Men's Clothing Forums banner

What's wrong with the shoulders of this jacket?

13K views 20 replies 9 participants last post by  WA  
#1 ·
I recently purchased some flannel sport coats from BB. Regent size 46. One of the reasons I bought them was because the fit seemed so perfect, except for a sleeve adjustment. I typically need a short, but the regular on the regent cut is as short as the shorts used to be, so it seemed perfect. So I bought a handful of them.

Well, it finally got cool this morning and I pulled out one of the flannel sport coats to wear. And it had this buckling on the sides of the shoulder that I've never seen in a coat before. I checked and all of the flannel sport coats have the problem to some degree.

Attached is a picture of the side view showing the problem and the front view. Has anyone seen this issue before? Is the coat the wrong size? Is it just the wrong cut in the shoulders for me? Is there anything I can do to fix it?
 

Attachments

#6 ·
Shoulder is too wide.
Pricey to fix.
Doesn't look too bad, IMO.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Pricey is in the eye of the beholder. Given the cost of the jacket, a small price to pay to make it wearable.

Besides, it's really not that costly or complicated for a good alterations tailor. I've had the same thing done on a few jackets and I've paid around $60. I don't know if that's a good or bad price, but I trust her, she does good work and I'm happy with the finished product.
 
#8 ·
If you are referring to the buckling, in the second picture, under the shoulder/sleeve seam at your deltoid area, that is the effect of "forward shoulder"; i.e., you rounded your shoulder blade forward a bit. The typical symptom is that you will feel tight at the front of your deltoid and loose at the back. It seems that there is an empty space right behind your deltoid area.
The armhole may be a bit tight for you, but not too much.

Try moving your shoulder back and forth with jacket on to see if that can be minimized. If at your resting posture you can still observe this, you might need a bigger armhole of the same size jacket (i.e. BB Madison cut).

Alteration for the "forward shoulder" can be costly.

Forward shoulder is very common these days, especially with the smart phones...
 
#11 ·
If you are referring to the buckling, in the second picture, under the shoulder/sleeve seam at your deltoid area, that is the effect of "forward shoulder"; i.e., you rounded your shoulder blade forward a bit. The typical symptom is that you will feel tight at the front of your deltoid and loose at the back. It seems that there is an empty space right behind your deltoid area.
The armhole may be a bit tight for you, but not too much.

Try moving your shoulder back and forth with jacket on to see if that can be minimized. If at your resting posture you can still observe this, you might need a bigger armhole of the same size jacket (i.e. BB Madison cut).

Alteration for the "forward shoulder" can be costly.

Forward shoulder is very common these days, especially with the smart phones...
Moving the shoulder back and forth doesn't make any difference. I would try the Madison, but it doesn't seem BB makes a lot of sport coats in that cut. I may have to switch to another maker.
 
#12 ·
A larger armhole maybe best, but most often it wreaks the jacket (less freedom of movement). Sometimes the armhole is in the wrong place or angled wrong.

Forward shoulder means that the upper back needs to be wider and the upper front needs to be narrower. Shoulders roll forward curves the back and that curve needs extra cloth length. It also hollows out the front a little bit and the excess is removed to be rid of the pressure on front of the shoulder.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Another shoulder fail. This is the Lands End Chino Blazer traditional fit, 40S, on my average 5'8 frame. Shoulders look half decent from the front, but the side really shows the poor fit. Given it was unlined, I didn't think it would have shoulder pads, yet the shoulders are pretty well padded and stiff.

I gave it a shot because I like their shirts, it was on sale for $55 online and it is unlined.

Image
Image


Edit: yes, I usually wear shoes and tuck in my shirt when out and about.
 
#16 ·
Another shoulder fail. This is the Lands End Chino Blazer traditional fit on my average 5'8 frame. Shoulders look half decent from the front, but the side really shows the poor fit. Given it was unlined, I didn't think it would have shoulder pads, yet the shoulders are pretty well padded and stiff.
Gosh, I don't think that's too bad at all, and a steal at $55. Yes, maybe the sleeve is pitched ever so slightly forward (may only be on the right side), but especially for a chino fabric, casual jacket, it's a pretty minor thing. The only beef I have with some LE items such as this is that the fabric they use, be it wool or cotton, tends to be 'stiffer' than more expensive competition, which I've always attributed to them sourcing cheaper fabric.
 
#15 ·
I am not a tailor but I think there are two different possibilities here. If the shoulder is rolled forward it causes a divot along the back side of the upper arm. I think that is quite different from the first post where it appears the shoulder is too large (which might be fixed by opening the armhole).
 
#18 ·
@HanEyeAm, looking at your first picture, I am wondering if you realized that you posed in a sway-back posture as shown in this picture:

Image

Person on the left.

Your upper back is protruding backward while your shoulder move forward a bit. The front quarters are lifted up a bit because of this.

I am hoping that is not your natural stance, but it was something forced when picture was taken. Because if that was your natural stance, you might want to research on posture and how to correct it for your own benefit, not only for suit fitting but also for personal health.

In fact, since this jacket is a classic fit, it should fit you ok, if your posture supports it. In your second picture you seems not to stand that sway back and the front lower quarters have nice parallel vertical lines. That gives me hope that the jacket can fit you. You still have some little emptiness behind your deltoid, but that should be minimized once the posture is corrected.

Do some stretching exercise and pay attention to your posture can go a long way for suit fitting.
 
#21 ·
When looking at the two pictures one (profile) shows the bottom edge sloping up at quite an angle towards the front. So, balance is off among other cuts. The coat is not cut for this person at all.

The second picture shows the fronts parallel, and is the bottom edge, now, level?

None of this makes since.