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What to wear to the tailor?

8.4K views 26 replies 20 participants last post by  bwep  
#1 ·
I have an appointment tomorrow at Gieves and Hawkes in London, I start a new job in a couple of weeks a good payrise and I want to treat myself - I have many suits but are all off the peg so I am unfamilier with Saville Row proceedure.

Can I turn up in jeans? do I need to wear a shirt and tie? will a shirt and tie be provided? I am really looking forward to the appointment, I want it to be just right.

Thanks.
 
#3 ·
You can turn up in whatever you like as they'll put one of their suits on you to help them with taking the measurements.
They're called 'master models'.
If you have a suit that you particularly like the cut / fit of, wear it so that you can show them what you like about it.
Maybe they can incorporate those features into your new suit.
 
#6 ·
I believe that you get better attention if you dress well for the tailor, perhaps to convey your sense of style. Wear the dress shirt. Most importantly, bring along the shoes you would wear with the trousers to be purchased. You are right if you are thinking that they will make some judgement based on how you appear, which is true almost everywhere. On one occasion, I presented at Paul Stuart to look at suits, and the fellow said, right to my face, "...nice looking gentleman, but your pants are too tight!" Bill
 
#7 · (Edited)
Wear your best fitting suit, dress shirt with the cuffs where you think they should be, dress shoes. Theoretically the tie is a option- but you are wearing a suit. The point being that the measurements the tailor takes will be in relation to what you're wearing- sleeve length in relation to your cuffs, pant length in relation to the break on your shoes etc. Wearing your best fitting suit ( esp. trousers) takes alot of the guesswork out of figuring rise etc.. They'll give you a jacket to try, but that'll be looked at in relation to what you're wearing as well. When I first went to Chris D. , I had a structured suit dropped off to him for alterations and wore an unstructured suit to the measurement appointment. The shoulder size was 2 3/4" different between the two jackets. ( he measured both). My actual size was between them.
 
#8 ·
Wear your best fitting suit, dress shirt with the cuffs where you think they should be, dress shoes. Theoretically the tie is a option- but you are wearing a suit. The point being that the measurements the tailor takes will be in relation to what you're wearing- sleeve length in relation to your cuffs, pant length in relation to the break on your shoes etc. Wearing your best fitting suit ( esp. trousers) takes alot of the guesswork out of figuring rise etc.. They'll give you a jacket to try, but that'll be looked at in relation to what you're wearing as well. When I first went to Chris D. , I had a structured suit dropped off to him for alterations and wore an unstructured suit to the measurement appointment. The shoulder size was 2 3/4" different between the two jackets. ( he measured both). My actual size was between them.
I agree with you, I suppose that as I am in a formal establishment then I ought to present myself properly - business attire it is then.

I never considered that one's shoulders could be different sizes!
 
#9 ·
I agree with you, I suppose that as I am in a formal establishment then I ought to present myself properly - business attire it is then.

I never considered that one's shoulders could be different sizes!
Surprised me too!
 
#11 ·
For the first appointment, it doesn't really matter (beyond wanting to create a decent first impression - which out of simple common courtesy I think most people would). I agree that wearing a good fitting suit certainly helps, but they can manage even you don't wear one. For fittings, my advice is to wear a well-fitting dress shirt (with a sleeve length you like) and a pair of dress shoes with a heel similar to what you wear with suits.
 
#12 ·
Why not ring and ask?

When I met Peter Moore for my suit, I apologised in advance for turning up in jeans (straight from the ad agency where I work) and he was politeness personified and went out of his way to stress it didn't matter to him. Gieves and Thieves might be the same.
 
#13 ·
Holdfast said:
For fittings, my advice is to wear a well-fitting dress shirt (with a sleeve length you like) and a pair of dress shoes with a heel similar to what you wear with suits.
Sound advice. Though, to be honest, all you really need to pay attention to are the shoes. We can typically work around everything else. You'll find that the tailor will move your waistband or push up the excess in the arm's scye, this is all standard protocol for obtaining accurate measurements.

A word to the wise: tailors trained in Asian methods are a little more "touch feely" than those from the English tradition. It's nothing absurd - it's just necessary to get accurate measurements. Asians are less put off by human contact, so the pattern drafting system reflects that cultural difference. If you are averse to being touched by another human, you may want to evaluate your comfort level before proceeding into custom make.

BTW... this is why MTM has a foothold in the marketplace. Some Consumers are averse to human contact.
 
#15 ·
Sound advice. Though, to be honest, all you really need to pay attention to are the shoes. We can typically work around everything else.
I learnt this by experience - I once had to go back to get a pair of trousers rehemmed because I wore boots with a higher heel than usual. :pic12337:

i turned up at a certain tailors in burberry shirt ,burberry baseball cap , baggy jeans , nikes and lots and lots of bling.
then when i had my 'foot in the door' i pulled them off chippendale style
I'm not sure which half of the sentence disturbs me more. :icon_smile_big:
 
#17 · (Edited)
Shoes you intend to wear with the garment. And, don't come in with tight pants. For example, lets say you are having pants made to wear with belt, tight pants might not allow you to set the waistband at the most comfortable place, because the most comfortable place might be higher, the crotch should also be set at the most comfortable place. These are three or four different measureing reasons for your comfort.

Some tailors like to take some measurements with a jacket on, and others think it is a waste of time. As one person said over 2 inches difference, not to mention padding differences.

Edit- Sleeves with deep armholes don't work. If you are going to pay that kind of money for a coat (tailored) then have at least one shirt with high armholes to go with it. High armholes is the underpart of the armhole, which makes the whole armhole smaller.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Holdfast said:
I learnt this by experience - I once had to go back to get a pair of trousers rehemmed because I wore boots with a higher heel than usual.
You're lucky it was only the trouser hem affected. Typically, I find other alterations to the posture as well. For example, the neck will pitch differently to accommodate the "wedge" of the shoe. As such, this can affect the placement of the collar (e.g. rise) and the grout line (what y'all refer to as "gorge").

WA said:
And, don't come in with tight pants.
Ditto. No tight pants. If that's all you own, then we'll measure you in the fitting room in your boxers or briefs.

Oh... you should know I only say these things because I have experienced something to requires I do: Please wear undergarments. Even if you plan to wear your new trousers "commando", boxers are a close facsimile to get through the measurement session.

WA said:
Some tailors like to take some measurements with a jacket on, and others think it is a waste of time.
I prefer to dispense with the jacket, unless you're being fitted for an overcoat or want to illustrate a feature you're keen on.

Generally speaking, I like to take measurements based on the foundation garment. In other words, if making a shirt, then I need measurements over the undergarment. If making a vest, then I need measurements over the shirt. If making a jacket, then I need measurements over shirt & vest, etc.
 
#19 ·
Yes I agree you should wear your best fitting suit. That way they can incorporate the things that work well on that suit while improving on the cut. You can also discuss what you like and don't like about it and how best you might go about improving on it. None of this is possible if you go in slobwear.

I also agree you should wear the shirt with the sleeve length you will be wearing with your suits and also your usual dress shoes with your standard heels.
 
#21 ·
I will the echo the sentiment regarding wearing a suit. Even if the tailor claims it makes no difference, it is a sign of respect. When I was wandering up and down Savile Row, I always made it a point to wear a suit.

Now, some things to think about when dressing for the tailor:

-The heel of the shoe should be taken into consideration.

-Wear a coat you wear often, as you will be more prone to carry yourself in your natural posture in a coat you are used to wearing.

-Make sure the shirt you are wearing reflects the average collar height you prefer.

-Let us know what you choose.
 
#22 ·
Must wear:

favourite dress shoes
dress shirt that fits properly

Should wear:
jacket that fits properly

Anything else is up to you.

I find myself choosing my clothes very carefully when I go to my tailor, because I can feel him sizing them up when I walk in. He is not doing this to judge me or criticize me, but because clothes are his living and his passion and he can't help it. One glance and he knows the quality of the cut, fabrics, fit, and construction of the clothes I have on. Sometimes he will point out flaws in the clothes I am wearing, not to be critical, but to contrast it with superior features in his products and how he will make sure those flaws do not exist in the clothes I commission from him. It is disconcerting at times, although I know he means well.
 
#23 ·
I will the echo the sentiment regarding wearing a suit. Even if the tailor claims it makes no difference, it is a sign of respect. When I was wandering up and down Savile Row, I always made it a point to wear a suit.

Now, some things to think about when dressing for the tailor:

-The heel of the shoe should be taken into consideration.

-Wear a coat you wear often, as you will be more prone to carry yourself in your natural posture in a coat you are used to wearing.

-Make sure the shirt you are wearing reflects the average collar height you prefer.
-Let us know what you choose.
Unless I go home before the appointment which is unlikely I have opted for a Grey Pinstripe SB suit from Gieves and Hawkes from the RTW collection 2 years ago. A plain white dress shirt from Thomas Pink - its one of my favourites with plain gold stud cuff links, plain red woven silk tie, with black lace up Patrick Cox round toes.

Black Otc's and for the formality of the situation red sock suspenders.
 
#24 ·
What an experience, have spent a wonderfull afternoon with a gentleman by the name of Chris, really helpful.

As advised they gave me a control jacket and took it from there, taking full measurements including collar as I mentioned having some shirting done aswell.

We then discussed over a coffee potential fabrics and colours. Ive gone for somthing fairly standard that would be suitable for the office as well as a function, single breasted 3 button side vented In a tropical material. Ive gone for Navy, a timeless classic and will never offend anybody. Ive gone for a kingfisher green lining inside the jacket, trousers are to be fully lined.

I am so excited, should be ready in an unbelievable 7 weeks am back for another fitting in 2 weeks.

Chris did say for those of you still interested that whether you wear a shirt and tie is entirely your own option, one can be provided but always, always wear your dress shoes.

Glad I did!
 
#25 ·
It makes the tailor's job so much more difficult when we have to measure someone wearing jeans and a casual shirt. Hence making the chances of a bad first fitting more likely. Even when someone has a suit on that does not fit, it gives the tailor a guide line.

I regulary go to shows appertaining to shooting. These guys rarely turn up in a suit. When I measure for a suit or shooting outfit I often rely more on my experience and eye than I do on the tape measure.