For jacket sleeves, assume you need to leave 1" tucked underneath. So if there is 3" folded underneath then you can realistically expect a tailor to be able to lengthen them by 2".

For pant cuffs, a simple guideline is that you need to double the size of the cuff and add an inch to fold the hem around to the inside. So if you wanted 1.75" cuffs with a 30" inseam, you need 34.5" total (30+1.75+1.75+1). For a standard hem, you just need 1" to fold to the underside.

 

Actually my tailor has added material to the end of the sleeve so that he can give me the maximum length. I only lose about a quarter of an inch of the jacket material where it is folded under and the added material goes up and is sewn under the lining.

 

In theory an alterations tailor can lengthen things. In practice I have found it always results in a line where the alteration was made — a line that stubbornly resists all forms of pressing.

Going the other direction is infinitely preferable.

 

You can never lengthen things as much as you'd think. If it's a case of under an inch, I feel safe buying. I've rarely had a jacket let out an inch or more and turn out well.

 

As long as the shoulders fit, most of the other parts of the jacket can be altered. The costs add up quick though so be careful. Length of coat can also be pricey. Slimming the waist and bringing in the chest and shortening/lengthening the sleeves are all relatively reasonable alterations.

 

In theory an alterations tailor can lengthen things. In practice I have found it always results in a line where the alteration was made - a line that stubbornly resists all forms of pressing.

Going the other direction is infinitely preferable.

Agreed. I've learned this from a couple tailors. Stitch marks or fold marks will be present on poplin and corduroy garments if you let them out. Wool doesn't present this problem. In general, it's better to have garments taken in than let out.

I try to be very strict with shoulder and chest measurements with items I see on eBay or the Exchange. I'll deviate by 1" in the chest only if I think I might wear a sweater under a blazer or sport coat.

EDIT: moleskin pants are another item that can't be let out without stitch marks remaining.

 

I have seldom relied on measurements for eBay postings, I don't trust them. I only bid on things I know will fit me by asking for the size on the label. For example I know I can wear Southwick Dorset or Hickey Freeman Canterbury 44L very comfortably with little alteration. I always know if the measurements are a little off I can usually "un-alter" whatever was done to the garment.

On the other hand I once bought a HF sportcoat with my "correct" measurements only to find it had been altered from a 48L so nothing was in proportion.

It's just my experience and it seems to work for me.

 

I have seldom relied on measurements for eBay postings, I don't trust them. I only bid on things I know will fit me by asking for the size on the label. For example I know I can wear Southwick Dorset or Hickey Freeman Canterbury 44L very comfortably with little alteration. I always know if the measurements are a little off I can usually "un-alter" whatever was done to the garment.

On the other hand I once bought a HF sportcoat with my "correct" measurements only to find it had been altered from a 48L so nothing was in proportion.

It's just my experience and it seems to work for me.

A better solution to this is to buy from sellers that know how to measure.

 

Adding on to this topic, what can be done to shirts if anything at all? Can sleeves be lengthened/shortened? Can the body be taken in?

 

2. Can anything be done with pit-to-pit width? Can you have the tailor take this in or out by an inch? Also, how much would that change the actual shape of the jacket? Let's say that you have this really neat jacket that is cut pretty straight from armpit to bottom edge (no waist suppression), but is a little too full through the chest--would you be sacrificing shape by taking in the chest? Or can you take the whole thing in by equal amounts along the entire seam and retain the shape?

I would really like to know this one as well. My tailor seemed hesitant to do work on the chest piece of one of my jackets, but I think that was more because she didn't think it needed work.

 

On the plaid Southwick jacket I've posted a few times my tailor took the back in to make the chest less full. It disrupted the pattern a little in the back but it's not something anyone would notice but me.

I would really like to know this one as well. My tailor seemed hesitant to do work on the chest piece of one of my jackets, but I think that was more because she didn't think it needed work.

 

Adding on to this topic, what can be done to shirts if anything at all? Can sleeves be lengthened/shortened? Can the body be taken in?

The sleeves can be shortened but not lengthened so you're better off with a shirt that is too long than too short. And I believe the side seams can be brought in though I've never had that done.

 

In theory an alterations tailor can lengthen things. In practice I have found it always results in a line where the alteration was made - a line that stubbornly resists all forms of pressing.

Going the other direction is infinitely preferable.

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What he said. I've stopped buying anything shorter and will only buy something longer or perfect. Too many disappointments.

 

A good tailor can do almost anything, but the cost may be prohibitive.

When having clothing altered, keep in mind that if the alteration involves exposing fabric that has been unexposed for many years, the newly exposed fabric may not match the fabric that has been exposed to wear, dry-cleaning, sunlight, aging, etc. The alteration may or may not be noticeable.

 

Thanks for all the replies, gentlemen. Keep them coming!

 

A good tailor can take in the chest on a jacket, at least a little. Letting out, no - there's almost never enough seam allowance for that in the chest.

 

My tailor seemed hesitant to do work on the chest piece of one of my jackets, but I think that was more because she didn't think it needed work.

She's probably right if she thinks it didn't need it. I had an alterations guy who taught me that sometimes a jacket is good enough and isn't worth altering.

I recommend researching how suit and sports jackets are assembled - once you see how they are made, whether manually by a tailor sitting there hunched up, or mass-produced in a factory by machines, then you'll realize why only minor adjustments can and should be made. Most manufacturers are expecting when their jackets get to retailers that only changes to the waist and sleeve length will be made, and therefore design and assemble their jackets accordingly without enough material to adjust anything else.

 

What about khakis that would need a little more length? I picked up several pair of Bills recently that fit well in every way, but need maybe half an inch or so let out of the hem. The material is there, but my concern is a visible line where the old hem used to be. Is it worth sending them to be let out or will I likely be disappointed by the results? Sorry for the slight derail, wasn't sure where to put this.

 

You will be disappointed. Cotton will always show a line, and it'll never go away.

 

You will be disappointed. Cotton will always show a line, and it'll never go away.

That was my thought. Thanks. I guess these will remain "house khakis".

 

Apparently not much at a certain reputable store in Washington, DC ...

 

You will be disappointed. Cotton will always show a line, and it'll never go away.

If there's enough let to make a cuff, and for the cuff to cover up the line, perhaps that would work? Rarely that much let nowadays, but I've found some khakis with 3"+ underneath.

 

If there's enough let to make a cuff, and for the cuff to cover up the line, perhaps that would work? Rarely that much let nowadays, but I've found some khakis with 3"+ underneath.

I've had this done, but was lucky to have just enough extra fabric -- unlikely most of the time.