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Vass Shoes: An Appreciation for the Austro-Hungarian Tradition of Shoemaking

7.2K views 7 replies 4 participants last post by  Watchman  
#1 ·
Gentlemen,

I trust this post finds you in good health.

Well, after a decade of curiosity, research and obsessing I finally took the plunge and commissioned the shoemakers in Budapest, Hungary to make me a pair of oxfords.

And, they lived up to all the hype!

Why did I torture myself with anticipation for so long? Simply put; sizing. Everyone knows Vass are notoriously difficult to size. So, with an awareness and hesitation I messaged the delightful and kind “Vivien” and began my journey!

She was very helpful and suggested I order a test fitting pair. I only paid the price for a pair of “subs” plus shipping costs.

I ended up ordering 2 different samples and finally decided to have 1.5 cm of girth added to the elegant and gorgeous U Last.

The process of shipping sample fitting pairs back and forth began last August 22’. The finished product arrived this week.

My advice to everyone is to exercise patience in your sartorial journey in Vass footwear. They are genuinely handmade. Hand lasted and welted. And while they represent an incredible value, they’re not cheap.

Now for the pics:

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The specs are as follows:

Vass V-Tip Italian Oxford
U Last
Gold Museum Calf
French Tips and Topy added to heel and forefront

When the shoes initially arrived, they were slightly roomy. So, I added a thin leather insole to make up for the room. The fit seems nearly perfect now.

What strikes me about these shoes is just how robust they are. For elegant balmorals, they are hefty.

Cheers!
 
#2 ·
Gentlemen,

I trust this post finds you in good health.

Well, after a decade of curiosity, research and obsessing I finally took the plunge and commissioned the shoemakers in Budapest, Hungary to make me a pair of oxfords.

And, they lived up to all the hype!

Why did I torture myself with anticipation for so long? Simply put; sizing. Everyone knows Vass are notoriously difficult to size. So, with an awareness and hesitation I messaged the delightful and kind “Vivien” and began my journey!

She was very helpful and suggested I order a test fitting pair. I only paid the price for a pair of “subs” plus shipping costs.

I ended up ordering 2 different samples and finally decided to have 1.5 cm of girth added to the elegant and gorgeous U Last.

The process of shipping sample fitting pairs back and forth began last August 22’. The finished product arrived this week.

My advice to everyone is to exercise patience in your sartorial journey in Vass footwear. They are genuinely handmade. Hand lasted and welted. And while they represent an incredible value, they’re not cheap.

Now for the pics:

View attachment 95816

View attachment 95817

View attachment 95818

View attachment 95819

The specs are as follows:

Vass V-Tip Italian Oxford
U Last
Gold Museum Calf
French Tips and Topy added to heel and forefront

When the shoes initially arrived, they were slightly roomy. So, I added a thin leather insole to make up for the room. The fit seems nearly perfect now.

What strikes me about these shoes is just how robust they are. For elegant balmorals, they are hefty.

Cheers!
Congratulations on your shoes!

I was in Budapest a bunch of years ago, so I went to the Vass shop and tried on various pairs of boots/shoes. A U.S. size 8D, I settled on the F last in a slightly smaller size (euro 40.5) because the F runs a bit large. When my cordovan chukkas arrived, they were great. Over the next year or so, I ordered four more pairs of boots - all were flawless and fit well. Considering how often people mention the Vass "charm" aspect - inconsistency in fit, among other things - I am very fortunate...as are you, Watchman!
 
#4 ·
Yes, beautiful indeed. May I ask which lasts? Seems P2 for the top pair and F for the bottom?

How long have you had them? And, how are they wearing compared to other makers?

TIA and Cheers!
 
#5 ·
I believe you are correct on the lasts. I bought both of these from No Man Walks Alone as I had a credit. I have owned both for about three or four years. Honestly, I have o my worn the second pair a few times. These became my most formal shoe as I no longer own any black shoes at the moment. As a result with vivid they have seen little wear. The first pair is much more casual and I have worn maybe a few dozen times. These were both comfortable out of the box. Perhaps not as comfortable as my EG's but still not fully worn in. I briefly had another pair in museum calf but determined that look was not for me. My dress shoe collection is now only maybe eight pairs and while I never say never, good chance I will keep it there. When I started going to thrift stores I had dozens, mainly AE and some older florsheims. Over time I moved most of those for a higher quality, more versatile group.
 
#6 ·
My current dress shoe collection, in ascending order of formality.
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Looks like nine pairs. I of course own more shoes, more casual top siders, boots etc but I don't consider any of them dress shoes. I feel like this gives me good versatility for any situation I am likely to find myself in. If I suddenly found myself wearing formal suits or black tie, I would need to adjust up slightly.

Oh and before anyone asks, I have had my share of shell but find I prefer calf.
 
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#8 ·
It is good to see you back here Sir. These Fora are far more insightful and fulfilling when you are present. I must confess your Vass were my original inspiration.

Do you still have the wingtip oxfords with goyser welt in your collection?

Cheers!