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The Trad Test: A Guide for Noobs

13K views 38 replies 28 participants last post by  Trad-ish  
#1 ·
Folks new to trad frequently ask, "Is X trad?" A better question is "How trad is X?" and better still is "How trad is this whole outfit?"

If you're new to the Trad aesthetic or curious about whether what you're wearing is trad, here's an easy quiz you can take to grade any particular day's outfit. Go down the following lists, give yourself a point for every item on the first list your outfit satisfies, and take away a point for things on the second list.

NB: The first list is composed of things that are of the essence of trad. The second list comprises things that are the antithesis of trad. There's a lot that falls in between, including things that Trad folks wear but that are common to other styles of dress.

Add a point:
- Sack jacket (no darts)
- 3/2 button stance
- Natural shoulders
- Plain-front pants
- Cuffs
- Clothes made in USA (one point for each item)
- Button-down collar
- Oxford cloth
- Tweed
- Madras
- Nantucket Reds
- Shetland sweater
- Penny loafers, bit loafers, longwings, saddle shoes, bucks
- Repp, madder, or madras ties

Subtract a point:
- Pleats
- Darts
- No cuffs
- Non-3/2 button stance
- Highly padded shoulders
- Side vents
- Widely spread collars
- Lightweight sweaters (merino, e.g.)
- Square-toed shoes
- Man-made fibers

Scoring:
<2 points: Not trad
2-5 points: Marginally trad
5-8 points: Mostly trad
8-10 points: Solidly trad
10+: Are you Harris himself?

Today my outfit is not trad. +1 for plain front pants, +3 for suit, shirt, and shoes made in the USA; -1 for darts, -1 for non-3/2, -1 for no cuffs, -1 for spread collar. Total = 0 points.
 
#4 ·
Can we get bonus points? Grosgrain watch band? Argyle socks? Harrington jackets? Should I be taking the preppy test? Am I in the right room?

My outfit today gets a 2 by your list and the pinpoint oxford button-down is doing all the heavy lifting.
 
#6 ·
Three today: Saddle shoes, shetland, purple/white pinpoint BD. Of course, I'm not at all trad if you take into account the black jeans. :devil:
 
#9 ·
I am at an 8 most days:
3 points for a Brooks OCBD
3 points for flat front, cuffed Bills Khakis
2 points for Alden LHS or LWB

When I add my tweed jacket, that's +5 (+6 if I wear a tie).

I don't even own a single thing in the subtract list :)
 
#10 ·
I think square toed shoes should be an instant disqualification.
Yes.

Scored a 6 today. Also grosgrain watch band (solid navy today), so 7 if that's added. Jeans? Pocket square? Emblematic tie? Needlepoint belt should be a plus also. Plus 5 if you're wearing something monogrammed by your grandfather. What about my vintage Jeep Wagoneer I drove to work in?
 
#12 ·
If an extra point is added for a grosgrain watch band, then I stand at 11 for the day.

I would suggest additional choices based on the season, such as "sockless" in summer or embroidered corduroy trousers in the winter. More than .5 points should be added for inherited items that are from list one and a deduction of at least 2 points should included for inherited items from list 2.

Best, Ross
 
#14 ·
Needed this distraction after a long stint in court today! I think I scored an eleven as well - Southwick 3/2 sack; BB ocbd; BB repp tie; Bill's flat front; Alden LHS. Lost a point for no cuffs, however, I never cuff (or iron) my Bill's.

Actually, maybe I only scored a ten as my socks (Gold Toe) may have a fabric content that includes a completely man-made fiber or two :)
 
#18 ·
I'm not sure I like this. I think Trad is more than the sum of the parts. Many outfits, esp. those that are trendy at the moment, can score well enough, but fail the eyeball test.
Yep -- you could open a spread in a J. Crew catalog and get a six or seven, but that doesn't make it any more trad.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Dare I suggest that my post of two days ago might have inspired this thread? Am I the noob that broke the trad-camels back?

And yes, I have square-toed shoes. And yes, you all dislike them very much. Thanks.

Posted two days ago in Trad, what are you wearing today? Using your rubric, I think I am a -50 or so, although I am wearing my great-grandfather's monogram cufflinks.


I am just beginning to try to understand "trad". I posted this same outfit in the fashion forum earlier, but have not received any comments (not that I asked for any), so I am wondering if this outfit is trad at all? I am guessing that my contrast collar/cuff shirt, slim-fit pants and ecco shoes are not, but that the rest is or could be? These suppositions are based upon my current research into "what is trad".

Is my beard trad? I'm guessing that my floors are trad (110 year old pine)?

Thanks - Warren

_______________________________________________

What I wore today:

Shoes: Ecco Barcelona in walnut with matching belt
Pants: Calvin Klein slim-fit; 100% wool, slightly shiny herringbone gray
Jacket: Jack Victor for Markshale; 100% Cashmere by Loro Piana
Shirt: Brioni - pale yellow with white collar and french cuffs
Tie: Ralph Lauren 100% wool
Cuff links: my great grandfathers simple monogram links




Last edited by wrwhiteknight; October 24th, 2012 at 22:57.​
 
#21 ·
I need to check my closet and see if my camel jacket is still there. I would appear to have and indentical one. Just as an aside, that jacket looks great with a dark olive green pant, or at leat it is my favourite combination.


Now to me, that tie seems just a touch long. It appears you have a reasonably long torso and it might improve the look just a bit. I prefer a length mid belt to belt top. I quite like that belt colour.

While the pine is an excellent accompaniment to the trad look it is really the beadboard on the the staircase that defines it. That and the smell of saltwater and seaweed in the air, but that might be hard to pull off in Kingston.
 
#23 ·
I'm not sure I like this. I think Trad is more than the sum of the parts. Many outfits, esp. those that are trendy at the moment, can score well enough, but fail the eyeball test.
+1...but for a different reason. Generally I find Orgetorix's blogging and most of his posts offered herein to border on pure sartorial genius and the present offering is no exception. However, the level of effort and forethought required to apply the suggested process in rating the success of each day's wardrobing effort (Trad or not) seems almost the antithesis of Trad... just seems like too much planning and post dressing evaluation effort is required to make it work. But then...maybe?? ;) Orgetorix, have you considered writing a book? If not, you really should!
 
#24 ·
Dare I suggest that my post of two days ago might have inspired this thread? Am I the noob that broke the trad-camels back?

And yes, I have square-toed shoes. And yes, you all dislike them very much. Thanks.

Posted two days ago in Trad, what are you wearing today? Using your rubric, I think I am a -50 or so, although I am wearing my great-grandfather's monogram cufflinks.


I am just beginning to try to understand "trad". I posted this same outfit in the fashion forum earlier, but have not received any comments (not that I asked for any), so I am wondering if this outfit is trad at all? I am guessing that my contrast collar/cuff shirt, slim-fit pants and ecco shoes are not, but that the rest is or could be? These suppositions are based upon my current research into "what is trad".

Is my beard trad? I'm guessing that my floors are trad (110 year old pine)?

Thanks - Warren



I'm fairly new to defining what I wear in the "trad" sense as well (in that I didn't know until recently what I had been buying all along was a "thing" with all the implied "do's" and "don'ts") so take this for what it's worth: The jacket is dope, the pants are fine, but the tie seems a bit wide. Who made it? Also, I generally think of contrast collar shirts as very formal wear which doesn't quite jive with marginal casualness of your outfit (this board is also probably the only place in the universe where "jacket and tie" and "casual" are used in the same sentence). The colors go together nicely however. I'm overlooking the shoes because...is that a black belt with those brown shoes?!?!? Why is there blood coming out of my ears??!​
 
#26 ·
+1...but for a different reason. Generally I find Orgetorix's blogging and most of his posts offered herein to border on pure sartorial genius and the present offering is no exception. However, the level of effort and forethought required to apply the suggested process in rating the success of each day's wardrobing effort (Trad or not) seems almost the antithesis of Trad... just seems like too much planning and post dressing evaluation effort is required to make it work. But then...maybe?? ;) Orgetorix, have you considered writing a book? If not, you really should!
The OP has directed this towards the new-to-trad folks. It is certainly understood that the veteran trads are deeply engrained with the trad philosophy (if I may...) and I personally think its a fun method to validate or verify that newbie efforts are aligning properly...Unfortunately, I'm a 3 right now, 4 with the Timex, 5 with the Leather Man belt!