Men's Clothing Forums banner

Sweater Styles. Use?

9K views 21 replies 10 participants last post by  Bjorn  
#1 · (Edited)
With Automn approaching in a few days, I was hoping we might get a quick tutorial going as to the different styles of sweaters and their use in sartorial matters.

Would this list be correct?

Suits (and Below): V-necks
Button Cardigans

Sports Jackets: 1/4 zips
Zip Cardigans
Crew Necks
 
#2 ·
I don't acknowledge the existence of most sweaters with zippers. Also, are these meant to suggest pairings or equivalences? Wearing a sports jacket with a half-zip is pretty bad -- like, '90s catalog bad. I guess I just don't see the point to them. Half-zips or quarter zips look like Patagonia Snap Ts to me. There's nothing wrong with those, but a "refined" version in merino wool doesn't quite cut it for me. Zip cardigans can be a useful thing to layer with, but I don't think they're very stylish, and I haven't owned one in years.

The way I see it, a v-neck sweater is inherently a little bit dressier than a crewneck, and works with dressier outfits. I suppose you could then go to cardigans, and then to crewnecks, but the sweater shape has less to do with formality than the material does. A shetland V-neck is more casual than a fine merino crewneck.

Also, I would be willing to wear a shetland crewneck with a casual suit. Gianni Agnelli seems to have occasionally worn a fine textured (maybe cashmere, he could afford it) crewneck with his navy business suits.
 
#4 ·
Actually I meant pairing.

I'm not sure I've even seen a half zip but I thought a 1/4 zip might go with a sport jacket.

I also thought a button down cardigan would be dressier than the V-neck.

Admittedly I left out fabric, fabric weight etc. I assumed big thick sweaters were meant to be worn without a coat/jacket due to bulkiness.



Hence the need for a tutorial.
 
#5 ·
I tend to pair sweaters with blazers/sport coats only and never with a suit (though an odd waist coat is fair game). A button-front cardigan is analogous to a waist coat and looks good under a sport coat. I personally don't wear v-necks but I think they look fine under a sport coat as well. A crewneck with a sport coat is a trad fall staple and one of my favorite pairings. It's also the warmest. Any other neck style doesn't pair well with a blazer or sport coat and wool sweaters with zippers are neither fish nor fowl, IMO.
 
#7 · (Edited)
I agree with others on their aversion to sweaters with zippers, although I had an argument with my brother about them a couple of years ago (he's also a clothes horse) and he was able to demonstrate to me that zippered sweaters went back much further in time than I had thought. I accept, though do not endorse, them as outdoor wear. They still have no place under a jacket.

I will disagree with those who say "v only" under suits or jackets. Several years ago, Paul Stuart ran a photo in their fall catalog showing a heathered-blue polo-necked sweater worn under a grey suit, over a shirt and tie. I thought it looked wonderful, as Paul Stuart's fall catalog photos usually do, and promptly copied the idea. I still do it a half dozen times each fall/winter, and have gotten a number of compliments. It's obviously a less formal look, but it has a nice layered compexity to it that appeals to me. I think it's sort of the sweater equivalent of lapels on a waistcoat.

FWIW, I generally eschew sweater vests. They tend to be made of bulky knits, added girth where I don't need it. I prefer tailored vests/waistcoats if I need a sleeveless garment, and a thin merino knit with sleeves if I need something softer/more casual. Besides, in America, sweater vests have rather risible Ned Flanders-type connotations.
 
#8 ·
I appear to have discovered yet another aversion of my fellow AAAC members. Zippered sweaters. Funny enough as 2 of mine are from the much venerated Brooks Brothers. I admit that I always enjoyed their use when out for a stroll in the morning or early evening as they allow for more/less exposure for the quickly changing temperature as the sun rises/sets. On some of the cooler mornings I'd throw on an odd sport jacket over it for added warmth.
 
#9 ·
I appear to have discovered yet another aversion of my fellow AAAC members. Zippered sweaters. Funny enough as 2 of mine are from the much venerated Brooks Brothers. I admit that I always enjoyed their use when out for a stroll in the morning or early evening as they allow for more/less exposure for the quickly changing temperature as the sun rises/sets. On some of the cooler mornings I'd throw on an odd sport jacket over it for added warmth.
There's nothing inherently wrong with a zipper on a sweater meant as technical outerwear (even then, I prefer snaps). It's the pairing with more refined materials and styling that I personally dislike. To me, a zippered wool cardigan is like a pair of 5-pocket wool flannels, complete with copper rivets and bar tacks.
 
#10 ·
To me, a zippered wool cardigan is like a pair of 5-pocket wool flannels, complete with copper rivets and bar tacks.
I'm sorry. You lost me there. Does this mean something along the lines of taking something semi-dressy and adding informal features?

I myself have never owned a zippered cardigan but I as I'm usually willing to experiment a bit I'm glad I caught onto this before "accidentally" buying one.
 
#11 ·
I will disagree with those who say "v only" under suits or jackets. Several years ago, Paul Stuart ran a photo in their fall catalog showing a heathered-blue polo-necked sweater worn under a grey suit, over a shirt and tie. I thought it looked wonderful, as Paul Stuart's fall catalog photos usually do, and promptly copied the idea. I still do it a half dozen times each fall/winter, and have gotten a number of compliments. It's obviously a less formal look, but it has a nice layered compexity to it that appeals to me. I think it's sort of the sweater equivalent of lapels on a waistcoat.
You mean polo neck like a sweater that's constructed like a polo shirt? I've heard English writers use "polo neck" to describe a turtleneck, too. I would wear a polo shirt-ish sweater under a jacket, if the collars worked right.
 
#12 ·
I'm sorry. You lost me there. Does this mean something along the lines of taking something semi-dressy and adding informal features?
Basically. Or, the converse: taking an "informal" item and making it "dressy" by tweaking the styling and materials. I gave the example of making a pair of jeans out of wool flannel which, as far as I know, doesn't actually exist. A real-life example would be Brooks Brothers' infamous quilted blazer. Granted, this is an extreme example, but the effect is the same. A quarter or full zip sweater under a suit or sport coat looks only slightly less odd to me than an actual technical fleece or down vest would in it's place. Given that most zip sweaters have additional "sporty" details like mock-necks, the incongruence is made even more apparent.
 
#13 · (Edited)
You mean polo neck like a sweater that's constructed like a polo shirt? I've heard English writers use "polo neck" to describe a turtleneck, too. I would wear a polo shirt-ish sweater under a jacket, if the collars worked right.
I can't imagine a turtleneck worn over a shirt and tie. I mean, I can, but how would I know the shirt and tie are there?
 
#14 ·
That was my question, too. I've seen guys wearing turtlenecks over shirts, which creates an odd impression of cuffs sticking out of the jacket sleeve.
 
#15 ·
#16 ·
For me, the no-sweaters-with-zippers preference comes from a no-modern-with-classic place, rather than a rule about formality. Exposed zippers look "technical" to me. Sweaters are classic, not technical. If you need something technical enough to justify a zipper, then just wear fleece.
 
#17 ·
I have plenty of full zip and 1/4 zip sweaters.

J crew at the low end and LP and Brunello Cucinelli at the high end.

I like them because they are excellent layering pieces and the zipper placket is usually covered up by fabric anyway.

I also enjoy button cardigans and shawls but these have been hard to come by before the last few seasons.

And 5 pocket flannel pants absolutely do exist. And have for years.
 
#20 ·
Is a v-neck tank top not the dressiest item of knitwear? It certainly appears to be the most practical and stylish when worn with a jacket, or even a casual suit.

Zipped jumpers are not such a good look, most especially some of the rather feminine styles which seem to be the rage as streetwear in England currently. A sort of cross between the christmas jumper and a snood.

Turtle necks too are redolent with negative connotation. I cannot quite 'put my finger on' the reason currently but imagine that other members will appreciate the sentiment.
 
#21 ·
#22 ·
I have plenty of full zip and 1/4 zip sweaters.

J crew at the low end and LP and Brunello Cucinelli at the high end.

I like them because they are excellent layering pieces and the zipper placket is usually covered up by fabric anyway.

I also enjoy button cardigans and shawls but these have been hard to come by before the last few seasons.

And 5 pocket flannel pants absolutely do exist. And have for years.
If you are layering with cucinelli sweaters it can probably look pretty damn good. Layering in that fashion is what I would consider more high end Italian style casual wear, which is the best kind, of course.