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Suit brand hierarchy, what's the difference?

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70K views 52 replies 27 participants last post by  pkincy  
#1 ·
Forgive me for what I'm sure are silly questions. New to the suit game.

I'm in the sub $1000 market. Would love to get two suits that I can wear on a regular basis for that price as long as I'm not waisting my money.

Sounds to me that the tiers of suits from least to best quality go:
1. Jos. A Bank/Men's Wearhouse
2. Suit Supply (none near me...order online?)
3. Brooks Brothers
4. Expensive

Am I paying for longevity when I go up each tier, or am I simply paying for style and fit?
 
#3 ·
I’m relatively new to the game, but moving up from JAB to Brooks Brothers is like moving to AE in shoes. You are getting a much better quality product that will last and just look better. I don’t wear suits much anymore, but daily wear slacks/sport coats. I recently upgraded from some JAB coats to a Hickey Freeman and a Samuelsohn. The fully canvassed jackets fit much better and the fabric quality is much nicer. I also have a Hart Shaffner Marx coat that, while only half canvassed, is still better than the JAB coats.

I would determine how much you. Want to spend on a suit and buy the best you can. With sales at Brooks Brothers and Nordstrom, for example, you can get a nicer suit.


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#4 ·
I will second the mentioning of Samuelsohn. If you keep your eye out on Saks or Saks Off Fifth you should easily be able to pick up a suit for under 1k. In fact earlier this year I seem to recall a fellow member bought a few around $300 ish on discount at Saks. If you have a fairly easily attainable size and you can find something similar in price I don’t think you could do much better than Samuelsohn.
 
#30 ·
I will second the mentioning of Samuelsohn. If you keep your eye out on Saks or Saks Off Fifth you should easily be able to pick up a suit for under 1k. In fact earlier this year I seem to recall a fellow member bought a few around $300 ish on discount at Saks. If you have a fairly easily attainable size and you can find something similar in price I don't think you could do much better than Samuelsohn.
Thanks!
 
#5 ·
Samuelsohn makes for Saks Fifth Ave. and during their F&F sale, you can get them for 25% off, not to mention other times when they are discounted. Mind you, this is for RTW and I don't think it applies to their made to measure program.

If you absolutely, positively need it now, then you can usually find a good deal at Brooks Brothers. If you can wait, I will endorse the Sammy option above.
 
#7 ·
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll check out Samuelsohn and maybe some others.

My major concern is longevity though. Was worth it to me to get the AE's because they'll last so much longer. If I'm going to spend more than double what I would at Men's Wearhouse, am I going to get twice the life out of them?

If not, I'd rather buy a couple suits from Men's Wearhouse with a decent enough fit. I know there are other factors, but at this point in life I really need to be frugal.
 
#8 ·
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll check out Samuelsohn and maybe some others.

My major concern is longevity though. If I'm going to spend more than double what I would at Men's Wearhouse, am I going to get twice the life out of them?

If not, I'd rather buy a couple suits from Men's Wearhouse with a decent enough fit.
Fit should always be one of your highest concerns. A well fitting cheaper suit can and often will look better than a more expensive poorly fitting garment. If you move high enough up in their model line hierarchy both JAB and MW offer a half canvassed jacket. These should last you several years if not abused and you limit your dry cleaning. A fully canvassed garment (Samuelsohn & Hickey Freeman) has no glue/adhesive in it and will generally hold the test of time a little better.
 
#9 ·
The answers above are superb. Let me explicitly advise you against going with SuitSupply. Leave the skin-tight pants to Superman and Batman.

You are in the market for two workhorse suits, but aside from asking about brands that you should check out, you didn't mention the colors you should get. So just to be on the safe side (you did mention you are new to the world of suits) let me answer a question you didn't ask: With regard to your first two suits, one of them should be solid navy blue, the other solid charcoal grey. Perhaps you already suspected this, but it doesn't hurt to be sure.
 
#10 ·
I second what Jgarner said about fit. And don't trust the salesman at BB or Saks regarding the matter (some at BB are ok, others, well...). I recommend that you educate yourself about proper fit on this board before going in to buy the suit, and stick to your guns when the salesman tells you that the coat shouldn't cover your tail, or that it should be skin tight!
 
#11 ·
Thanks for the replies. I'm new to suits in that I've never tried to know what I was doing before. Just relied on the salesman. Now that I know better, I look at my suits in disappointment. Want to get my first suits that actually fit right.

Didn't know suit supply was on the leaner side with their pants. If that's the case, I'll steer clear! Finding pants that are roomy enough in the posterior is always my struggle. As for the colors, we're on the same page. Charcoal, then on to Navy.

Time-wise, I'm in no big hurry. Probably around Christmas time (or just after if there are better sales). Just want to know where to spend my money.
 
#12 ·
One thing I will mention is that Samuelsohn, like most reputable makers, has several different models or cuts. The ones sold at Saks are on the slimmer side but are not overly slim like some of the nonsense I see being sold at Suit Supply.

Hickey Freeman has an excellent sale at the end of the season. Their Beacon fit is a pretty standard fit.

To touch on one other thing, I doubt there is a one to one ratio of each dollar spent versus increased longevity. A full canvas garment will be better made but I doubt it will last twice as long. On the other hand you'll have access to some really excellent fabrics and a variety of models that will fit you better than the one size fits all version at MW.

Brooks isn't all bad if you can find something that fits. Their made in the USA suits are made by Southwick and they are often in VBC fabric, which is an excellent mill.
 
#14 ·
One thing I will mention is that Samuelsohn, like most reputable makers, has several different models or cuts. The ones sold at Saks are on the slimmer side but are not overly slim like some of the nonsense I see being sold at Suit Supply.

Hickey Freeman has an excellent sale at the end of the season. Their Beacon fit is a pretty standard fit..
I'm not a slim guy and my two coats I purchased were a Saks Sammy and a Beacon HF. Both fit well and weren't overly slim as CLT notes. I'm more a 43R so I got a 44R and tailored it down. If you want to see pictures, I've posted the fits in here for comments. If you are looking at these brands that might give you an idea of looks on a non-model body. [emoji4]

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#16 ·
I have experience with both JAB and Brooks Brothers and although Brooks is definitely a better suit, unless you are going with the Golden Fleece line you are just getting an overpriced, half-canvass suit.

I would recommend Hart Shaffner and Marx over the Brooks Brothers 1818 line. It is also half-canvass but generally nicer fabrics and if you get them on sale you can get two for less than $1,000. I own a few, all purchased at Lord & Taylor and IMHO, better than my Brooks Brothers suits.
 
#19 ·
If you are under 1000 and you want quality you need to wait for a "sale" or shop around because a fully canvassed jacket made with high quality fabric can be had on the cheap if you are patient. Indeed, I did purchase a Samuelsohn from Saks for less than $400 and it was a great find. BB constantly has sales and frequently you can find suits at half price (say 600-700 dollars) but as mentioned most of their stuff is half canvassed - which isn't to say that their stuff is crap. Indeed the fabrics are pretty decent and with 4 fits usually you can get something that works well for your body type.
 
#25 ·
Rarely mentioned here but my first other than JAB I ever purchased was a local men’s store Jack Victor. Shoulders are a bit boxy but I find the construction good for the price point and a good men’s store will fit you properly for the suit. I believe they are the “store”brand for many independent stores. If you can wait, a Samuelsohn on sale is the way to go, I have purchased 2 for less than 400 each


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#28 · (Edited)
I purchased a navy blue and charcoal Samuelsohn for $325 each.

Joseph Abboud Made in USA (Mens Wearhouse) for $135 each last Christmas. They had a sale recently with the same for around $100-150. They're half-canvas amd wear pretty well.

Ebay is good for deals, but requires patience.

My nicest suits are the most expensive (belvest & isaia) though it's probably diminishing returns.
 
#34 ·
I purchased a navy blue and charcoal Samuelsohn for $325 each.

Joseph Abboud Made in USA (Mens Wearhouse) for $135 each last Christmas. They had a sale recently with the same for around $100-150. They're half-canvas amd wear pretty well.

Ebay is good for deals, but requires patience.

My nicest suits are the most expensive (belvest & isaia) though it's probably diminishing returns.
Did you get the Samuelsohn online through Nordstrom, or in the store? The guy at Nordstrom said they never carried them. All the Samuelsohn ones online are pretty expensive. Guessing I just need to hit the after Christmas sale?