Besides the style itself, the double sole is a look that Alden has had for a long time. If you like the style of the shoe but want a slightly better look, contact Leathersoul. They sell some of the more unique Aldens. single and flex welt soles. In addition, the lasts used by Alden and AE are just a bit heavier. This has been the american style for a long time.

Edward Green or AS or Martengani make a much nicer looking last and shoe but you will pay alot more for them.

 

^^ If I'm understanding your "Clunky" comment correctly you may be looking for something that's a little more fashion forward by design than some of Alden and Allen Edmond's offerings.

If that's the case check with Ron Rider. Although he's officially gotten out of selling shoes in favor of boots I believe he may still have some shoes in stock. I can't say enough god about his business practices and the quality of his shell cordovan shoes and boots.



Other than that Tonyp has given you a good suggestion in looking into Martengani's offerings. If you move into Alfred Sargent and especially the Edwards Green's you're going to take a big jump in price.

Good luck

 

I would've gladly bought from Leather Soul, Leffot, or Alden-of-Carmel, but their allotments are all pre-sold or sell out almost instantaneously. The non-handgrade MTO by Sargent costs £400 w/o the VAT for a customer in the US. That's a little spendier than many (but not all) of the RTW shells from Alden, but it's pretty close to what Leffot et al. are charging for their limited editions.

Thanks for you input.

Nick D.

 

Double soles are obviously more robust than single. That said, they don't suit everyone. They tend to look best IMO on larger men, over 6 feet. I'm 6'4" and I look silly in single soled shoes. Each shoe has it's place; I don't wear sigle soles because they don't look right on me.. I also tend to wear sport coats and slacks without a tie; so he look of double soles works for me.. Double soles are fine under a suit too..

So the best shoe of choice depends on a few factors, and no one shoe is right for everyone..

 

I've ogled this page, too, but Carmina seems to be less known in the US. Does anyone here stock them?

 

Most of the Alden-made shell cordovan shoes branded and sold by Brooks Brothers have single-thickness soles.

 

I've never understood this "AE and Alden are clunky" sentiment. To me, the long and narrow look that's in fashion now is much worse... almost like Beatles boots.

 

Superb

 

I should've been a little more precise, b/c I don't find the AE shell brogues or Alden Norwegian fronts clunky, but I can't rationalize buying another pair of either style.

Nick D.

 

I should've been a little more precise, b/c I don't find the AE shell brogues or Alden Norwegian fronts clunky, but I can't rationalize buying another pair of either style.

Nick D.

now u mention it, my C & J cordo blucher's are doubles too. Maybe it's because cordo itself is inherently rustic and casual because of the beef roll creasing, and the double sole is consistent with that. If u want a single cordo apart from Carmina, u could go Vass. He's particularly good with casual shoes.
Double soles of course do last longer, but I certainly don't think you've made a mistake getting the single. I'm not a big fan of double soles with suits, for example, and I will often Topy so the double is purely an aesthetic issue for me anyway.

 

Split the difference and get some double soles that taper to a single at the waist. I love that look!

 

It's the 360 degree welt that makes people think their shoes are clunky. It's actually been proven on a thread on Style Forum (I believe) that their lasts are no more "blobby" than other brands, excepting of course the really fashion forward stuff.

 

It's the 360 degree welt that makes people think their shoes are clunky. It's actually been proven on a thread on Style Forum (I believe) that their lasts are no more "blobby" than other brands, excepting of course the really fashion forward stuff.

I think you're refering to the AE PA versus EG on the 202 last picture that was floating around. To be fair, the 202 last is the least shapely last that Edward Green uses, while the PA last is one of the sleekest that AE uses.

 

Point taken. I still don't think AE's shoes are as "old man" as some say.

 

Point taken. I still don't think AE's shoes are as "old man" as some say.

I agree 100% with you. Some of AE's shoes are too sleek for my taste. The toe box of the Macneil for instance is probably the sleekest of any longwing available. However, I think the AE Strand is the perfect shoe of it's type. AE got every single proportion correct on that shoe. The 360 degree welt does nothing to diminish that shoe.

I would never wear the sleeker EG lasts - 888, 82, 808 etc. Far too strange looking with what I normally wear.

 

While some may think them "clunky," those double leather soles bring with that look enhanced comfort and support for those who spend a lot of their time standing and walking on hard surfaces. Do they wear better/longer? Perhaps. Do they present a less streamlined appearance than single leather soles? Maybe. Will they contribute to yoiur dawgs feeling less abused at the end of a long, hard day? Absolutely!

 

While some may think them "clunky," those double leather soles bring with that look enhanced comfort and support for those who spend a lot of their time standing and walking on hard surfaces. Do they wear better/longer? Perhaps. Do they present a less streamlined appearance than single leather soles? Maybe. Will they contribute to yoiur dawgs feeling less abused at the end of a long, hard day? Absolutely!

I'll second that one, those dbl oak soles don't telegraph everything through the sole to your feet, makes a difference at the end of the day.

 

I don't know that double soles are necessarily more durable. You wouldn't wear through a whole layer before resoling them!

 

I would not wear double soles with a business suit (dark lounge suit) but I know it's different in the US.

On a black cap toe, worn for business or similar, I prefer single leather soles.

For a brown shoe worn with a country suit, or (more often) with an odd jacket/blazer and trousers, I'd could go with a thicker sole.

Digressing slightly:

I think we have Americans with clunkier shoes, the Brits in the middle, and the Italians on the other side with shoes with barely any sole at all. I've heard that Americans (statistically) have large feet, Brits are in the middle and Italians have small feet. I guess the general sole thickness varies with the most common foot sizes of the country.

 

I hadn't considered comfort as a factor in choosing single or double. So maybe function should sometimes trump form.

Nick D.

 

Comfort is a huge factor for me! At 6'4" / 220lbs I destroy single soled shoes in a year or so.. Double soled shoes are not only MUCH more comfortable, they can take the constant stress of a large and heavy man with relative ease! They soak up the terrain so to speak and are very supportive... And they look great too!

 

As a chunky shoe junkie I cannot sympathize with the OP's quest, but as a contributor who wants to help shoe junkies of all sorts find the shoe they are seeking, remember that Crockett and Jones will make any of their models in shell cordovan if you ask, even if the Ready To Wear version is designed with custom calf. There is a store in New York, and the people there are very helpful. Tell them what you want in shell and they will make it.

 

I would not wear double soles with a business suit (dark lounge suit) but I know it's different in the US.

On a black cap toe, worn for business or similar, I prefer single leather soles.

For a brown shoe worn with a country suit, or (more often) with an odd jacket/blazer and trousers, I'd could go with a thicker sole.

I'm the same way. Oxfords need a single sole and bevelled waist. That's just how they should be. I like my 2-eyelet derbies the same way. 5 and 6-eyelet derbies just seem to need a double sole. Monks and brogues can go either way, depending on their use. For moccasins I like a thin, non-welted sole. It's a lighter shoes that needs a lighter sole.