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Scuff on Corrected Grain...No Hope?

9.6K views 9 replies 9 participants last post by  Cruiser  
#1 ·
So I did some research on here and the most that I could find were a few throwaway comments that scuffs on corrected grain shoes are unrepairable.

I have a pair of Florsheim Kenmoor (not wingtips though) bluchers in wine that got their first scuff after maybe 8 years right on the toe area. I tried shoe cream and it didn't remove the scuff. The shoes are otherwise in fantastic condition and probably I'm the only one who notices the scuff, but it's driving me crazy. Is there any home remedy out there?
 
#3 ·
I have a pair of the burgundy Sebago Cayman IIs and they have a couple scuffs on the inside from rubbing against my clutch. I haven't been able to find anything that helps either. I'm beginning to think we are SOL with fixing the scuff. Only thing I can think of is maybe a skilled cobbler knows of a way to refinish them, but at the price I got the shoes its not worth it to me.
 
#4 ·
I was looking around for an answer to a similar problem with patent leather (AE Copley) and ran across a website that suggested using a soft cloth with acetone on it. I have never tried this (and don't know if I plan to) but I would guess the object is to slightly soften/melt/distort the surrounding finish to fill in the blemishes. If you do try this let us know what happens!
 
#7 ·
Essentially, you have the equivalent of a varnished wood tabletop that has been scratched deeply enough to penetrate the varnish. So your choices are to inconspicuously replace the damaged varnish (very difficult), or strip the finish entirely and apply a new finish (easier).

I have found over the past ten years that most corrected grain shoes can be stripped of their corrective layer with acetone and paper towels, then refinished with polish, greatly improving their appearance. I've done this with Bostonians, Bass corrected grain Weejuns, and a number of pairs of contemporary Cole-Haans and Florsheims.

The process is straightforward: saturate a paper towel, rub the shoes until the finish turns dull, and discard the now-colored paper towel. Rinse, lather, repeat, using a soft toothbrush dipped in acetone to reach tight spaces. Avoid non-nylon toothbrushes, since the acetone dissolves them.

Once you have a uniformly dull shoe, apply a first layer of meltonian cream polish in a shade lighter than the original shoe, as a base color, then switch to darker Kiwi wax polish for subsequent layers. You'll probably apply and buff out 3-4 layers all told.

Someone in the back will of course shout out "but won't removing the corrective grain reveal hideous flawed leather beneath?" My experience is that it will not. Shoe companies seem to apply corrective graining over a generally smooth surface, in order to achieve a plasticky shine that draws the rubes. The worst I've ever found beneath a graining layer was minor creasing that actually added a nice character line after a few coats of polish.