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(Rant) In Search Of.... a well-fitted classic black leather jacket

7.7K views 13 replies 13 participants last post by  jc1305us  
#1 · (Edited)
AAAC Brothers/Sisters,
Following up on a similar thread from 2009, I am (still) in need of your help. For what seems like years I've had a quiet personal quest to find a good general use short black leather jacket as a complement to my beloved brown Cooper A-2.

What I'm looking for... if only it fit!

My issue - I am 5'9", a 40R jacket, a 33" shirt-sleeve, and a 32" waist. Under normal cicumstances I'm a perfect "Medium" fit in sportswear. But there's a hole in my wardrobe - short black leather jackets are consistently sloppy looking on me. They are too long and full in the body (often to the middle of my hips rather than just below my waist) and MUCH too long in the sleeve (usually down to or even past my finger-knuckles).

Now I don't think I'm ego-driven on a size-tag or too picky on my requirements, and have worked my way down the rack to see how smaller jackets might fit. My own findings there is there is little difference in length in "small" sizes, though the body fit is often a bit better. Few stores seem to even stock sizes below size 40, but if they do a 36 does seem to offer me a better sleeve and body length, though then the chest/torso is now too snug.

As you note from my illustration that I've delved into Schott, which is a respected leather maker here. They have some really good-looking jackets (the 135 and 689 especially) but the measurements confirmed still go quite long in the sleeve and body. This is due to them being motorcycle jackets and needing substantial extra coverage when one stetches out on a bike. I contacted them on their custom program, but the costs there are a bit prohibitive (reaching $2000 on what is normally a $500-700 jacket).

:icon_headagainstwal ARRRGH!

So I reach out to this community for your updated advice and references - is there a source of well-fitted classic non-motorcyle black leather jackets short of ~$1500 custom jobs? I've checked into local alteration resources shared on leather alterations, but none are able to guarantee their work. I understand the risks involved in such effort, so don't hold it against them - it just means that I do need to find a jacket that fits from the beginning.

I keep myself open to variations, but these are my must-haves as guidelines for your advice...
- Very good non-antiqued black leather (goat would be ideal, but any high-grade skin is acceptable).
- Straight sleeve cuffs and bottom (with no fabric cuffs/banding).
- Classic styling with minimal metal showing or other decorative accents.

PS - I believe my referenced brown Cooper A-2 fits due to a couple apparent reasons... the military's more tailored fits (they are even sized in short/regular/tall, something I've not seen from other makers) and the use of banded cuffs and bottom. Frankly, I'd go for one of the same jacket in black, but never found it yet.

Thanks in advance for your advice!
 
#2 ·
Take a look at langlitz.com. Scroll past their motorcycle image to find "civilian" jackets. When designing one for myself, I had frequent, affirmative contact with one of the owners and later visited Portland for measurements. I claim some experience with higher-end custom shops. The feel of Langlitz Leathers was genuine, and the jacket they made for me is superb. You would have to decide for yourself about cost, but I think you could expect an excellent fit, the best material and outstanding workmanship.
 
#6 ·
The REAL problem with MOST of these (not necessarily the Polo or BB) is that they are all cut far too long these days. I am only 5'8" and I like my short leather jackets to sit at the waist, or maybe 1 or 2 inches below that. The trend, though, is for these things to hang much lower than that. I think it looks awful. I friend of mine got a great leather jacket at www.wested.com. You can add custom features and I think it will be right up your alley. I know I certainly have one of these baby's on my wish list. Got that vintage vibe too, and I am always all over that.
 
#7 ·
Part of the problem is that what your looking for is s a "motorcycle jacket" or at least was inspired by one several generations back. What that means is that the arms are designed to be long enough to come to the wrist when your arms are out in front of your body and bent in to hold the handle bars. The extra body length is to avoid showing off the top of your rear when your bent at the middle sitting on the bike. The extra room inside is to hold bulky warm garments for cool weather riding, or to leave room for air to circulate when your riding on a hot day.

In other words the base item is not a fashion garment, but sports equipment. They are cut correctly to fill that role.

Now, most people who wear one will never get on a bike, and its iconic enough that being a rider is not required to wear one (though it helps). Your best shot is probably to get something custom made, reset your expectations, or look for something a little more dressy.

Good luck!
 
#8 ·
If you ride a motorcycle, you need the jacket to be a bit long when you're standing. Otherwise, it'll ride up on your back when you're bent over in normal riding posture. Same with the sleeves. They have to fit when your arms are stretched out to the handlebars, so they'll be a bit long when you're standing. I have a 3/4 length leather car coat, and the sleeves were too long. My local dry cleaner shortened them nicely (for $40), so leather sleeves can probably be shortened unless they have "motorcycle jacket" zippers in them.
 
#9 ·
Great looking Schott

Just order a Schott 689H and have them shorten the sleeves for you in their custom options. It has a 25" length, which is 3" shorter than most standard "trim" jackets. I can't imagine that they would charge you $2,000 to shorten the sleeves some:crazy:

Leather is not very "forgiving" (but it can stretch out of shape if too tight), so you'll want to be sure that the shoulders and chest fit well - that is comfortably. Sounds like you basically want to wear it as a shirt, with maybe only a V-neck T-shirt underneath.

Frankly, I've never seen any leather jacket, racer or otherwise, that looked as smart as the 689H. Of course, part of that stems from my anti-detail preference: There's little extraneous patching and ribbing, and no wrist or waist bands. This is a winner, IMO.
 
#11 ·
...In other words the base item is not a fashion garment, but sports equipment. They are cut correctly to fill that role....
Unless you're Steve McQueen, who wore real stuff and looked cool doing it.

It's hard to find well made stuff that fits these days. Everybody is so damn fat, and/or pumped up with weights and steroids and protein shakes. But mostly just real super fat. Normal dudes look like mice wearing typical stuff.
 
#13 ·
One thing to keep in mind when talking about having alterations done to a leather jacket, there is a significant difference in the thickness of a true motorcycle jacket and one made of "fashion" leather. The motorcycle jacket is usually at least 4mm in thickness and most people who do alterations don't have the equipment to sew leather that is this thick. Many will not even sew the thinner fashion leather, but it's easier to find someone who will work on this than it is to find someone who will alter a heavy duty leather jacket.

Also, like someone mentioned, most motorcycle jackets have zippered sleeves.

Cruiser