Do some more searching, and you'll find plenty about them here. I own a pair of Rancourt/Brooks Brothers chukkas and LOVE them. I've written about them a few times. Others have too.

 

Do some more searching, and you'll find plenty about them here. I own a pair of Rancourt/Brooks Brothers chukkas and LOVE them. I've written about them a few times. Others have too.

Out of the shoes you own, where would you put your Rancourt's on the list of favorites?

 

Rancourt is the answer to every trad's handsewn-shoe prayers: high quality materials, excellent craftsmanship, practically unlimited freedom in custom details for little to no added cost, stellar customer service and turnaround time, made in Maine and priced to compete with regularly priced AE models.

 

Out of the shoes you own, where would you put your Rancourt's on the list of favorites?

It's hard to compare, since I don't own shoes like my Rancourts. I mean, I have a bunch of AE dress shoes, and two AE chukkas, one suede. ANd a pair of AE Wilberts. I also have some Clarks DBs. The Rancourts I own are suede mocs with crepe soles. Since buying them, I can't look take the Clarks seriously any more and havn't touched them. I really should just donate the Clarks to a charity. I also favor the Rancourts over the Wilberts for casual wear. They very comfortable. I tend only to go for the Wilberts when I find that their more conventional looks are more appropriate, for whatever reason. Either way, since I mostly wear dress shoes, I only go to the Rancourts or AE Wilberts at most once a week, but that's not a reflection on how much I enjoy them.

Probably my single favorite pair are my AE Cliftons in dark brown because of their great versatility. I wear those at least twice a week.

Before next summer, I intend to acquire a pair of Rancourts ranger mocs or penny loafers for summer casual wear with no-show socks.

 

They receive freqent mention on the trad forum, uniformly positive mention. Because they are handsewns, they're not really comparable to most of the Alden and AE models. A more apt comparison would be Quoddy. I have yet to spring for the shell penny, but have 3 or 4 other pair, and they are superb. It's a smallish factory, and each pair is made to order, so some degree of customizing is possible: eg, I get mine in a size 10 left and 10.5 right, and have ordered one pair in a leather that is not listed for the model I ordered. Get their number from their website, and talk to Kyle, one of the owners. He is friendly, approachable, and of course highly knowledgeable, and will answer all your questions.

 

I believe they are much like AE. In fact, AE made their shoes for awhile until a disagreement between Rancourt and newer AE management at the time. But the lasts and basic constructions are almost identical.

 

I believe they are much like AE. In fact, AE made their shoes for awhile until a disagreement between Rancourt and newer AE management at the time. But the lasts and basic constructions are almost identical.

I think you have it reversed. I think Rancourt made some of AE's shoes, and AE owns a stake in Rancourt. Rancourt also does some Ralph Lauren stuff.

 

I'm pretty sure the chronological history is:

-- Grandfather Rancourt sold his shoemaking business to Quoddy.
-- Grandfather Rancourt and son (Mike) start shoe business and sell to Cole Haan.
-- Mike Rancourt and wife start business and sell to Allen Edmonds.
-- Mike and son (Kyle) start current business, Rancourt and Co.

Someone please correct if I'm wrong.

 

^^
Didn't Mike and son (Kyle) buy the handsewn operation back from AE when AE transferred their handsewn construction moved to the Dominican Republic? In any event, the Rancourt company is indeed top notch, offering some of the very best handsewn's that I have found. Purchased pair in just the past year; Venetian loafers, Ranger Mocs and Beefroll pennys'. Great stuff!

 

I don't have direct knowledge of the Rancourt's business. What I know is from either public sources or those in the industry.

That said, my understanding is that Mike worked out something to decouple from AE when AE was closing down in Maine and either laying off workers or offering them transfers to Wisconsin.

^^
Didn't Mike and son (Kyle) buy the handsewn operation back from AE when AE transferred their handsewn construction moved to the Dominican Republic? In any event, the Rancourt company is indeed top notch, offering some of the very best handsewn's that I have found. Purchased pair in just the past year; Venetian loafers, Ranger Mocs and Beefroll pennys'. Great stuff!

 

I don't have direct knowledge of the Rancourt's business. What I know is from either public sources or those in the industry.

That said, my understanding is that Mike worked out something to decouple from AE when AE was closing down in Maine and either laying off workers or offering them transfers to Wisconsin.

A story in the Maine media that confirms the purchase and separation of Rancourt from Allen Edmonds.

https://www.sunjournal.com/node/791254

-Christopher

 

I have a pair of good looking Rancourt Chukka boots for $148 marked down from ~$300 from BB in Costa Mesa, where the service was great, as usual.

They are almost moccasin construction and very comfortable. My ankle approves of the supremely soft and resilient crepe soles -- too bad they soil so badly -- and it is gratifying that these shoes are not made in a death camp. There is room for the orthotics with only a little squeaking in use but getting the brace under the vamp is a struggle, as usual.

There is no heel counter and the backseam split but BB had it repaired to somewhat less than concours d'elegance restoration locally for free with as-you-wish service. The suede has what looks like a gummy residue that will not brush off in some places, but otherwise is very nice.

I like these just fine, but that this price point (~#300 full retail), there ought to be a heel counter. Unless otherwise noted, all else is sublime grooviness.