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Pant rise formula

18K views 37 replies 9 participants last post by  Peak and Pine  
#1 ·
I've been looking more and more into pant rise.

Has anyone ever used this formula? From Gentleman's Gazette:

"On the internet, you can find some old tailor's formulas for calculating the optimal rise for you based on taking your usual pants waist size, dividing by 52 and then multiplying by 18."

For me, it works out as 31.5 ÷ 52 x 18 or 10.903.

That seems about right for shorter mid-rise, but I'd think an old tailor's formula would give a higher number for a more classic look.

Attached is me in pants with an 11.5 rise, which I'd consider mid-rise. I wouldn't want to go shorter. Would you agree these are mid-rise?

I'm also not sure how the formula is supposed to work. If I gained an inch or two in my waist, why would my preferred rise change? Shouldn't just be based on dividing the body?

 

Attachments

#19 ·
Like any formula - it only works for an average, much like the jacket length has to end in the bent hand.
The rise for a gentleman's trouser has absolutely nothing to do with either their height or weight.

The rise for dress slacks will be different than the rise for jeans or even casual pants.
Also - depending on the manufacturer - some measure from the top of the waistband and others from the bottom.

Also depending on your physique - you may need adjustments to the back or front rise.
I tell my clients to to make sure the rise fits rather than trying to adjust it too much - it is never the same as one that fits correctly in the beginning.

Generally - trimmer men need shorter rises, larger men need longer rises.
The problems begin in larger men when they wear pants below the stomach ( like me!!).
This necessitates a shorter front rise, and if they have no behind (a common age affliction), the back rise will also be shorter. The rise for someone with a larger behind (ahem) , needs to be longer to accommodate both the rear and the thighs - as they usually go hand in hand.

Most MTM companies use the difference between the inseam and outseam for the rise.
In my case I have them use a longer zipper as a short front rise will often come with a 5 or 5 1/2" zipper .


Best bet is for you to try on multiple pants - find the one that is really comfortable and then take the measures from that pant.
 
#9 ·
The rise should be the length that you want. If I were having bespoke trousers made, I wouldn’t get out the calculator; I’d put my finger at a specific point on my midsection and say, “I want the top of the waistband to be HERE.” Then I’d let the tailor figure out how to get it there.

With ready-made trousers, I prefer a rise of about 11.25 to 11.5 inches. That’s why I avoid the modern-fit stuff.
 
#10 · (Edited)
The rise should be the length that you want. If I were having bespoke trousers made, I wouldn't get out the calculator; I'd put my finger at a specific point on my midsection and say, "I want the top of the waistband to be HERE." Then I'd let the tailor figure out how to get it there.

With ready-made trousers, I prefer a rise of about 11.25 to 11.5 inches. That's why I avoid the modern-fit stuff.
How tall are you and what's your inseam, if you don't mind me asking?

Also, only if you don't mind, what rise does the formula give you?
 
#3 ·
Personally I would call that a high rise.

The formula surprisingly works for me. It comes out to 11.4" for front rise. The pants I had made for me were 11.5" in the front rise.

I assume the rise increases because the bigger your waist, the bigger your belly, and the more length is needed in the front rise to sit on your natural waist.