Online MTM often results in unmitigated disasters.

OTR is better than online MTM. Cheaper too.

In-person MTM, where a professional measures you (hopefully a real tailor) and performs fittngs, is also much better than online MTM. If you want more customization options than OTR offers, go this route.

MTM differs from bespoke, in that the garment is usually made in a factory somewhere with cheap labor, and cut from pre-made patterns, as opposed to an individualized pattern. Alterations are performed on the completed garment to correct problems in fit.

For OTR, check out SuitSupply first.

For MTM, I'm not familiar with options in the UK, but my tailor Steed (https://www.steed.co.uk/) has an MTM line in which Edwin DeBoise (the cutter) measures you and fits you himself. Check him out.

 

When it comes to tailored clothing, no question OTR is better. Setting aside arguments for quality, the time wasted and frustration expressed by many here with the absolute disasters they've had with online MTM makes OTR that much better.

 

With regard to the SuitSupply suggestion: They have an MTO program where if a particular cut fits you well but they don't have specific fabric or details you want, they can have one made to your needs. This will also work for getting suit separates where they don't already have that option. I think separates were limited to just a couple of suits/fabrics last time I checked.

As to your original question, even in-person MTM can go horribly wrong if the person who measures you doesn't understand how to adjust the pattern based on your body. I have seldom seen online MTM produce even average results. It's usually a complete disaster and it's hard to get people to see and admit that as no one likes to realize they just wasted a lot of money.

 

I think the first thing is to actually know your measurements. Well tailored OTR (bought in an appropriate cut) is just as good as bespoke for many body types. Granted if you have a 10 inch drop, it is about impossible to buy a suit OTR so there are body types that need MTM or Bespoke. OTOH, crappy MTM is just that, crap.....

 

Well tailored OTR (bought in an appropriate cut) is just as good as bespoke for many body types.

Well, it depends on the level of bespoke. There are cuts/silhouettes that are virtually impossibly to acquire OTR (such as the drape cut). Good bespoke is also likely to be much more comfortable to wear than OTR, even if on the outside, they appear to fit equally well.

But that's another story. For someone starting out dressing up, they should look at a good OTR brand like SuitSupply.

 

Allow me to repost from a similar thread from last month:

You should definitely go online, for the following reasons:

1) entertaining follow-up thread entitled "does my suit fit?" where you post photos showing a suit that is too tight, short and narrow and we can all laff at your expense
2) another thread entitled, "can anything be done with this suit?" where you ask the forum if a suit that is too tight short and narrow can be let out, to which the answer will be a resounding "NO!" with more laffs.
3) another thread entitled, "trying to get my money back?" where you have the forum in hysterics as you describe your extened attempt to get a refund from the online supplier of your suit, who is not living up to the prominent guarantee on his website owing to a 1 point disclaimer at the bottom of the order form only visible if you scroll down.
4) a final thread where you give the forum a chance to show off their knowledge when you post a thread "looking for a local recommendation for a tailor".

 

Allow me to repost from a similar thread from last month:

Priceless.

 

I've seen a lot of threads about wasted money with online made to measure suits, too.

 

Well, it depends on the level of bespoke. There are cuts/silhouettes that are virtually impossibly to acquire OTR (such as the drape cut). Good bespoke is also likely to be much more comfortable to wear than OTR, even if on the outside, they appear to fit equally well.

But that's another story. For someone starting out dressing up, they should look at a good OTR brand like SuitSupply.

Also depends on the level of OTR. Agree that no one makes a drape cut per se but I have at least one MTM suit that is kind of a modified drape (very full in the chest but not as structured in the shoulders) It's comfortable but I don't think it is as flattering as some of my other suits. Just a bit too much cloth and since I don't need space for my holster....

 

So looks like I'll pop down to London into one of the UK stores and maybe look at the other shoes brands while I'm there too.

 

With regard to the SuitSupply suggestion: They have an MTO program where if a particular cut fits you well but they don't have specific fabric or details you want, they can have one made to your needs. This will also work for getting suit separates where they don't already have that option. I think separates were limited to just a couple of suits/fabrics last time I checked.

As to your original question, even in-person MTM can go horribly wrong if the person who measures you doesn't understand how to adjust the pattern based on your body. I have seldom seen online MTM produce even average results. It's usually a complete disaster and it's hard to get people to see and admit that as no one likes to realize they just wasted a lot of money.

I have never seen online made to measure produce results that are anything other than poor.

 

I have never seen online made to measure produce results that are anything other than poor.

Thanks for the additional warnings Audi.

Also another quick question as I was doing more research.

There's some recommendations on getting extra trousers. I was thinking on getting spare trousers for my staple colours (I'm thinking of getting a solid set of Navy, Grey and Charcoal). The extra set of trousers would also allow me to get one with belt loops and have one with no loops with suspenders to mix it up.

So thoughts on extra trousers for staple suits, yay or nay?

 

^ These days, it seems like most guys wear suits so infrequently that the extra pair of trousers seems like overkill since you are probably pretty unlikely to wear out a pair but I do sort of like your idea of going for a pair with belt loops and another without. If I were doing this I'd probably go for a pair with belt loops and a pair with adjustable sidestraps.

 

So looks like I'll pop down to London into one of the UK stores and maybe look at the other shoes brands while I'm there too.

That's what I was going to recommend. Unless you are a most abnormal size (in which case, I apologise for using that adjective), OTR is probably the best option.

For suits as for shirts and shoes, the area in and around Jermyn Street/Savile Row may be worth investigating. Cordings, and New & Lingwood have OTR suits, and Oliver Brown in Chelsea might be worth investigating. I'm sure there are hundreds of other places, I've only mentioned the places I like, but you can look them up on-line first.

 

That's what I was going to recommend. Unless you are a most abnormal size (in which case, I apologise for using that adjective), OTR is probably the best option.

For suits as for shirts and shoes, the area in and around Jermyn Street/Savile Row may be worth investigating. Cordings, and New & Lingwood have OTR suits, and Oliver Brown in Chelsea might be worth investigating. I'm sure there are hundreds of other places, I've only mentioned the places I like, but you can look them up on-line first.

Awesome thanks once again Langham. I'll probably go with getting an extra pair of trousers (one with loops/one without) just to mix it up.

No I'm more or less average size aside from the fairly large drop/relatively large legs and calves which can be solved with alterations. My arms are slightly on the shorter size but from what everyone said SS suits sleeves run a little shorter so a 38R might come out fine.

 

Thanks for the additional warnings Audi.

Also another quick question as I was doing more research.

There's some recommendations on getting extra trousers. I was thinking on getting spare trousers for my staple colours (I'm thinking of getting a solid set of Navy, Grey and Charcoal). The extra set of trousers would also allow me to get one with belt loops and have one with no loops with suspenders to mix it up.

So thoughts on extra trousers for staple suits, yay or nay?

Go for the extra pants for the staple suits. They'll last twice as long.

But you'll have to do suit separates if you buy off the rack. However, if you buy made to order, made to measure or bespoke, you'll have to ask for a second pair of pants, as brands and tailors won't automatically make that for you.

 

If you get 2 pair of trousers, make sure you wear them both, and not archive the second pair. A few trips to the cleaners and the pristine pair may not quite match the jacket.

Getting 2 pair of trousers is a good idea. I be ruined a few pair (thankfully not suit trousers), getting the pocket caught in those darn straight handled ADA door handles. The catch the pocket as you brush by and rip through the front, destroying them beyond the capabilities of even the best re weavers. I had that happen recently with a pair of custom made camel hair trousers on their second wear. Luckily my son works for MWH and they were JA custom at a 55% friends and familial you discount, so replacing them wasn't as painful as it could have been.

They were very pricy for JA as they were the highest level material they have. Why do the good ones go first

 

If you get 2 pair of trousers, make sure you wear them both, and not archive the second pair. A few trips to the cleaners and the pristine pair may not quite match the jacket.

Getting 2 pair of trousers is a good idea. I be ruined a few pair (thankfully not suit trousers), getting the pocket caught in those darn straight handled ADA door handles. The catch the pocket as you brush by and rip through the front, destroying them beyond the capabilities of even the best re weavers. I had that happen recently with a pair of custom made camel hair trousers on their second wear. Luckily my son works for MWH and they were JA custom at a 55% friends and familial you discount, so replacing them wasn't as painful as it could have been.

They were very pricy for JA as they were the highest level material they have. Why do the good ones go first

Thanks, I'll definitely rotate them. I know about the wear and it may not matching so thanks for the reminder (and take them both to the dry cleaners at the same time.)

Awesome looks like I'll pop to London when I have time to have a look at SS and go browse all the shops that Langham suggested. If anybody has any other favourites I'm all ears!

Thanks again.

 

If you are going to London you might as well check out the bespoke shops. Never know what may come of it. Don't believe that they are all expensive. Some have mtm on the side.

 

If you have one of those saints of the menswear world, a good alterations tailor, there is little need for you go do anything but OTR. Only those of us with very fussy, particular desires in cloth/lining or those of unusual physique have any need for MTM or bespoke tailoring. And in the case of MTM, get a good tailor to measure you. Better yet, use on of the more reputable traveling MTM services like MyTailor or Ravis. Avoid 'send us the measurements and we'll MTM' like the plague.

 

If you have one of those saints of the menswear world, a good alterations tailor, there is little need for you go do anything but OTR. Only those of us with very fussy, particular desires in cloth/lining or those of unusual physique have any need for MTM or bespoke tailoring. And in the case of MTM, get a good tailor to measure you. Better yet, use on of the more reputable traveling MTM services like MyTailor or Ravis. Avoid 'send us the measurements and we'll MTM' like the plague.

Yeah I have a tailor and we get along well. This does bring up another point. I can get a two piece MTM suit made up from him for £700 due to our relationship but due to my relative inexperience I would thought it would be better to just start with OTR with alterations.

With this do you think I'm still better off just going OTR and alterations until I get more knowledgeable in terms of suiting preferences?

 

With this do you think I'm still better off just going OTR and alterations until I get more knowledgeable in terms of suiting preferences?

Exactly right.

 

Exactly right.

Awesome, thanks Charles on the quick confirmation.

Just like to say thanks for all your helpful responses everyone and hope you all have a happy Christmas.

 

If you have one of those saints of the menswear world, a good alterations tailor, there is little need for you go do anything but OTR. Only those of us with very fussy, particular desires in cloth/lining or those of unusual physique have any need for MTM or bespoke tailoring. And in the case of MTM, get a good tailor to measure you. Better yet, use on of the more reputable traveling MTM services like MyTailor or Ravis. Avoid 'send us the measurements and we'll MTM' like the plague.

This is so true. I have a great, great tailor and as long as the OTR is close he makes it fit very close to my MTM and bespoke pieces.

 

This is so true. I have a great, great tailor and as long as the OTR is close he makes it fit very close to my MTM and bespoke pieces.

Thanks JB on this insight. If it's good enough for the vets on this site, it's good enough for me. That reassuring that good alterations on OTR doesn't fall completely short of MTM.