OCBD Shirt Measurement Details: Mercer, BB, Lands' End, and J Press

JohnMS · Jul 31, 2007

I just received a J Press white oxford shirt in the mail. Before giving any comment about the shirt itself, I have included the shirt measurements below. Since a previous review compared the Mercer to Brooks Brothers for a size 16.5-33 and later a Mercer to Lands' End at someone's request…here are the measurements for all four. All shirts measured are 16.5-33 BEFORE washing.

1. COLLAR

A. Point lengths
Mercer (M) 3 - 9/16 inches
Brooks Brothers (BB) 3 - 6/16
Lands' End (LE) 3 - ¼
J Press (JP) 3 - 5/16

B. Across collar, button to button (middle of each button)
M 3- 9/16
BB 3-3/8
LE 2-7/8
JP 3-1/4

C. Height (back of collar width top to bottom)
M 2
BB 2
LE 1-7/8
JP 1-7/8

D. Tie space (space between collar to allow for a tie)
M 3/8
BB 5/16
LE 1/2
JP 5/16

2. CHEST
M 52-1/4
BB 52
LE 50-1/2
JP 48-3/4

3. WAIST (measured 3-inches below bottom of chest pocket)
M 49
BB 50
LE 48-1/2
JP 47

4. SHIRT TAILS (measured 3 areas of the shirts)
a. Front down (top button to bottom of shirt)
M 30
BB 30-1/8
LE 29-1/2
JP 29

b. Side down (under arms to bottom of side of shirt)
M 17-1/4
BB 18-1/4
LE 16-3/4
JP 18-7/8

c. Back down (bottom of collar to bottom of shirt) M -33-1/4 LE - 30-1/4
M 33-1/4
BB 33-1/2
LE 30-1/4
JP 31-1/2

5. SHOULDERS (across yoke)
M 20
BB 19-1/4
LE 20-3/16
JP 19-5/8

6. Additional, picky details
a. Width of cuff (width of material)
M 2-9/16
BB 2-7/16
LE 2-7/16
JP 2-3/4

b. Cuff opening (space to fit that wrist and watch in)
M 4-3/8
BB 4-3/4
LE 4-3/16
JP 4-1/2

d. Sleeve placket opening (end of placket to start of cuff)
M 5-1/4
BB 5-7/16
LE 5-3/8
JP 5

e. Number of front buttons
M 6, BB 7, LE 7, JP 7

f. Back pleat
M, BB, LE, JP - all have box pleats

g. Yoke
M, BB non-split
LE split, mitered
JP split, not mitered

h. Sleeve placket button
M No
BB No
LE Yes (horizontal)
JP Yes (vertical)

h. Seam tailoring (sides, etc.)
M single-needle
BB single-needle
LE single-needle
JP not single needle

And now some pictures of the Press shirt, which will hopefully show some of the finishing details such as buttonholes, etc.

Here is a look at the collar roll before washing:

The finish on the buttonholes, which looks better than what Mercer offers:

The pleats on the sleeves on the Press shirt are odd to me. I'm used to the shirring offered by BB and the clean pleats of the other shirts:

The finishing of the side seams surprised me. For a shirt of this price ($69.50), you'd think there would be single-needle tailoring.

A shot of the tag and it also shows the material somewhat. This oxford cloth is not as soft as any of the other brands, including the $14.95 LL Bean oxford.

The flap pocket

The Press shirt measures up quite slim compared to the other shirts. Hopefully I can fit into it to try it out. I'm not impressed initially with the Press shirt, and would place it even behind the LE shirt. Given LE is $29.50 for Hyde Park and $69.50 for Press...give me the LE shirt.

Desk Jockey · Jul 31, 2007

Though I've been wearing Brooks oxfords since when I've been knee-high to the ground I've near fully converted to Press' wares. They're both cheaper (knock on wood) and a flapped pocket to which I've grown a liking of late.

Danny · Jul 31, 2007

The Press shirts fit me better than any other shirt I've tried. It's like they were made for me.

marlinspike · Jul 31, 2007

In another thread I mentioned Mercer can do a split yoke for $12.50 extra. It's a split and mitered yoke (I wasn't sure on that detail at the time). They can also do a sleeve placket button for an additional $2.50.

JohnMS · Aug 1, 2007

You know, as the shirt hangs in my office, I'm starting to like the flap. Also, I tried the shirt on and it fits well. No question that fit is a factor.

I hope the measurements of these shirts are helpful for those of you considering OCBDs in different brands.

Cowtown · Aug 1, 2007

Thanks John. I will be in DC next week and planned a visit to J. Press. I think I will pass on their OCBD and pick up a club collar shirt.

wnh · Aug 1, 2007

Very helpful, thanks. I do have one request, though. Could you post sleeve length measurements for each? I wear a 16X35 in LE, but when I tried on a BB with 35" sleeves they were way too long. It looked like I had gorilla arms. I wonder if maybe it has to do with a wider yoke on the LE, so that somehow the 35" sleeve doesn't reach as far down my arm?

JohnMS · Aug 1, 2007

I can do that measurement. Could someone comment on how to come up with sleeve length measurements? Is it from center back?

Chris H · Aug 1, 2007

marlinspike said:
In another thread I mentioned Mercer can do a split yoke for $12.50 extra. It's a split and mitered yoke (I wasn't sure on that detail at the time). They can also do a sleeve placket button for an additional $2.50.

Do they quote a price for a third button on the back of the collar?

Thanks

marlinspike · Aug 1, 2007

Chris H said:
Do they quote a price for a third button on the back of the collar?

Thanks

I haven't asked about that one. They are very responsive to e-mails however.

vwguy · Aug 1, 2007

How about the width of the arm holes where they meet the chest?

Brian

JohnMS · Aug 1, 2007

I'll post the requested measurements this afternoon. I neglected to measure the arm size...

Regarding a 3rd button...I asked David about that but said he'd have to get back to me. To have that 3rd button would make the ideal shirt for me as I wouldn't have to keep adjusting my tie.

JohnMS · Aug 2, 2007

More measurements...arm holes and sleeves

More measurements

ARMHOLES (where sleeves meet body of shirt)

LE 11 inches (X 2 of course)
Mercer 10-3/4
Brooks 10-3/4
Press 10-3/4

SLEEVES (unwashed) Measured center back across shoulders and then down the arms. I'm not sure how one is supposed to measure sleeves, but the way I measured is consistent with each shirt.

LE 33-1/4
Mercer 33-5/8
Brooks 32-7/8
Press 32-1/2

Makes me think I need to look at the Press shirt more closely before washing to make sure it fits me.

OCBD Shirt Measurement Details: Mercer, BB, Lands' End, and J Press

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