I have no definitive answers to your questions, but anecdotally, I believe the new OCBD by Brooks Brothers is lighter than its previous iteration.

 

Do traditional cotton OCBD shirts vary much by weight, from source to source? Do some manufacturers use heavier weight cloth than others, and if so, who makes the more "heavyweight" OCBD shirts? (I'm not asking about pinpoint OC, which is a lot lighter--just interested in traditional aka "substantial" cotton cloth shirts.)

As a point of reference, LL Bean OCBDs use a 5.5 oz/sq yard cloth and a medium sized (16/33) shirt weighs about 14 oz. How heavy are others in comparison? And where could I go for a more substantial shirt?

In a word, sure!

But most retailers don't necessarily advertise the weight of cloth used in the shirts they sell. The weight of the cloth is dependent upon a variety of factors including spinning, I.e., how dense the yarn is and its diameter, and weaving, I.e, how tightly it's woven. And since both the amount and quality of fiber that goes into making the cloth significantly affects its cost of production, it also significantly affects the cost of production of the entire shirt. So all things being equal, (Which of course they never are.) less costly shirts are typically woven from lighter weight Oxford cloth.

I will confess to being a purchaser primarily of so-called "wrinkle free" shirts. A quick check of Bean yielded only wrinkle free OCBD's. Unfortunately, my experience has been that Bean's wrinkle free finish is generally among the stiffer/scratchier and less breathable versions. 5.5oz does not sound very heavy for oxford cotton, but may be about as heavy as bearable if it has this finish.

Brooks used to consistently sell a heavier weight oxford cotton, but since they became part of the fashion industry I've noticed significant variance in the cloth used just from season to season, so I would not feel justified in stating their shirts are any longer anything special.

While I've never had one, I've heard Mercer's shirts universally proclaimed as using old fashioned, high quality heavier weight oxford cloth.

 

Thanks for the leads, gentlemen.

For the record, Land's End Hyde Park OCBD shirts use 5.2 oz/yard fabric.

 

Thanks for the leads, gentlemen.

For the record, Land's End Hyde Park OCBD shirts use 5.2 oz/yard fabric.

I have no idea of the measured weight, but I own a lot (okay, a stupid number) of OCBDs and recently purchased this Red Fleece Brooks Brothers one and was impressed by its weight (I like an OCBD to "feel" substantial, almost (but not quite) rough, but clearly not smooth or light):

The material has an old-school feel - heavy, substantial, a touch stiff, but in a good "I'm ready for anything" way.

The shirt also has a lot details I like in an OCBD: locker loop, chest pocket, button in back of collar, unlined collar and cuffs and a sleeve placket button. I grabbed it on a 25% off sale and will buy more at the next sale opportunity. I like it much more than Brooks' main-line $140 OCBD.

 

Comparing my Press must-iron OCBDs with my BB must iron OCBDs (the newest iteration), the Press cloth is definitely heavier. For me that means it's not as comfortable for the first few months, but then it settles into a nice soft, heavy cloth. It's my favorite by far.

However, the BB OCBD was very comfortable right out of the gate, but I wasn't as happy with the feel of the thinner cloth.

Obviously this has to do with much more than just the weight of the cloth, but I think there is some correlation.

 

Comparing my Press must-iron OCBDs with my BB must iron OCBDs (the newest iteration), the Press cloth is definitely heavier. For me that means it's not as comfortable for the first few months, but then it settles into a nice soft, heavy cloth. It's my favorite by far.

However, the BB OCBD was very comfortable right out of the gate, but I wasn't as happy with the feel of the thinner cloth.

Obviously this has to do with much more than just the weight of the cloth, but I think there is some correlation.

All great points - heartily agree.

 

There was a time during which I considered the fabric weight of my OCBDs to be "the heavier, the better." However, over the past year I have developed a very real sense of appreciation for garments made of fabrics are weighted, woven and textured so as to insure maximum ventilation. All else pales in comparison.

 

There was a time during which I considered the fabric weight of my OCBDs to be "the heavier, the better." However, over the past year I have developed a very real sense of appreciation for garments made of fabrics are weighted, woven and textured so as to insure maximum ventilation. All else pales in comparison.

I agree with this! I think I always tended toward heavier-weight OCBDs because I beat the hell out of them and didn't have much money to spend on new ones. Now I have a bit more money and I'm not partying or playing touch-football in them so I can be a bit more discerning about fabric.

Still, though, I generally favor the heavier Press OCBDs because of how soft they end up after several washes.

 

I'm not sure of the exact weight but my O'Connells is the lightest I have followed by BB and the heaviest is my Michael Spencer.


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Ratio Clothing offers two oxford weights - 150gsm campus oxford and 137gsm summer oxford. I have the former and it is pretty beefy and un-ironable. Will try the latter in the future.

 

Lands' End Hyde Parks use a heavier fabric than their Original Oxfords, I'm pretty sure. I think the fabric used in Mercer's Bulletproof Oxfords is heavier than the LEHPs and has a better "feel" to it (subjective, I know),as well they ought to, given the price difference.

 

I have no definitive answers to your questions, but anecdotally, I believe the new OCBD by Brooks Brothers is lighter than its previous iteration.

I would agree with this. Something like 50% less heft for 50% higher price....

Although, I do like the less structured collar, cuffs, and placket. That said, I still miss the pocket, and I don't fully understand the price. Would only buy when a promotional event drops it below $100.

 

Mercer responds: "Our oxford cloth is all 6 ounce."

 

There was a time during which I considered the fabric weight of my OCBDs to be "the heavier, the better." However, over the past year I have developed a very real sense of appreciation for garments made of fabrics are weighted, woven and textured so as to insure maximum ventilation. All else pales in comparison.

I had some very heavy oxford shirts 30 years ago, along with much lighter ones. I think they varied a lot more then. There's a noticeable difference now, but not nearly as much.

Compared to my BB shirts, my Lands End ones are bit lighter, somewhat rough, and not as densely woven. So they're not as hot to begin with and breathe better. They don't last anywhere near as long, but have a charm all their own.

I've never seen a Mercer shirt that I know of.

 

^^
Thank you for that information, Himself. Perhaps it's time to take another look at Lands End for OCBD's to find cooler wearing options. My BB OCBD's have seen very little wear time over the past six months.

 

^^
Thank you for that information, Himself. Perhaps it's time to take another look at Lands End for OCBD's to find cooler wearing options. My BB OCBD's have seen very little wear time over the past six months.

eagle2250, J.Crew puts out a "lightweight" Oxford in the Spring that you might want to check out (I looked and couldn't find any leftovers on its website). I bought a few - they are nice for what I think you want: a lightweight Oxford cloth for warmer weather.

Because they are lighter, they feel a bit odd to me, but to be fair, they are nicer to wear in the hot weather. Hopefully, they'll bring them back this Spring.

 

^^Thank you, my friend. I will add the J. Crew's to my list of OCBD options to check out! :thumbs-up:

 

[HR][/HR]

...a lightweight Oxford cloth for warmer weather...

Don't know about you guys, but I reserve my lighter weight pinpoint oxfords for summer. It's winter, though, and I'd like to stock up on some heavy weight OCBDs. Bring on the "sweater weight" OCBD, says I.

 

Seems that I recall that Ben Silver usually advertises "summer weight" OCBD's in their Spring and Summer catalogs. Not sure if they show the weight but you can be sure they'll be costly.

 

I thought I've seen stuff posted on here about how heavy the LE Sail Rigger oxford cloth supposedly is, but I've never handled one before. In any case, I love my brooks OCBDs (the last version with the pocket)

 

^^Thank you, my friend. I will add the J. Crew's to my list of OCBD options to check out! :thumbs-up:

Whenever I see J Crew OCBDs in person, they seem to have very short collar points. Like sub 3".

 

I just restocked some LE Hyde Park and they feel lighter than ones ordered just a couple of years ago. From a review on the LE site:

According to customer service, the previous Hyde Park shirts were 6.3 ounces/yard. The new ones are now 5.2 oz/yd.

 

^^^ 5.2 oz. may be a nice option for warmer weather. But my question is, how long are Lands End's collar points these days? Everyone is going dinky.

Also, royal oxford, a lighter, looser, satiny weave, is nice for warmer weather. It's dressier than classic oxford or pinpoint. I haven't had any for awhile, but I like it with a blazer.

 

The few LE ocbd shirts I bought over the last year seem to have 3" collar points. Too short for a tie but fine to wear open neck. I've only bought clearance/sale items in the $15-25 price range.

 

Land's End No Iron Oxford Cloth Shirt = 4.7 oz material.