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NYC Chinatown custom suit vs. Brooks vs. Century 21?

26K views 18 replies 11 participants last post by  nsoltz  
#1 ·
Hi,

I'm hoping for some much-needed advice. I'm getting my fiance a suit for Christmas, and can spend $500. Which would you recommend:

*A custom tailor in Chinatown (Baxter St?). If so, which one? And should we buy the fabric separately? I have a car and can drive to the furthest reaches of the outer boroughs to find good, inexpensive fabric.

*Waiting until the January clearance sale at Brooks Brothers. The sales staff tells me you can definitely get a suit then for under $500. But I'm guessing it would be their cheapest lines... If I do this, are there lines to avoid at all costs?

*Braving the chaos at Century 21 and then taking the suit to a good tailor for altering. If we do this, which are the best brands to look for?

Any other suggestions? I know $500 isn't a lot, but compared to the suits he now owns, it should be a big improvement. Chinatown would be most fun, but I've heard it can be a disaster if you don't know what you're doing. And -- is a cheap custom-made job really better than an expertly altered off the rack suit? Maybe the answer is yes....I just have no idea. Help!
 
#2 ·
Don't forget Filene's suit sale. A lot would depend on how easy he is to fit--if he takes something like a 40R with minimal alterations you can probably find some real steals at the clearance sales and add a couple of shirts and ties within budget. If he's an odd size, like a 41S or 43L your selection will be very limited.
Unless your Chinese tailor has the fabric and does the work onsite (unlikely at this price point) you may just select a swatch, get measured and wait for the suit to arrive from Hong Kong.
 
#3 ·
Definitely depends on sizing, as cdavant said. If your husband is built lik ea wedge and has a 14" drop, then go with the chinatown suit, as you're never going to find an OTR suit that can be tailored to look even halfway decent on him (just the pants themselves would be beyond help in all likelihood, not to mention getting the jacket to fit and hang right). If he does fit into a more regular size like say a 46R with a 6" drop without much work, then hit Century 21 or Filene's, followed by BB.
 
#4 · (Edited)
My recommendations:

1. Skip Century 21. Without being disrespective it seems that you are not very experienced. Therefore, you need a salesman and a tailor who can guide you as to fit, quality, and proper alterations. Yes, you can pick-up a steal at Century 21, but it might not fit!

2. Brooks Bros. is a good and safe choice, i.e., 346 Madison where they still have some experienced salesman to guide you. At that price level you'll be buying a standard suit. However, if your guy is very slim, the Brooks suit can be a bit baggy. I found Paul Stuart to be better for my stepson who is a 37, however, that was a $1,000 suit. Also, everything is in-house, therefore, Brooks is the safest and least time consuming choice.

3. Chinatown is a good choice and a little more exciting choice. As a general rule excitement can also bring disappointment and danger. A Chinatown tailor may be able to make a more fitted suit than you can get at Brooks. He may also be able to give you much more handwork. However, some of the Chinatown tailors make a crude, homemade looking suit. If you want to get your own cloth go to Tip Top in Brooklyn; you can get top of the line cloth at about $50 a yard or $200-250 for a standard suit.

4. At your price point don't expect a handmade suit comparable to some of the tailors' suits discussed in the forum.

Good luck.
 
#6 ·
thanks...but one more dumb question

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I know so little about suits, I'm nots sure if he's a standard size....he's not tall and slim, that's for sure. He's 5'8 and pretty stocky. I snooped around in his clothes and if this is any help at all, his shirt sizes are 16 32/33 and his pants are R34. I couldn't find a jacket (that's how badly he needs this suit!)

If this sounds like he's an unusual enough size to risk Chinatown, does anyone have suggestions about a particular place? I've heard there are several on Baxter St. that some of the court lawyers and politicians go to. But I'm not sure which one is good. I read that former mayor David Dinkins gets all his suits made by a Chinatown tailor....would love to know which one, but this seems to be a secret! When I called a couple of them, it seemed like they charge almost as much if the customer supplies the fabric.
 
#7 ·
While Chinatown would be more fun, with those measurements, there's a good chance he'd fit in an off the rack suit and make things easier on you. I'm by no means an expert, but I'd guess he probably wears a 40 or 42, regular or possibly short, depending on length of torso. If so, that puts pants on the suit eithe rjust right, or within 2", in most american suits (they tend to come with a 6" drop, or in other words, waist size on pants is 6" less than chest size on jacket, so 40 jacket comes with 34" waist pants, or 42 jacket comes with 36" pants). You'll want to have someone measure him to be sure, but if that is the case, this will make your life a lot easier. Just less fun. :)

I can't give any suggestions on tailors in china town, sorry, bit far away.
 
#8 ·
Go to the 346 Madison Ave Brooks on Dec 26 before 1pm. Their standard 1818 suit (which is still a decent suit) will be $510 then. They'll know how to fit him. The only thing would be to have him tell the alterations tailor that he wants half break on the pant cuffs and to show 0.5inch of shirt cuff (and make sure he's wearing a shirt that fits how he wants all his shirt sleeves to fit). Avoid the BrooksEase and BrooksCool (the latter are summer suits anyways) lines.
 
#10 ·
The Brooks sale on the 26th is a good call. At his measurements the Madison model might actually be a pretty good fit. You may want to ask if there are any 'Golden Fleece' models marked down as well. I recently bought a very nice grey flannel one for about $500.

Also, consider heading to the Ralph Lauren Mansion for a big markdown on Polo suits. They are between $480 and $640 down from $1200 to $1600. They styling ranges from Brooks conservative to classic 30s to very fashion forward.
 
#11 ·
He sounds similar to my build-- 5'8" 170 lbs but a bit large in tush and 36" inch waist. I can wear a 40R in an American suit like Hickey Freeman or Brooks Bros Golden Fleece with letting the waist out a bit. I fit perfectly into a Zegna European 52 in jacket and can always let out trousers sufficiently. That should be your guideline.

Good luck with finding him just the right piece!
 
#12 ·
I would not go to Chinatown - i think brooks is the place. you could even go today and ask your salesperson to ring your items up on the 26th and get the sale prices.

If you fear that brooks is too old mannish for your boyfriend, i think you will be pleasantly surprised at what there is on offer there. they will make the suit fit well (see above comments on trouser break/1/2" of shirt showing) and you will happier in the end.

In the case of Chinatown, you are counting on the tailor understanding everything you want even when you don't really know what you want. What kind of fabric, what kind of cut, what kind of trousers, how do you want it to fit, etc. Let us know how it works out.
 
#13 ·
thanks!!

Thank you so much, all of you, for this excellent and detailed advice. Brooks 1818 it is....We're going tomorrow and they will ring me up on the 26th, saving me about $100, so that was a great tip. And thanks also for the advice about tailoring. I have the details about the pants and sleeves written down. Happy holidays to everyone!
 
#14 ·
Sounds like you're going to end up with gift for fiance that he'll be able to use and value for years. Good choice, both on original gift, and on being willing to admit you didn't know enough on your own and get help on it. The 1818 is a very nie chioce, I think he'll be happy with it, and you'll love way he looks. A well fitted suit is a great look on any guy surpassed only by a proper black tie ensemble (least, so female friends always tell me whenever I get out one of my suits). Enjoy
 
#17 ·
I had a lot of fun helping a friend get a nice suit a few months ago. I had a distinct advantage in being able to measure and have him try on jackets at different stores, though. We wound up with a Joseph Abboud charcoal glen plaid off ebay for less than $80, in a 43R. A couple of talbotts ties, a few nice dress shirts, one in a deep purple that is especially striking, and....et voila! My friend is now a paragon of sartorial splendor.

If you can get your fiance interested in a nicer look, you both might really enjoy this site!

Maveric
 
#18 ·
Thank you so much, all of you, for this excellent and detailed advice. Brooks 1818 it is....We're going tomorrow and they will ring me up on the 26th, saving me about $100, so that was a great tip. And thanks also for the advice about tailoring. I have the details about the pants and sleeves written down. Happy holidays to everyone!
Just an FYI, it looks like BB salesmen are willing to pre-sell stuff if you pick it up after the sale starts.
 
#19 ·
Ditto on that good decision on BB. While you might (and I say only might) run across a bargain at Century21, you really need some experience and knowledge. BB treats you right. Note that when you reach 100 posts on this board, you can have access to the "clubhouse" forum which will give you the codes for the BB corporate card-- 15% discount on all regular priced items.