I think you are trying to say 'gauntlet button'.

What do you expect from "Charles Tyrwhitt, Jermyn Street"? - they should be renamed Sanjay Shodi, Calcutta or Charlie Chan, Shanghai anyway depending on where they make their stuff.

 

'Gauntlet button' - thank you!

Sanjay Shodi!!! Awesome! :icon_smile_big:

 

rp.:

I just looked at mine and you're right NO gauntlet button!!!

That just saved them a few thousand pounds (Sterling)!!

Good observation.

 

Yes, omitting the gauntlet button reduces manufacturing costs, but it also might be the preference of customers.

I prefer my shirts to lack gauntlet buttons, and I specify the omission of said buttons on my MTM shirts.

And how shocked and disappointed could anyone be about a pair of missing buttons which do not harm the functionality of the shirt in any way? Many manufacturers of higher-end RTW shirts omit this button. How shocked could one be?

 

My "regular" RTW Turnbull & Asser shirts lack a gauntlet button, however my Sea Island Cotton ones have a gauntlet button. Also lacking buttons are my Harvie & Hudson and Hilditch & Key shirts. However, the H&H shirts which I had made-to-order, while lacking the buttons, do appear to have shorter openings.

 

losing your buttons

First of all, I have more than 40 Tyrwhitt shirts, so I am speaking from experience. I believe you're exagerating the fit of a tyrwhitt shirt. I am tall, but thin (6', 168 lbs) and the CT's fit me perfectly. CT 's also come in a tailored fit if you need to get rid of excess material. As for the gauntlet button, it is missing on most Jermyn Street shirts. They use what is called a butterfly gauntlet which tends to close up without a button. If you want a lot of extras, you should go bespoke, but it sounds to me like your complaining about things which you know nothing about. Return the shirt if you haven't altered it yet and check out other shirt makers. But son't lose your head and come down on CT shirts which do a pretty good job of shirt making, in fact, I prefer CT shirts to T&A RTW.

 

Anyway, the thing that has shocked and disappointed me, is that the sleeve placket of the shirt is completely blank - no gauntlet button hole and no gauntlet button. Astonishingly poor, in my opinion!

RP a sleeve placket or Gauntlet button(both terms are correct) is not a must have detail.
I always ask my customers if they want this detail. some do, some don't! If you are not the person who remembers to button this button, then I suggest leaving it off.
The savings to CT by leaving off this feature may save 25-50 cents if that much.

Shock and dissapointment would be for a missing cuff or buttons that fall off after the first wearing. Or even having the shirt shrink too much.
Lets put these things in perspective.

I am curious as to what size you bought, considering your issues with fit.

Carl

 

FWIW, the "classic" Jermyn Street style is to omit the gauntlet buttons, on the grounds that a properly made shirt does not need a special button to keep the sleeve plackets from gaping.

Thus, the RTW shirts that you will find at H&H, H&K, and T&A (the three shops that represent the cynosure of classicism on "The Street of Shirts," IMO) all come without gauntlet buttons, and this is very much by design and not a token of carelessness or corner-cutting.

Like dfloyd, I own quite a large number of CT shirts (as well as many from the big 3 purveyors cited above) and I prefer them without the gauntlet buttons, which I regard as extraneous at best and at worst merely something for nefarious commercial launderers to smash, crush, or sometimes knock off completely.

 

Anyway, the thing that has shocked and disappointed me, is that the sleeve placket of the shirt is completely blank - no gauntlet button hole and no gauntlet button. Astonishingly poor, in my opinion!

Much worse, I would think, if it had one but not the other. Missing both seems much the better alternative.

 

alexander help please

this thread is about a missing button on the shirt placket.
then everyone refers to a gauntlet button.
is it a placket button? as i have always known it.
is it really "gauntlet" or an affectation?
this bothers me as i dont know shirts and their terminology.

 

this thread is about a missing button on the shirt placket.
then everyone refers to a gauntlet button.
is it a placket button? as i have always known it.
is it really "gauntlet" or an affectation?
this bothers me as i dont know shirts and their terminology.

Here's what I have in The Encyclopedia of Men's Clothes:

The sleeve opening of all quality shirts have a button halfway up its length. Some shirt makers may skimp and not include this button. The buttonhole is cut through a gauntlet or sleeve placket, which is a miniature version of the front placket.

The word gauntlet is acceptable for meaning both 1) "glove" or "challenge" and 2) "a form of punishment in which lines of men beat a person forced to run between them". It comes from the Old French word gantelet, a diminutive of gant, meaning "glove".

The purpose of the long opening is so that gentlemen can roll up their sleeves if necessary and to make ironing the cuff easier. The button, which holds the opening closed should be fastened unless you have the sleeve rolled up.
​

There is also the Front Placket.

Front Placket The piece of material on the front of the shirt where the buttonholes are placed should be a separate piece of cloth sewn to the front, not just part of the shirt body folded over (French Front). The placket gives the shirt a definite centerline, and provides stiffness (often with an interlining sewn inside the placket) so that it is easier to put buttons through the buttonholes.

In addition to a Placket Front there are French Front and Fly Front styles.

The French Front is not a placket. The shirt material is folded under, usually around a piece of lining to reinforce the buttonholes, and then stitched down. This less expensive method is often used if the shirt is solid and there is no pattern to be matched. It does not hide the buttons like a Fly Front.

A placket front has a lip, since it's a separate piece of fabric; a French front does not, it is clean across.

A Fly Front covers the buttons with shirt fabric similar to a fly on pants that covers the zipper or button closure.
​

 

Yes, omitting the gauntlet button reduces manufacturing costs, but it also might be the preference of customers.

I prefer my shirts to lack gauntlet buttons, and I specify the omission of said buttons on my MTM shirts.

And how shocked and disappointed could anyone be about a pair of missing buttons which do not harm the functionality of the shirt in any way? Many manufacturers of higher-end RTW shirts omit this button. How shocked could one be?

Word...I too prefer to have this button left out when I have my shirts made...the original post did make me laugh though...if that's all it takes for this guy to be shocked...then LMAO!!!

 

I think some replies to rp are a bit harsh. If you really want a - shall we say " sleeve button" to avoid confusion then CT shirts are not for you. But I would add my support for them to what has already been said. It is indeed very common for Jermyn Street makers ( not that many make them on Jermyn Street anymore - more likely China or Egypt) not to add such a button. I associate such a button with casual shirts in any case although CT seem to leave them off their casual shirts too. Not everyone likes the feel of this button when the shirt is worn - personally I don't mind either way. What matters to me is quality of fabric, fit and longevity - all of which CT shirts score highly on IMHO. I have lots of other makes and examined makes I don't have and find it hard to find better quality shirts. I am not so convinced however by their cashmere knitwear - rather thin for double ply and a bit course feeling compared to other makes I have - like Pakeman Catto and Carter, Landsend and Orvis. Also had a problem this year with jeans - the leather patch on the back bleeds onto the fabric!

LM

 

Here's what I have in The Encyclopedia of Men's Clothes:

The sleeve opening of all quality shirts have a button halfway up its length. ​

​

I respectfully but vigorously disagree with this claim--unless one wants to go to the implausible length of denying that T&A, H&K, and H&H stock "quality" shirts, I can't see how a statement this categorical can be true.

Also, the sentence contains a subject-verb disagreement. (Sorry to be a grammar fascist!)

 

What shocked me, was not the lack of the gauntlet button, but rather, the omission of any mention, on the website, that the shirt would not include the button.

An inadequate product description is my complaint.

Nonetheless, I duly emailed Charles Thrwitt customer service about the issue. Explaining that I was disappointed that I was not made to expect a shirt with no gauntlet button. And the cost I had incurred in adding the button myself.

The helpful advisor acknolwedge my email within the hour and profusely apologised for the inconvenience which the lack of button had caused me!

The adviser attributed the lack of gauntlet button to an 'unforseen quality control oversight', and reassured me that the shirt should have been checked for this button before it was sent to me.

Furthermore, as an apology from Mr Thyrwitt, the adviser notified that my account would be creditted with £10 without delay.

I can copy and paste the email, if it would be of interest.

So it would appear that Mr Thyrwitt agreed with me!

Excellent customer service, I would say! :icon_smile:

 

mine have a plackett

 

I have a Kiton shirt without.

 

first, there is no Mr.Tyrwitt.
Nick Wheeler
Founder, Charles Tyrwhitt Shirts



Second why on earth would a company post on their website that they do not make shirts with a sleeve placket button. It is not superfluous like a tail gusset.
It would be like tCT advertising that their 100/2 broadcloth is made in India or Turkey. Why add information that could be seen as a negitive.


The credit is a nice way of keeping you as a customer. I doubt they want to see that shirt back in their warehouse again.
I doubt it was a quality control issue. someone made a decesion to eliminate the feature.

Carl

 

first, there is no Mr.Tyrwitt.
Nick Wheeler
Founder, Charles Tyrwhitt Shirts

Full name (supposedly): Nicholas Charles Tyrwhitt Wheeler.

It would be like tCT advertising that their 100/2 broadcloth is made in India or Turkey. Why add information that could be seen as a negitive.

Interestingly, Arnys had a refulgent bit of PR in a recent issue of Monsieur magazine to the effect that it had obtained some of the finest cotton in the world, only for its custom shirt program, from a company named Soktas -- which is Turkish.

-- RJmaven

 

Soktas makes very fine fabric. There is another mill in Turkey, Name escapes me at the moment, that turns out a 180/2 sirus weave, not a true 180/2, but the finishing is fantastic.

So there is no crime in using fabric from Turkey and India. The public wants to know if the fabric on their shirts is made in Italy or Switzerland. they would rather not know of other countries.

 

[/indent]I respectfully but vigorously disagree with this claim--unless one wants to go to the implausible length of denying that T&A, H&K, and H&H stock "quality" shirts, I can't see how a statement this categorical can be true.

Also, the sentence contains a subject-verb disagreement. (Sorry to be a grammar fascist!)

PJC in NoVa:

You leave my grandma out of this! :icon_smile_big:

How about:

The sleeve openings of all quality shirts have a button halfway up its length.
​

If the length of the sleeve openings are long enough to fulfill their functions - rolling up the sleeves and the proper ironings of the cuffs, a placket button is necessary to keep the openings closed during normal wear.

 

ct shirts: searching for the missing button.

As a previous thread stated, there is no Mr. Tyrwhitt. Tyrwhitt is an old English name. The couple in charge of the future QE1 when she was kept prisoner in the Tower had the surname of Tyrwhitt. They were catholic, but they treated the future Queen very well so they were not mistreated by QE1 after she was placed on the throne following the death of her half sister, Bloody Mary. The Tyrwhitts sired 21 children. The owner of CT shirts, Nicholas Wheeler, could possibly be of their progeny. the shirt company is named after his grandfather.

But to the question at hand: the missing buttons is not a quality control problem. CT Shirts have never had a gusset button, which really isn't needed with the butterfly gauntet used.

 

Sorry, gentlemen, but this thread sucks, as my American friends would say.

 

Firstly, our German friend is correct, this thread sucks!

That out of the way, I have a shirt by Yves Saint-Laurent that lacks a "gauntlet" button. But it also puckers at the seams... I can't tell if this is a fashion detail, as it occasionally is, or just poor handiwork. I love my Brooks infinitely more. My suits are another matter, but my shirts are all American at heart, even if they're made in Malaysia. (Not that there's anything WRONG with that... :icon_smile_big

I must stop posting on this forum, I fear I ramble far too much.

 

In my opinion, a shirt gauntlet without a button will gape.

And I think that gaping gauntlet is unsightly.

I am glad that my altered 'ctshirt' now has a gauntlet button.