I am asking about the overall length of a jacket. I read that the jacket should meet or cover the unseen of my pants. However, at 5'7", this makes my torso look elongated and disproportionate. Where should my jacket reach to if not the inseam?
I have some thrifted jackets that fit well enough in the shoulders, but seem to have this effect as they reach the inseam.
There is a quick and easy way to determine if the jacket length fits you or too long/short. Remember that you need two measurements of vertical lengths: Nape (base of neck) to Hem (N2H) and Hem to Floor (H2F). The jacket length when measuring on a flat surface can be used as a guideline, but because of the curvature at the back that does not directly translated into vertical distance. The key lengths is the vertical lengths between these three points.
What you need are:
* a solid stick (broom stick, straight edge, anything that does not bend and you can hold it easily with your hand) that is longer than 3 feet or more. A 3 feet solid ruler is excellent for this use. If you are taller than 80" (6'8") get a longer stick.
* some post-it to mark the points (optional) or permanent marker if you will. No need for this if you have the ruler.
* a good mirror so that you can see both jacket hem and shoulder
1. With jacket on, stand in front of the mirror and put the stick besides your hip, stick points on the floor and place it as plumbed as possible. As plumbed means the stick should stand vertically, both in x and y axes. There is no need to cheat so just try your best.
2. With the stick plumbed. mark the location where your jacket hem is on the stick. This is the vertical length of Hem to Floor (H2F). You can use Post-It or marker to mark this point. You can also measure it using tape ruler or whatever.
3. Now, flip the stick upward and use your finger along the mark so that it aligns the hem. Keep the stick as plumbed as possible. Observe the height of the point of the stick to see if it is near or at your Nape (base of neck). If the point of stick is above your Nape, that means the Nape to Hem distance is shorter than Hem to Floor distance, thus the jacket is shorter than your ideal length, and vise versa.
4. Bonus point: you can also use this method to gauge your Nape to Hem distance by raising or lower the stick, while keeping it plumbed. Add the two distances together you have your Nape to Floor distance. Or get someone to help you to mark the Nape point on a door frame or something and measure it.
With this method you can easily determine if the jacket length is short, equal, or longer than the defined ideal length. The ideal length is defined as 1/2 of the Nape to Floor vertical distance. Then you can use the jacket length measured on a flat surface to determine the corresponding relationship between how the jacket length translates on *your body*. Try this with some jackets of various lengths, or with the same jacket with chalk mark for different length, you can formulate your own opinion about what your ideal jacket length is and the range to play around with it. Sometime you might want to have a shorter or longer jacket. A +/- 1 inch should be fine. More than that it becomes apparent that the jacket is too long or too short.
Hope this will help you to improve your search on your ideal fit.