[Sir Kurokodairu]

Hi All,

I've read many online guides, but don't recall any objective guidelines as to precisely where the suit jacket shoulder pads should end (or where the sleeves should drop down from), leaving considerable guesswork to be done. I can think of two objective points on the shoulders from which the shoulder width can base on: (1) as illustrated below, where Line A and Line B meets (Point AB), which is where the shoulder starts to curve down and the shoulder pad starts to extend beyond the shoulder without the shoulder's support, or "airborne' if you will, and (2) where Line B meets Line C (Point BC), which is the point that is vertically aligned with the "edge of deltoid" as illustrated - that is, the point which if the sleeve dropped down from, the edge of the deltoid (the part of the shoulder muscle that extends furthest out horizontally) would just kiss the edge of the sleeves, such that the sleeves would lay completely straight vertically (at least at the shoulder's region, ignoring below the shoulder).

We've seen some fashionable "shrunken" suits where the shoulder starts at approximately Point AB, or even wider on Line B but on the narrower side of it, such as some of the James Bond suits in Skyfall (2012) and Spectre (2015).

My questions are:

1. Generally speaking, what do you consider to be the "good" range of where the shoulder pads should end?
2. Where do you consider to be the optimal point? Why?
3. If someone wanted to maximize the width of the jacket's shoulders without adverse effects (such as the shoulder pads slumping/falling down over time from overextending beyond Point AB), what would be the furthest point to end the shoulder pads? Note: Line B would be longer on some people than others, such as with a more muscular shoulder (illustrated by the lower illustration of the same model).

 

[Matt S]

There's no correct answer here. Anywhere from point AB to point BC is acceptable on most people. The ideal width is ultimately due to the shape of the jacket's shoulder, how much padding it has, how much roping it has, the shape of the person, the shape of the person's shoulder, the size of the person's head, how lean or muscular they are. What is fashionable makes a difference too. You can't have one answer for everyone.

 

[Flanderian]

There's no correct answer here. Anywhere from point AB to point BC is acceptable on most people. The ideal width is ultimately due to the shape of the jacket's shoulder, how much padding it has, how much roping it has, the shape of the person, the shape of the person's shoulder, the size of the person's head, how lean or muscular they are. What is fashionable makes a difference too. You can't have one answer for everyone.

+1!

Suits are not leotards. I.e., the function of a tailored jacket is to enhance one's appearance, not replicate it.

 

[Woofa]

The above responses may be correct. But, let me take this opportunity to appreciate your well thought out post and diagrams. Nice job.👍. Unfortunately, I know that I look nothing like the photos. 😩. But a good jacket should help to hide my inferior physique.

 

[215339]

I used to go for a shoulder that was 2/3 of the way down line A, right at the far top of the deltoid.

After trying on a looser jacket that's closer to AB and slightly beyond, I don't think I can go back. It has a nicer silhouette and is more comfortable as well.

Slight extended shoulder looks great on me.

I think when extended shoulders get into C territory they start looking ridiculous. This is especially noticeable when you see someone sit down or round their shoulders.

 

[Sir Kurokodairu]

I didn't truly believe there was a specific answer that fits everyone, but I wanted to get a range of answers as well as other insights one might not have thought of to help increase the certainty of what is a "good/acceptable" range.

I suppose Line A would be too narrow to look good for almost everyone, and Line C would be too wide for almost everyone.

One shoulder width I was relatively uncertain of is one which ends at exactly Point BC, that given the correct circumstances (degree of padding, person's shoulder shape and size, etc.), whether this could look good, or it would look too wide for most people/cases.

 

[215339]

Well done quantifying all of this by the way.

I'm a visual person, and I'm sure many others are as well. Words never convey enough for me.

I didn't truly believe there was a specific answer that fits everyone, but I wanted to get a range of answers as well as other insights one might not have thought of to help increase the certainty of what is a "good/acceptable" range.

I suppose Line A would be too narrow to look good for almost everyone, and Line C would be too wide for almost everyone.

One shoulder width I was relatively uncertain of is one which ends at exactly Point BC, that given the correct circumstances (degree of padding, person's shoulder shape and size, etc.), whether this could look good, or it would look too wide for most people/cases.

BC Reminds me of Daniel Day Lewis in Phantom Thread, perhaps a bit bigger.