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How essential is it to show shirt cuff?

37K views 35 replies 23 participants last post by  Odradek  
#1 ·
So I recently got my suit altered and asked the tailor to show at least 1/4 - 1/2 an inch of shirt sleeve. Although the tailor had nicely shortened the jacket sleeves, the shirt sleeves were still hidden. I had already gone back a second time but he only shortened it slightly and there is still barely any visible cuff.

My question is, should I be worried about this minor detail given the fact that the jacket sleeves are the correct length? My jacket sleeves basically look identical to the picture of Andy in the top left corner of this web page.

Cheers.
 
#2 · (Edited)
Depends on what you mean by "essential", but it certainly would be ideal to show the amount of cuff you mention. If you instructed your tailor to maker the alteration a certain way, then they should fix it at no cost.

I am assuming you wore the appropriate dress shirt to the tailor when you tried the jacket on prior to alteration so they could assess what they needed to do.

I'll add that the sleeves are not the correct length if they are not showing the amount of cuff you want...unless the problem is actually with the length of your shirt sleeves.
 
#3 ·
^^^ My first thought was that the shirt sleeve length might be the issue. huhjunn were you wearing one of your typical dress shirts when you asked for the suit jacket sleeves to be shortened? I find it's pretty easy to eyeball the length once the tailor pins the sleeves and see for yourself how much shirt cuff is showing.
 
#4 ·
Well, IMO showing 1/4-1/2" of shirt cuff is a very nice touch.

Even if the coat sleeves & shirt sleeves are the correct length, the shirt sleeve can "ride" up, thereby defeating your attempts to show some cuff. Assuming your tailor has your coat sleeves correct, I would make sure your shirt sleeves are the correct length.

How the Sleeve Length Should Fit
https://propercloth.com/reference/how-the-sleeve-length-should-fit/
 
#5 ·
It's a happy accident. I'm right at 32.5". I have some 32" shirts and some 32/33". And different brands aren't quite the same. Nor can I shorten a jacket with working buttons very much. I'm happy with 1/4-3/8th" showing, but I can live with none rather than remembering which jacket shows more, less or no cuff.
 
#8 ·
It's a bit strange that after some alterations, the shirt cuff is still not visibly showing on your suit.

As some forum members may have suggested, could be the shirt sleeves. It happens to me sometimes but I always try to pull off the sleeves of the shirt after putting on the suit jacket.
The term is "shoot the cuffs".
 
#13 ·
It's because the tailor doesn't believe that showing a cuff is a good look. Just say something like, "I know you don't like to show some cuff, but if you don't do it right I will keep coming back..."
Bingo! I have had the same issue at several alteration places in my locale. It is next to impossible have them deviate from no cuff showing and full break on the trousers because that is what the general populace expects.

DXR
 
#15 ·
It's because the tailor doesn't believe that showing a cuff is a good look. Just say something like, "I know you don't like to show some cuff, but if you don't do it right I will keep coming back..."
Bingo! I have had the same issue at several alteration places in my locale. It is next to impossible have them deviate from no cuff showing and full break on the trousers because that is what the general populace expects.

DXR
I have the same problem. Just had two jackets in for alterations getting the sleeves shortened, and I know on one of them the sleeves are still too long. Just about acceptable, but I really would have liked them a hair shorter.

Same issue with trousers and for that reason I'm looking for another tailor to try. Every pair I've had cuffed with the current tailors is still far too long for me. It all seems to go okay when I try them on to have the hem pinned up, but when I get them back they seem too long. Since I live miles away, and a trip into London is about and hour and a quarter on the train, I have been getting things collected by either my wife or my brother, so never get to try them on at the tailors.
Need to find competent and experienced alterations tailors out here west of London, but they are thin on the ground.
 
#16 ·
I've "shot the cuffs" without any success. Looks like I will have to make another hour long trip via public transit to the tailors. I'll call first to make sure they are willing to do a redo. Thanks for the advice everyone!
Try to get him to fix it. You may also want to shop around for another tailor. The last time I moved, I had to test three or four new tailors before I found one who was good. Oddly enough, the most expensive tailor I tried was the worst. :confused2:
 
#19 ·
That Proper Cloth article is scary. A shirt maker that doesn't know the right length of a shirt sleeve. Halfway down the hand? Sounds easier for the shirtmaker than manufacturing a proper length. Why would a shirt cuff end anywhere other than at the wrist?
Getting the proper sleeve length is like pulling teeth in my experience. Anything that requires precision is too much for some people.
 
#20 · (Edited)
I was about to post this same question a few days ago as I like to show a little cuff but wasn't quiet able to. But, I brought it up with my tailor when I went to see him last Friday about making a sportcoat. He said in my case it was due to the shirt sleeve length and recommended I get shirts with 35" sleeves. Many of my sleeves are shorter than that. The ones that are around that length do better if I hold onto the end of the sleeve when putting on the jacket. Never knew that was called shooting the cuff until this thread. Unless I do that, the friction between the sleeve and the jacket lining is enough to keep the cuff hidden.
 
#21 ·
That Proper Cloth article is scary. A shirt maker that doesn't know the right length of a shirt sleeve. Halfway down the hand? Sounds easier for the shirtmaker than manufacturing a proper length. Why would a shirt cuff end anywhere other than at the wrist?
Getting the proper sleeve length is like pulling teeth in my experience. Anything that requires precision is too much for some people.
I was wondering about this myself actually. I've seen another article (from primermagazine IIRC) that recommends the same thing. That we get longer sleeves with properly fitting cuffs to avoid the cuffs riding up your arms when you bend your elbow. I was going to try it the next time I buy new shirts. But wouldn't this make your sleeves untidy when you have your arms straight? There would be creases because of the extra material, right?
 
#22 · (Edited)
I was wondering about this myself actually. I've seen another article (from primermagazine IIRC) that recommends the same thing. That we get longer sleeves with properly fitting cuffs to avoid the cuffs riding up your arms when you bend your elbow. I was going to try it the next time I buy new shirts. But wouldn't this make your sleeves untidy when you have your arms straight? There would be creases because of the extra material, right?
OK Joe Boston and sethblack. You're driving yourselves into a total state of confusion, by misinterpreting what was said on the Proper Cloth article. They mention that a sleeve of the proper length for you when buttoned will fall at the wrist. When the cuff is unbuttoned and no longer able to hold the shirt up, the sleeve will fall down to your first knuckle of your thumb, if the shirt is properly cut. If this was not done, the shirt would ride up your arm as soon as you lifted you arm.

Take any well fitting shirt you have, put it on, and unbutton the cuff. Let it fall straight down. It should cover the top of your hand ending at the first knuckle of the thumb. The cuff should be tight enough to accommodate your watch, and be held up by your wrist. Some manufacturers have lax cuffs and even though you buy the right size sleeve, they hang too low. This is simply resolved by moving the button to tighten the wrist to a normal diameter.

You two have been posting recently and seem to be missing some of what has been explained in various threads. I will go back to the drop thread and try again to clarify things, though The Barbaron did a fine job.
 
#23 ·
Proper Cloth's preferred method is perfectly valid, as is having a larger cuff with a slightly shorter overall length. Just two different schools of thought on the matter.
 
#24 · (Edited)
OK Joe Boston and sethblack. You're driving yourselves into a total state of confusion, by misinterpreting what was said on the Proper Cloth article. They mention that a sleeve of the proper length for you when buttoned will fall at the wrist. When the cuff is unbuttoned and no longer able to hold the shirt up, the sleeve will fall down to your first knuckle of your thumb, if the shirt is properly cut. If this was not done, the shirt would ride up your arm as soon as you lifted you arm.

Take any well fitting shirt you have, put it on, and unbutton the cuff. Let it fall straight down. It should cover the top of your hand ending at the first knuckle of the thumb. The cuff should be tight enough to accommodate your watch, and be held up by your wrist. Somme manufacturers have lax cuffs and even though you buy the right size sleeve, they hang to low. This is simply resolved by moving the button to tighten the wrist to a normal diameter.

You two have been posting recently and seem to be missing some of what has been explained in various threads. I will go back to the drop thread and try again to clarify things, though The Barbaron did a fine job.
Right! Thanks for the clarification momsdoc. That was actually my interpretation of the article as well. I was just wondering if doing it this way will make the extra material in the sleeves look untidy. But I guess the difference in length shouldn't be too much. I'll keep that in mind when I size my shirts from now on.

I haven't read the drop thread actually (the "Drop" question thread, right?). Was there already a discussion about this? I will have a look then.
 
#25 · (Edited)


Edit: I got a family member to pull down the cuffs and the sleeve jacket so that everything was evened out. That's the end result. Sorry for the floating torso, I was wearing shorts and I did not tuck in my shirt so I just painted it out horribly.

Thoughts on whether or not I should get them re-altered (i.e. shorten jacket sleeves). This will be my third trip back for a free redo.
 

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#26 ·
Just looking at the sleeves and where they terminate, I think you have the right length. Any further and you'll be riding up your forearm.

I'm wondering if the problem lies not in the jacket sleeves but in the shirt sleeves. I appears as though the shirt sleeves are too short.

Don't alter the jacket based on the shirt. Alter it based on your arm length.