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Help with finding a Harris Tweed jacket

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17K views 20 replies 15 participants last post by  WouldaShoulda  
#1 ·
Greetings, Fellow Gentlemen.

I wonder if some of you could help me out with finding a reasonably-priced, OTR Harris Tweed jacket. I live in the Seattle area. To my knowledge, there aren't any traditional (and affordable) men's clothing stores around. The selection at BB is fairly limited. I like the fit of their Harris Tweed Crow's Foot jacket. But the cloth pattern is a little unusual for my taste. The color is fine. Nordstrom will have some tweed jackets in a couple of weeks. But the sales clerk told me those jackets are fused, not fully canvassed.

So here are my questions:
1. What is considered the traditional pattern and color for a Harris Tweed jacket?
2. What features are considered traditional English? Is the 3-button style considered English?
3. Does it matter much if the jacket is fused?
4. If I am willing to spend up to $600, where can I find a good OTR tweed jacket?
5. Do you know of any good stores in Portland, OR and Vancouver?

Many thanks in advance.

The Gentle Cheetah
 
#2 ·
Around these parts (Sacramento) the only Harris tweed jacket I found was at the Cable Car Clothiers in SF. $1500+
And I hear that Harris Tweed may be a dying fabric. It has to be hand-loomed in cottages by crofters (tenant farmers) as a source of extra income. These are dying out as far as I can determine.
If you're not adverse to used clothing, you'd be amazed at the number of really good Harris Tweed jackets you can find in thrift shops. Over the years I've been getting them in such places. In the '70s I got one like new for $0.85! Finally wore it to a frazzle. Since then I've seen many, almost all in excellent condition. Unfortunately not every one is a good fit, but I've picket up a few over the years and most recently I got an extra heavy hacking jacket from Dunn & Co. (no longer in business) of London. Like new and it's a dandy. I paid $4.00 at the Goodwill. A perfect fit. And personally, I feel pretty good at getting what amounts to a $1500 + coat for $4.00.
So maybe if you check around thrift shops you will find a real gem. Good Luck. Carl
 
#5 ·
VWDolly, a member here, has a nice selection of tweeds, Bookster has an ebay shop as well as their MTMs, and as Barelli says, they show up with some regularity at the "better" thrifts. I picked up a Jos. Bank at a thrift that I really have no complaints with as a knockaround, though it's not in the league with my Booksters
 
#6 ·
I just got a great jacket from American Suit Store and it was made by Hardwick (more later today). Check the prices!

Image


and some vintage jackets from Vintage Whistles in the UK

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There is a special 5% discount for AAAC members on your first order Just enter code ANDY5 at checkout.

All of these were herringbone Harris Tweed.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Orvis, Ben Silver, Oconnell's

You might also try Orvis, Ben Silver, and Oconnell's.

I have gotten several Harris tweed jackets from Orvis over the years. I am still wearing one that is about 20 years old. I like it well enough that I've had it relined and tailored to fit better than it did OTR. I have gotten suits from Ben Silver that I like very much. I would expect their Harris tweeds to be high quality, but on the expensive side. (Correction) Actually, I am wearing a Ben Silver Harris tweed today. I got it on sale. It has a lively plaid and is a bit more stylish and less rustic than many Harris tweeds I have seen. I had the shoulders narrowed and a couple of other alterations. It fits well and looks good with Levi's or slacks. Have not yet gotten a jacket from Occonnell's, but it is just a matter of time. Their service has, so far, been quite good.

The standard pattern, if you will, is some sort of gray herringbone. However, there are many really engaging patterns that are worth considering. It would repay your effort to have a look at Bookster's web site. You can easily order swatches of cloth online and they arrive quickly via Royal Mail. It is likely that I will order a jacket from them in the near but uncertain future.

Hope this is helpful.
Gurdon
 
#8 · (Edited)
I just ordered two Hardwick jackets from Carl at: https://www.menssuitseparates.com/

The Harris Tweed I ordered is a black/white herringbone with a couple of special features and it ran me $314.- which included a 50% up-charge for the custom features. The base price for a two button, three button, or even a 3/2 sack is $209.-! In my opinion that's not too bad for an American made genuine Harris Tweed.

The other jacket is a super 120's merino wool and it's base price was $179.- before the custom features I specified.

Granted the selection of fabrics is limited but all things considered I think it's a true bargain.
 
#9 ·
To respond to the OP's question about fusing, almost every jacket sold in the US is either fully fused or half fused. Fifteen years ago one could readily find full canvas jackets but now that is not the case. The most common full canvass suit in the US today are BB's Golden Fleece. If the Nordstrom SA showed you a full canvas and you pinched the chest you could feel the difference. Fusing technique today is far better than in the past but the full canvas construction still feels softer. This advantage in softer construction is made largely irrelevant when, instead of a fine, light, hard finished worsted, the jacket is of heavier, rougher Harris Tweed.
 
#10 ·
So here are my questions:
1. What is considered the traditional pattern and color for a Harris Tweed jacket?
2. What features are considered traditional English? Is the 3-button style considered English?
3. Does it matter much if the jacket is fused?
4. If I am willing to spend up to $600, where can I find a good OTR tweed jacket?
5. Do you know of any good stores in Portland, OR and Vancouver?
1. There are many.
2. There are also many, but English tailoring tends to be structured and fitted. And includes both 2 and 3 button cuts.
3. Yes, but it's hard to find any that aren't.
4. See below.
5. Sorry, no.

As mentioned, O'Connells has lovely Harris Tweed but I think they're almost $900 now. Dtto, Ben Silver, and Orvis no longer carries any.

If you are of slender to average build, and want a true English cut and made jacket within the price range you describe, I would also suggest Bookster. They have an outstanding selection of tweed, and have been reported upon favorably. But understand these are very structured and fitted jakets.

https://www.tweed-jacket.com/
 
#11 ·
VWDolly, a member here, has a nice selection of tweeds, Bookster has an ebay shop as well as their MTMs, and as Barelli says, they show up with some regularity at the "better" thrifts. I picked up a Jos. Bank at a thrift that I really have no complaints with as a knockaround, though it's not in the league with my Booksters
I'm with you. eBay always has tons of Harris Tweed for under $100, quite often under $50. And you don't have to worry about lapel sizes or crazy shoulders or weird cuts as much as you might with other items because the tweed sport coat is kind of a classic style that doesn't change as much with trends. Plus, if it looks a little worn, or out-dated, or even a little cheap (within reason of course) to me, that's part of the charm. I like having a sport coat that I don't mind wearing in situations where it might get a little dirty. Especially in fall where you end up not anticipating weather changes and might end up having to take them off and carry around. I wear them to work on casual days as well.

Like you said, it's not going to be in the league with a new jacket from a fine maker but they are fun to have in the right casual situation.
 
#13 ·
^^ I'll hold back on expressing too much enthusiasm until I receive the jackets. But after asking quite a few questions about the specifics of how the jackets are constructed and what my options are I'm fairly optimistic.

We'll see in six weeks or less.
 
#14 ·
I've got 4 Hardwick jackets and, or, blazers. The fabric quality, stitching, buttons, fit etc... is very good. You will like yours.
^^ I'll hold back on expressing too much enthusiasm until I receive the jackets. But after asking quite a few questions about the specifics of how the jackets are constructed and what my options are I'm fairly optimistic.

We'll see in six weeks or less.
 
#15 · (Edited)
1. What is considered the traditional pattern and color for a Harris Tweed jacket? - There are many, I have over 300 images of different Harris Tweed fabrics on my blog that have been produced over the years and that is only a fraction of them.

2. What features are considered traditional English? Is the 3-button style considered English? - As previously discussed 2 & 3 button are worn, a more fitted cut is also popular.

3. Does it matter much if the jacket is fused? - Hard to find ones that are not...

4. If I am willing to spend up to $600, where can I find a good OTR tweed jacket? - As mentioned by Andy we offer some superb near new Harris Tweed jackets on our website @ around just £59 gbp, the selection of cloths available is huge, far larger than the high street and at a fraction of the price. :icon_smile: