Hi Eliot,

Great choice, glad you're happy with the bag and now that you mention it I agree about the brassware.

After much debate on the best way to condition and break-in the bag, I have decided to just use it for a few months and see how it looks. I did use RM Williams saddle dressing on the sides when I first got it to help it open up a little but other than that I'm just going for the natural process.

Please do post pics when you get the SAB, that would be very interesting.

Cheers,

TB

 

Don't have one. As I recall, they're bridle leather. That means the leather has been impregnated with a wax and oil formula. To a degree, it's self-lubricating. Does Filson offer a bridle leather dressing? Is there a saddle/tack shop nearby? It may eventually require a tack shop type of dressing. It will probably develop a more interesting patina without babying. Rub it briskly with a clean wash cloth once a month. It ain't supposed to be too dressy.

 

Is it a bad idea to use moist cloth?

I just noticed that the upper and lower halves of the key lock are not perfectly aligned; the lower half, where the key goes into, is very slightly but noticeably slanted, by a degree or two. It doesn't hinder the locking mechanism and doesn't really hurt the look, though.

 

Is it a bad idea to use moist cloth?

I just noticed that the upper and lower halves of the key lock are not perfectly aligned; the lower half, where the key goes into, is very slightly but noticeably slanted, by a degree or two. It doesn't hinder the locking mechanism and doesn't really hurt the look, though.

Filson make a big deal of it being vegetable tanned bridle leather. As such, the leather was originally made to withstand both stress and the adverse effects of equine perspiration. It ain't named a "field satchel" as a coy marketing ploy appealing to Oprahites out to view autumnal foliage whilst perambulating a park pathway. Itza butch bag. Wipe it with a clean damp cloth. Occassionally use some saddle soap if required. You might experiment with the Coach goo on the bottom within the accordion(sp?) folds. Once again, if there is a tack shop available without too much inconvenience, schlep it over and ask their opinion of the proper maintenance. Try not to make it too precious. It's gonna get scratched and dented, added character. Patina. When it gets scratched, rub your thumb against your unwashed forehead and then rub your thumb into the leather. Then rub the spot with a clean, dry wash cloth. You'd think at $800 they'd provide some clue as to care. You may want to reserve the angst for the SAB.

 

I just noticed that the upper and lower halves of the key lock are not perfectly aligned; the lower half, where the key goes into, is very slightly but noticeably slanted, by a degree or two. It doesn't hinder the locking mechanism and doesn't really hurt the look, though.

As you can see from the pics in my thread, mine is like this too. It doesn't really bother me but I'd be interested to see yours - can you post some pictures please?

 

I highly recommend Fiebing's Leather balm with atom wax for bridle leather...it's great stuff. You can find it with a search on google.

 

I have found that RM Williams Leather Conditioner has been good for my bag and its exposure to the elements has been minimal, due to the lack of rain this past winter, but it keeps the bag looking good.

 

One other suggestion, Leather Therapy--specifically designed for tack (ie, bridle leather). I've been pleased with it.

 

It's coming!

Thanks to the above three gentlemen--I'll look into all your suggestions.

I got a nice surprise in the inbox yesterday. Apparently my SAB briefcase is now complete and is currently on its way here. (This is quicker than I expected; website said 12-16 weeks, but mine was finished in just 8. I spoke to the customer manager of SAB and she says 8-10 weeks is the norm.) I'm supposed to get it on Monday or Tuesday. Haven't been so excited about a personal accessory in a long time.

My old digital camera is not working unfortunately.. but I'll try to post pictures of both the Filson and the SAB somehow.

 

One other suggestion, Leather Therapy--specifically designed for tack (ie, bridle leather). I've been pleased with it.

What should I get? "Restorer" and "Wash" should be enough, shouldn't they?

BTW, aside from the difficulty when stretching the compartments, I'm actually quite liking the stiffness of the leather. It makes the briefcase so satisfyingly firm and solid. These leather care products won't make the bridle hide too flexible, I hope? It will still retain form and strength, right? Perhaps I should apply the conditioner just to the foldings of the "accordion"?

 

Clean and condition the satchel with any good product for horse tack and it'll all be good. If you want to waterproof it use sno seal, stuff works great. I use it on my Filson aviator, wallets and straps on my bags. My Filson stuff tends to be used in all kinds of nasty weather.

 

What should I get? "Restorer" and "Wash" should be enough, shouldn't they?

I have the "Restorer & Conditioner" (the original Leather Therapy, I think) and also the "Wash". The Restorer/Conditioner is the top priority.

 

Hey Alan, how's life treating you? Looks like I found my next blog to advertise on.

 

I have had my field satchel for almost seven years now, use it almost every day, and can say that it really doesn't require much care other than a wipe down with a damp sponge and a good brushing now and then.

When I called Filson to ask (and I agree with jamgood, you would think they would be more explicit about the care of their most expensive accessory), they recommended their boot oil, which I already had and which works well. Whenever Congress is in recess and I don't need my bag, I undo the straps and give it all a good rub down with that, let it dry a day or two, wipe it down and brush it up -it always looks brand-new afterwards (though the stiffness has mellowed out quite a bit over the years - for better and for worse).

I have also used Pecard's, which works just as well but is a little easier to control than the boot oil (which is pretty thin stuff - the consistency of vegetable oil -the leather just drinks it up) but does require a little more elbow grease to rub in well. I'm sure any other similar products such as Lexol, Nikwax, Montana Pitch Blend, etc. would work just as well. I have tried dark brown Meltonian shoe polish, but it doesn't really seem to be any shinier for the effort.

I can't imagine too many instances where a briefcase would actually get dirty enough to need to wash it, particularly as the leather is so dark, but have used plain old saddle soap on my bridle leather belts and that does the trick.

One note of caution, you really need to make certain that whatever you use, you rub and brush the bag down well as any excess oil can rub off onto light-colored clothing -seersucker & poplin suits, khakis, Burberrys and what have you, on the shoulders and hip where the bag and strap touch. Not impossible to get out, but a pain nonetheless.

The the bag will get little scratches over time, and if the bag is well-oiled you can rub them out, or use a little dressing and do the same. The enemy of Filson's bridle leather finish is adhesive tape. I checked my bag once at a formal soiree and they taped the claim number on with masking tape, which actually pulled off the finish once removed -a mark that has faded over time. A similar incident with clear scotch tape turned out the same.

Also, the finish does flake off in the high-wear areas over time and as the bag has aged, it seems to require more frequent conditioning to keep those spots dark and not looking dry. If you do that, the leather gets a nice lighter reddish burnish instead of looking worn-out.

Over time the bag has really held up well, feels more like an old friend as the boxy stiffness has given way to a sturdy softness, and still elicits compliments constantly.

However I do have two small quibbles:

1. The small inner pocket slot has never really stretched out enough to be of much use and cards and pens really get stuck in there (though the newer model I saw last fall seems to have addressed that with a much enlarged pocket).

2. Shockingly, the hardware is brass-plated and not solid brass. The brassiness fades to more of a bronze, then copper, and finally on the rings and connectors has worn into a steel-colored core. It doesn't look bad perse, the finish now looks a little antiqued, but their belts have solid roller buckles that haven't on mine worn at all for over 10 years, so I don't quite understand why they wouldn't go whole hog with their briefcase hardware.

I still haven't seen a briefcase that looks as good as the Filson for any price and can't imagine any would be more durable...

 

My questions:

(1) What conditioner, cleaner and/or other leather care products should I get?

(2) I have Coach's leather conditioner & cleaner, which I bought seven years ago with my old bag and haven't touched since. Will these do?

(3) Am I supposed to treat the inside as well?

(4) How can I facilitate the breaking-in process? The bag is indeed as stiff as you all said.

(5) But in a way, I really like the stiffness because the bag always holds its shape perfectly. It will still be firm enough to do this after it's been loosened up, right?

Just reread your post and realized I hadn't really addressed your questions directly:

1. I would ultimately recommend Pecard's over the boot oil, though any similar products would do. The boot oil looks spotty until it dries (can be a few days) unless you apply it evenly. Also, Pecards is just good stuff that can be used safely on all sorts of leather to condition and waterproof.

2. Though they are probably fine, I would say that you are probably best throwing away the old stuff if it is seven years old. Not sure what is in Coach's products exactly, but natural oils decompose over time and get rancid, which results in an off smell and less effective moisturizing.

3. I treat the large inside divider and pocket, but rarely, as it doesn't get much wear from papers -depends on what you put in there.

4. Conditioning and using it often are about all you can do, unless you want to put it in a bag and put it under your mattress like an old baseball glove.

5. My bag still stands up after 6 years of heavy wear, but if empty, sometimes topples forward. The leather has stretched with use and gotten more "floppy," but in a good way, especially the side panels. As long as it has a few folders in it, it hasn't really been an issue. I don't have to fight the front flap to keep it open or feel like I have a box under my arm anymore, but it has lost a little of its "backbone" as a result...

 

Hey Alan, how's life treating you? Looks like I found my next blog to advertise on.

All is well. Good to have you here. I told my parents to stop by Crane's on their way home from KC yesterday. I haven't heard if they got a chance or not.

 

Just make sure you don't wear the satchel over anything white or light in color, at least for the first couple of weeks...I nearly ruined a new OCBD that way...

 

Another couple of conditioner products worth looking at are:
Obenauf's (check out their website) - a great beeswax based conditioner, useful on many different types of leather
Brooks bicycle saddle leather conditioner - may also be beeswax based, developed by Brooks for use on their excellent leather bicycle saddles

 

Thanks to the above three gentlemen--I'll look into all your suggestions.

I got a nice surprise in the inbox yesterday. Apparently my SAB briefcase is now complete and is currently on its way here. (This is quicker than I expected; website said 12-16 weeks, but mine was finished in just 8. I spoke to the customer manager of SAB and she says 8-10 weeks is the norm.) I'm supposed to get it on Monday or Tuesday. Haven't been so excited about a personal accessory in a long time.

My old digital camera is not working unfortunately.. but I'll try to post pictures of both the Filson and the SAB somehow.

So... did you receive your SAB case? I'm eagerly anticipating the photos! I just purchased a Filson field satchel (brand new, first quality) from ebay, total cost was $534, however, I paid only $377 after getting 30% cash back from microsoft/live.com. I can't wait to see it and found this thread very informative regarding maintenance. I agree that the downsides appear to be the cheap plated brass and wrinkles that form on the belt portions where they buckle. Wish there was a way to minimize that, but so be it.

 

It looks like a nice bag but the peeling of the finish, the gold hardware that I have heard is plated, and the fact that it was brown were all turn offs for me, plus for what I do it is a bit spendy...but it is an awesome accessory, congrats.

 

saddle soap

Filson posts recommendations for mantenance of bridle hide under the product details section of the web site entry for any of Filson's rugged twill luggage items.

How do I clean and care for Genuine Bridle Leather?
Use saddle soap to clean, soften, and preserve bridle leather. Saddle soap is designed specifically to care for bridle leather, and is usually available where shoe care products are sold. Follow the instructions on the container.
DO NOT professionally dry clean or machine wash. The dyes can bleed, or the leather can dry out, which can cause cracking or splitting.
Can I use your Style 2-A Boot Oil finish on Genuine Bridle Leather?
Our Boot Oil Finish is a petroleum-based treatment designed for our boots, which are made with oil-tanned leather. By comparison, our bridle leather is vegetable tanned, not oil tanned.
Saddle soap is all that is required to clean our bridle leather. Our Boot Oil Finish may darken the color of our bridle leather, but shouldn't do any harm. Some customers apply our Boot Oil Finish to bridle leather to keep it moisturized, especially when the leather frequently gets wet, to prevent cracking or splitting.

 

Leather conditioners

I've used Lexol conditioner on leather briefcases. It works well.

I've not really found the need for a leather cleaner, but if you really needed one, there's the Lexol pH Cleaner.

I've also used Leather Therapy Restorer and Conditioner. It worked well, too, and it's reported to inhibit fungi.

https://www.leathertherapy.com/index.php?main_page=index

https://www.leathertherapy.com/inde...p?main_page=products_all&type=automotive&zenid=bcac1cab6f453eca4d16800dc4ae9857

Both should be tested first on an inconspicuous spot to determine whether the leather might darken too much; this is especially true for the Leather Therapy Restorer and Conditioner. Let it dry before making a decision.

MinnMD

 

Final note

Also, after the conditioner dries, I wipe the briefcase and straps with paper towels to remove any excess that might stain clothes.

MinnMD

 

Both should be tested first on an inconspicuous spot to determine whether the leather might darken too much; this is especially true for the Leather Therapy Restorer and Conditioner. Let it dry before making a decision.

MinnMD

What if I want the leather to darken? My new chestnut bag is a bit too bright red and I'm anxious for it to develop some patina.

 

I have had mine for a year or two and when I first got it, I babied it with Lexol, etc. With daily use and hard travel it still looks great. The only real issues I've had are when I've been caught in the rain and gotten the satchel soaked. There are a few remnant streaks, but they are only visible when held at an angle in the light, and I don't mind them. I suppose that I'll condition it with one of the beeswax pastes already mentioned, or with Sno-Seal (beeswax) before the winter.

The plated hardware stopped flaking after a few months, and looks fine now with a mellowing patina rather than a mottled appearance. The back open flap has started to stretch, as I'm in the habit of stuffing a paper in there. Perhaps over the next few years it will become too loose and gape. My straps have wrinkled and the male buckle straps now hang down a bit when they are not buckled. It also is beginning to display copper tones in the high wear areas on the leather. The black edging has not been rubbed off or cracked at all, one thing I was worried about.