The "burnished calf" refers to the finishing itself, not a difference in the type of leather. I'm not sure what "custom calf" refers to. The major difference you want to look for is any reference to "brush-off leather" (e.g. the Morgan) or "polished cobbler". These are alternate terms for "corrected grain" leather. Webgems are special online discounts usually related to limited editions/color options. They are not constructed differently.

 

The leather quality between all AE's should be about the same... The independence collection (which the Jeffersons are, is a higher quality leather) They typically burnish the toes of the lighter (non-black) shoes to add some color & highlights...

Webgems are online specials that typically only last a month... If you are looking at a webgem, buy it sooner than later, you never know when they will get pulled!

 

When I added the Park Ave. to my shopping bag online it described them as black custom calfskin leather, the Jeffersons were brown burnished calfskin leather. So is the word custom what they use to describe their normal polished leather?

 

When I added the Park Ave. to my shopping bag online it described them as black custom calfskin leather, the Jeffersons were brown burnished calfskin leather. So is the word custom what they use to describe their normal polished leather?

Yes... I've only ever seen "custom" used in reference to their black shoes... I guess custom means not burnished

 

I wanted a pair of Merlot/Oxblood/Burgundy shoes as my next pair. I also wanted the 5th Ave. as my next pair but it didn't come in those colors. This webgem seems to fit the bill. My only concern is will the burnished finish make it too informal to wear with a suit, if I want to be dressed as formal as possible short of Tux. and want the option of being able to trade off with the black Park Ave.
Sorry I meant the 5th Ave.s were burnished as were the Jeffersons

 

My only concern is will the burnished finish make it too informal to wear with a suit

the burnishing is not a permanent feature of the shoes... it is like they finish the polishing by hitting them (briefly) on the black polishing wheel to pick up some color... it would be completely removable with saddle soap if needed/wanted... i am wearing my merlot (burnished) strands in the picture below (with a navy suit)... you can't even really tell that the toe caps are darker than the rest of the shoe...:

if I want to be dressed as formal as possible short of Tux. and want the option of being able to trade off with the black Park Ave.

the black PA is one of the only AE options "to be dressed as formally as possible short of a tux"

I wanted a pair of Merlot/Oxblood/Burgundy shoes as my next pair. I also wanted the 5th Ave. as my next pair but it didn't come in those colors.

AE makes a shoe for JAB that is called the Nathan... it comes in merlot/burgundy/whatever and is almost identical to the 5th ave... you could also go with a MTO through AE where the price for anything you could think of was the same as the typical models price...

 

the burnishing is not a permanent feature of the shoes... it is like they finish the polishing by hitting them (briefly) on the black polishing wheel to pick up some color... it would be completely removable with saddle soap if needed/wanted... i am wearing my merlot (burnished) strands in the picture below (with a navy suit)... you can't even really tell that the toe caps are darker than the rest of the shoe...:

View attachment 9114

the black PA is one of the only AE options "to be dressed as formally as possible short of a tux"

AE makes a shoe for JAB that is called the Nathan... it comes in merlot/burgundy/whatever and is almost identical to the 5th ave... you could also go with a MTO through AE where the price for anything you could think of was the same as the typical models price...

Thanks for that JAB info. I just checked their site and see that the AE McClain is still alive and kicking there. I have the rubber soled version, the Quinton, in black, but would love the walnut McClain.

 

I Don't think I'll beat The webgem price so I'll go with the burnished Merlot in the fifth Avenue. I guess the burnishing tends to disappear with time with repeated Polishing with an ox blood or Merlot cream and polish Is that true

 

I guess the burnishing tends to disappear with time with repeated Polishing with an ox blood or Merlot cream and polish Is that true

Yes, that's true...

 

Are the JAB shoes their same quality

 

I Don't think I'll beat The webgem price so I'll go with the burnished Merlot in the fifth Avenue. I guess the burnishing tends to disappear with time with repeated Polishing with an ox blood or Merlot cream and polish Is that true

You might want to order them quickly, I ordered the burnished Merlot Strands through the local retailer and I believe he said the web gem would last through the 27th. Not sure, maybe through October. I do remember he said they would be shipped by November 15.

 

Are the JAB shoes their same quality

if by "their" you are referring to AE, than, yes... they are the same quality as other AE's... just styles specifically made for & sold by JAB... and, believe it or not, shoes are the only item that never go on sale at JAB!

 

You might want to order them quickly, I ordered the burnished Merlot Strands through the local retailer and I believe he said the web gem would last through the 27th. Not sure, maybe through October. I do remember he said they would be shipped by November 15.

this time line makes sense... they typically pull the webgems on a sunday night...

 

Done merlot 5th Ave ordered. They ship Nov. 15. I tried on the black at Nordstrom so they should be the same fit. The PA fit the same as do my Strands. Since the Jeff's are the same last can I expect them to fit well also even though they are a different line? I ask because Nordstrom has a sale the day after Christmas, so if AE is included in their sale they will order me a pair of brown Jeff's on Dec. 26. Might as well take advantage of the sale since I'll be buying them eventually.

 

this time line makes sense... they typically pull the webgems on a sunday night...

The webgems have already disappeared off the AE homepage, and it's only halfway through Sunday, but still show up if you click on "dress shoes".

 

The webgems have already disappeared off the AE homepage, and it's only halfway through Sunday, but still show up if you click on "dress shoes".

I am anxiously awaiting the next webgem!

 

While we're on the subject, I bought Park Avenues with a brown/tan leather with "bumps". It reminds me of the same leather found on a professional football. Very casual looking shoe for chinos, jeans, etc. Don't remember the name of the leather or finish.

 

While we're on the subject, I bought Park Avenues with a brown/tan leather with "bumps". It reminds me of the same leather found on a professional football. Very casual looking shoe for chinos, jeans, etc. Don't remember the name of the leather or finish.

Scotch grain, I believe.

 

^^
Or pebble-grain.

You can't burnish black. It's already black. Here's a shot of a pair of Loakes pre-burnishing and post-burnishing.

I'd guess that this is similar to what's done to an AE walnut shoe at the factory -- supposedly, AE's bourbon is just walnut with lots of extra burnishing. My burnished brown Strands are pretty subtly done -- the finishing works beautifully with the pattern and the last.

 

I am anxiously awaiting the next webgem!

Sadly, the next webgem appears to be .
Didn't they have that this time last year?

A pity the merlot shoes couldn't have stayed a bit longer.
Cash flow prevented me from ordering the MacNeils.
I'll just have to dream about cordovan ones sometime in the future.

 

I do not particularly like the burnished look and did not know I could do anything to change it. Apparently, it will change itself if I just wait around long enough and keep polishing. Thanks for the information.