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@dieworkwear and my Paul Stuart Suit Jackets

2.4K views 12 replies 8 participants last post by  Naïtsirk Róïd  
#1 ·
Friends!

Here's my conundrum and my problem. I have these really nice Paul Stuart jackets that I found and bought vintage for quite a lot of money (I have an unusual size of 48xl – by chance I found several of them in great condition so I paid what they asked). I used to think they were sports jackets. But a recent twitter thread from @dieworkwear made me think that they are actually orphaned suit jackets.

Now, @dieworkwear makes a very strong case that wearing odd suit jackets will make one look like he accidentally spilled something on his trousers and had to switch them out. He says they should be thrown out and gives several criteria for recognizing if something is a sports jacket (patch pockets; ticket pockets; rough, thick and more tweed-like fabric; looser fit; less tailored look).

Since I move in very traditional comme-il-faut circles, I have been thinking of throwing them out.

Or could I be wrong and they actually are sports jackets? The wool is quite thick. And they do have flap pockets, not jetted pockets (at least not if you leave the flap out). Please have a look at the photos and tell me.

Or could @dieworkwear be wrong and it's actually OK to wear them if paired with the right pants? If yes, what would those pants be? And what occasions could they be worn to? A formal dinner party? A New York gentleman's club?

Or is there a way to transform them into blazers or sports jackets? By maybe putting brass buttons on the dark blue suit jackets? And maybe there are some other small tailoring adjustments of which you can think?

Am attaching a few (bad) photos, so you can see some of my jackets.

Please answer from the most snobbish perspective possible. And don't give me any "there are no rules" answer. I have found that in clothing there really are rules. People just don't tell you when you're breaking them. They simply laugh about you or exclude you. Like they laugh about you if you make grammar mistakes.

Thanks, Andy & friends!
 

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#6 ·
While I can’t speak to traditional British rules, breaking up a jacket and slacks of a suit definitely have a long tradition in both American and Italian men’s dressing. Furthermore, most people these days would not know what to look for. You will find common advice from “online experts” (permanent style, gentleman’s gazette, he spoke style) all recommending when you start building a wardrobe to buy suits in simple colors so that you can break them up and get more bang for your buck in different looks.

Suffice to say, I personally don’t think it’s a problem as long as you like them and they fit you.
 
#7 ·
I think you're two thirds good.
There's no problem with either of the doubles, and you don't have to switch the buttons to brass, an often made suggestion which teeters on the cornball. (But you do have to replace a missing button on the blue one. That jacket has two interior latch buttons, and there's a chance they may match those on the front. If so, snatch one for the outside.)

Pin stripe wool can never pass as anything but the north end of suit, so I'd write that one off. I think you can make quite a splash wearing the double breasteds though, they're not often seen alone. The blue with lighter pants, the gray with light or dark. Paul Stuart, good stuff.
 
#12 ·
From what I have seen he (it, they?) is, well, ill-informed about actual usage among people who have worn suits and sports coats over the last few decades. There are times at which they would have only worn a suit, and made it as well tailored and set up as possible, and other times at which they might wear any combination that was convenient or suited their whim.

So, don’t get married in a suit jacket and jeans, but wear them on weekends if you want.