To help, you'll have to say whether you're looking for M2M or bespoke (either might be considered "custom"). In that price range you can get M2M almost anything, but bespoke will start at the upper end of your price range.

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cpac

 

CPAC,

Thanks for the response, I would say good MTM or bespoke, any recommendations?

 

quote:Originally posted by cfriedberg

CPAC,

Thanks for the response, I would say good MTM or bespoke, any recommendations?

Well, I've never spent that much on a suit (other priorities). But if I needed just 1 suit at that price, I'd be tempted to go with Oxxford (they have a boutique on 57th street, suits will run $2400+ M2M). I might also try Isaia from one of the good department stores.

Really though, you can get M2M from almost anybody in that price range. I'd take some time this weekend (if the rain's not too bad) and visit a few places - get a feel for the look and construction details you want, and then start narrowing things down to the places that treat you well and that you like. The better department stores are a good place to start to see a large number of brands in a relatively small amount of time and space.

I have no experience with the truly bespoke makers, and am not entirely sure which would fall into your price range, but others on these boards do.

Just out of curiosity, and I don't mean to offend at all, but it's not often somebody on these forums is looking to spend that much without having had more experience or knowledge about what they like. Maybe you do and you just haven't shared that with us, but if this is your first foray into custom clothing, I'd highly recommend spending some of that money on some custom shirts as well. They make a world of difference (as do good shoes, ties, etc.). And my sincere apologies if you already know all of that, I don't mean to be patronizing.

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cpac

 

cpac,

not offended at all. to date, i have typically bought from Boyd's in Philadelphia (where I lived up until recently) and generally get shirts from Pink, am just looking to step up in quality and have no experience in custom suits (I have gotton 'custom' shirts from Custom Shop, although I don't really consider that custom). I have heard of Isaia before, but thought that for $1500 to $2000, which is what I have seen those priced at, I could get a MTM suit. any guidance is appreciated.

 

quote:Originally posted by cfriedberg

any guidance is appreciated.

I'm not nearly as experienced or knowledgable as many on this board, but FWIW:

Isaia, and for that matter most better off-the-rack brands can also be bought M2M (usually at a slightly higher price that OTR, though that extra is often waived during the seasonal trunk shows). Since you've got a huge range of options, I'd focus your time on narrowing down a style to a list of a few makers whom you really like.

Shirt-wise, I think you'll find that Pink is not very well thought of on these boards - generally thought overpriced and relatively poorly constructed for the money. I get my shirts from Carl at CEGO, who occasionally posts here as "Shirtmaven." Other custom makers that are highly thought of include Paris and Geneva, though again, others with more experience can tell you more. Alexander Kabbaz also frequently posts here and makes extremely nice shirts (unfortunately well out of my price range).

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cpac

 

If you're willing to go as high as $3K, forgot MTM and go with bespoke. Nicolisi has suits, with in-house fabrics, that are $3K. If you would like to spend less try Mr. Ned, Ercole or Bhambi - either one of these will provide you with a well fitting suit which would be vastly superior to dept. store MTM.

If you MUST do MTM, go to Logsdail and get one for $2.5K,

Panzer

 

Panzer,

I thought Longsdail was really really expensive and he was bespoke? Doesn't Kudlow get his suits from Longsdail? Another member mentioned that someone is in Longsdail's space making good suits.

Do you have suits from any of those other tailors you mention? How was the experience?

Again, thanks to all posters here.

Charles

 

Logsdail does MTM and bespoke. The MTM is made by a handwork factory, but fitted and finished by Len. The bespoke is cut by him, made by one of his sewing tailors, and completely overseen by Len. MTM is I think $2,800 and bespoke is around $4,500.

A man named Stephen Kempson also works in the same shop. He offers MTM from a British source, and a Neapolitan source. The British stuff is around $3K, the Neapolitan more like $4K.

 

Best overall experience and value:
Jay Walter, Venezia 3 West 56 $2100 MTM
Fallan and Harvey, Intercontinental
Hotel April 4-7 $2500 Bespoke
Best Value:
LS, 49 West 45 St. 3d floor (IZZY)
MTM by H. Freeman $ 800 MTM
Other Recos:
Benson & Clegg , works inside
Logsdail $2400 Bespoke
Barneys: Hickey Freeman $1700 MTM


Charlie Channel-hunter

 

I would say that the closest that you could come to benchmade bespoke craftsmanship in that price range is with Oxxford at its shop.

Mark Seitelman
www.seitelman.com

 

Paul Winston at Chipp. Excellent MTM suits about $1500 bucks. 44th between Madison & 5th.

 

Thanks for this info. I am moving into that "step-up" as, well. My hesitation is I have very particular shoulder 'desires/requests'. Hardly any shoulder padding; soft natural shoulder coupled with a Neopolitan feature. High arm hole. Pants similar to RLPL of approx. 5-6 years ago. Noticed one of the pictures of one of the guys at the Sartorial Excellence event had a jacket shoulder very close to one I'm seeking.

TPS

 

You can try DeCarlos Morse () for MTM. Does his fittings at Logsdail's office. Former Dunhill and Jay Kos salesman, has very good taste, work is done in Italy. $1300 to about $2500.

A good value in Bespoke is Meyer & Mortimer, slightly "off row" back in the smoke at 6 Sackville Street. Lots of history, royal warrant, and big following among the Scottish regiments and aristocracy. Mr Brian Lewis is at the Hotel Intercontinental in NY today through Wednesday. They are much less than the big names for bespoke, and its possible to get a 2 piece bespoke for a little under $3k judging by the last price list I have. Maybe its the cheaper rent.

Cheers,

 

At the upper-end of that price range, you could get a bespoke suit from Vincent Nicolosi, if you use one of the clothes he has in shop.

 

The value between bespoke and M2M is kind of interesting when thinking about them in different ways. If a $2,200 -$3,000 MTM takes 8 hours to make and a Bespoke takes 40-50 hours for $3,000-$4,000, then the Bespoke is way under priced and a bargain. Wouldn't it be better to wait a bit longer and save more money and get the bargain?

With Bespoke you have to be getting more to the coat because of all those extra hours put into it. Whereas, a M2M is probably made by underpaid workers who do perhapes 800 sleeves a day- every day, so is there mind on there job by the 600th one, which could be your sleeve?

MTM has a nice track record. But, Bespoke is art and more functional with it's higher armholes, better fitting collar, shrunken in sleeve caps, thousands of pad stitches, and so on.

A few months more of saving and you can walk out of a tailors shop with a garment that is uniquely yours.

 

Indeed the higher $ MTM has a lot of margin in it for the purveyor. If you can find good bespoke for same or little more, probably worth it.

 

quote:The value between bespoke and M2M is kind of interesting when thinking about them in different ways. If a $2,200 -$3,000 MTM takes 8 hours to make and a Bespoke takes 40-50 hours for $3,000-$4,000, then the Bespoke is way under priced and a bargain. Wouldn't it be better to wait a bit longer and save more money and get the bargain?

Or perhaps MTM is way overpriced.

There are certainly some exceptions, but there is an awful lot of overpriced MTM out there. It's not hard for some retailers to offer MTM with no upcharge during periodic "trunk shows."