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Conundrum: is this a suit or a tux, a black-tie passable suit, or even more formal than my tux?

4.8K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  orange fury  
#1 ·
Hi all I'm a long time reader and first time poster. I appreciate the diversity and soundness of thought in these forums.

I have an incredible suit like nothing else I've ever seen, I always thought it was a suit, and now I'm starting to think it could perhaps pass for a tuxedo or at least pass at a black tie event. I even think it might be more formal than my tuxedo. I'd like your opinions on this unique piece and what your thoughts are about wearing it with bow ties and/or to black tie events. I don't want to be "that guy" trying to pass off a black suit as a tux, but…

The suit is Emporio Armani 2013 S/S. I bought it in Milan at the flagship at the end of Via Montenapoleone (Via Manzoni) where they often have things there you won't see anywhere else. In fact, this suit was never in a runway and I've never seen it anywhere else. It's a two piece single-button peak lapel suit. Black matte, but it has black satinish prince of wales check design throughout that you only see when the light hits it right. I changed the Armani buttons out for gorgeous piano gloss polished black real stag horn buttons from Grunwald.

I bought it instead of a tux for my wedding suit because 1) we got married before 6pm, 2) but with a dinner after 6 in a 3) Piazza overlooking the sea in Liguria (a formal dinner but the seaside not the most formal of places). In that way it needed to traverse day and evening wear, wedding wear but near a beach, with 99% of the guests being well-dressed Italians. I wanted to dress it up a bit so against the rules I added a vest I bought down the street from the EA store, at the GA store, which matches almost perfectly the satinish check in the suit, making it look almost like the shiny check is coming through from the vest. I changed the buttons out to match the suit buttons.

You traditionalists will cry faux pas on that move to make it a three piece, but it worked so well together matching and it allowed me to add my great grandfather's pocket watch with my wife's great grandfather's matching chain. Plus it added formality. Everyone loved it anyway and I felt 10 feet tall in it. Here are pictures with enhanced light exposure to see the detail, since normally the pieces are very dark black

If no satin lapels then it's not a tux I thought. But I have a mohair tuxedo, double breasted (seen here: ) which does NOT have satin lapels or anything glossy on it besides a pant stripe (also not a must on tuxes). But that tux is somehow still a tuxedo and sold as a tux- just because of wool buttons I guess? My suit has more satin than my tuxedo- is it more formal? Is my suit just a tuxedo with the satin spread out into the plaid and the vest instead of the lapel?

I have a proper pointed black grosgrain gucci bow tie, a red and a black butterfly faux pony skin bow ties with matching pocket square (like in the picture of the tux), the red one here with pocket square: ), and a faux pony skin and silk necktie (seen here: ).

Obviously the bow ties are fine with the tuxedo, but I felt strange wearing any of them with the suit as a two or three piece, because I felt like maybe it seemed I was trying to pass a suit as a tuxedo. I just wore the pony skin necktie with the suit, or last year I went to a gala in the suit as a two piece without a tie and with a shiny Italian modal scarf somewhat like how Will Smith presented the Academy Awards, except my scarf was better ;-) ().

So- What are your thoughts about wearing the bow ties with the suit and/or going to galas and such with the suit instead of the tux sometimes? Can you wear solid bow ties with suits (seems so: )? Does it appear I'm trying to pass the suit off as a tux if I wore the bow ties with the suit? Is this check suit actually a tuxedo or a pseudo-tux?

Or maybe this just isn't clear cut because so many fashion lines are being blurred these days, in which case, I appreciate your thoughts and comments on the aesthetic. Obviously I'm more interested in what looks good than what the rules are, when the two points diverge. If possible, I'd like to be mixing and matching these two suits at formal events since they are often with some of the same people.

Grazie mille!
 
#2 · (Edited)
OK! I realized the photos you posted ARE the suit in question. (Thought they were from a magazine ad at first. Don't let that go to your head!) I think it looks pretty tux-like. It's a bit light-colored in the photos, but with peaked lapels and one button, it's otherwise so close I think most would consider it a tux if it looks black and IF you of course wear it with a bowtie.

My general take on tuxedos: If you don't have a need for a tux in general, don't buy one. I have one that I bought for my own wedding--and have worn maybe one time since, if that. What a waste of money.

Yes, some forum members will slap their palms to their faces in horror at the idea of someone wearing a black suit in lieu of a tux--as a sign of the apocalypse, akin to ending a sentence with a preposition. But honestly, what constitutes a tux has slipped so much (at least if you go by what men are wearing at any of the awards shows) that there is no real rulebook anymore that anyone (other than a small passionate minority) pays any attention to.

And besides: the tux itself was a new thing "violating" the "rule" of white tie!

So by the traditional rules, yeah, you need a midnight-blue one-button getup with either a shawl collar or peaked lapels and mandatory satin or grosgrain facings. Worn with a bowtie only and a cummberbund. And don't forget a shirt that's either fluffy or ribbed for her pleasure.

But by that standard, half the guys at any major formal event aren't wearing a true tux. And yours is hitting all but one of those "requirements."
 
#3 ·
Hmmm...notch lapel, flap pockets, no lapel facings, no trouser stripes, it sure looks like a one-button suit to me. What else could it be?

Yes, you can wear bow ties with a suit. Many men do pass off dark suits in lieu of tuxedos at gala events, but if the invitation specifies "black tie," most of us here would regard the practice as subpar. Do not, under any circumstances, wear a necktie or bowtie with a matching pocket square.

Just my thoughts.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Conundrum: is this a suit or a tux, a black-tie passable suit, or even more f...

My thought is that it's a great looking suit that I'd be delighted to wear and you look great in it. However, I wouldn't describe it as a tux - it is a beautiful daytime suit perfect for a dress-up occasion and I think your idea of wearing it as a "crossover" outfit was very good. You're a handsome guy and wear your clothes well.

That vest, nice as it is, in my opinion makes the suit less, rather than more, formal. In a tux there should be a nice area of white showing, and a high-cut vest covers that up. A low-cut evening vest, or even a cummerbund, increases formality but wouldn't work with that suit because it would be too much of a mix of styles.

I think that most of those other 'tuxes' in the pictures kind of miss the mark; jackets that close far too high, notch lapels (yea, I know many tuxes have them these days) and flapped pockets decrease the level of formality. In all honesty, for my money, they look like a designer trying to look "modern and outrageous" which is fine for a runway show but not for real life. I think there is danger of a guy wearing any of those to a gala or ball looking like a noveau-riche try-hard who thinks a designer name and a big price tag equals quality and good taste.

Sorry to sound harsh - at the end of the day it's just my opinion. Others may think differently.

(Oh and final comment - I'm in total agreement with JLibourel here - do not, under any circumstances, wear a necktie or bowtie with a matching pocket square).
 
#5 ·
No, I don't think it's a tux, but IMO that's fine. It's a cool looking suit and while I think it would be a very fashion-forward black tie look, it wouldn't be completely inappropriate (as long as you understand that some might look at it that way). Kinda agree that the vest almost makes it look LESS formal (weird), but likewise not inappropriate.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Thank you for your compliments AscotWithShortSleeves, mreugeng and mediate and opinions from everyone. Great points on black tie originating as a violation of white tie, and yes I never wear matching pocket square, except this faux pony skin because its fun. Interesting takes on the vest too.

SG_67 and Starting Late avoid the pointed question: Ok so it's a suit but if some modern tuxedos like mine in picture 2 do not have satin (there are lots of others like that out there), but my peak lapel (not notch like JLibourel said) suit does have satin in the plaid (I could tuck in the flaps), what really distinguishes a tuxedo? Truly just the buttons? That question hasn't been answered. Or maybe AscotWithShortSleeves is right that the lines have just become very blurred.
 
#10 ·
Thank you for your compliments AscotWithShortSleeves, mreugeng and mediate and opinions from everyone. Great points on black tie originating as a violation of white tie, and yes I never wear matching pocket square, except this faux pony skin because its fun. Interesting takes on the vest too.

SG_67 and Starting Late avoid the pointed question: Ok so it's a suit but if some modern tuxedos like mine in picture 2 do not have satin (there are lots of others like that out there), but my peak lapel (not notch like JLibourel said) suit does have satin in the plaid (I could tuck in the flaps), what really distinguishes a tuxedo? Truly just the buttons? That question hasn't been answered. Or maybe AscotWithShortSleeves is right that the lines have just become very blurred.
I really think it's the designer of the suit you're referring in to picture 2 that's got things blurred. He or she has mis-matched elements from 2 different things and called it a tux. It isn't.

It has covered buttons as a tux would have. It doesn't have satin or grosgrain lapels as a tux would have. It has a satin stripe on the trousers as a tux would have. It has cuffs (turn-ups) on the trousers which a tux would definitely not have. The trousers are incredibly short which may be fine for a fashion-forward suit on a young man, but does not match the formality required of a tux.

Of course, it's fine to break the 'rules' of evening dress if you understand the 'rules' and know what you're trying to achieve. This looks to me like a designer who doesn't understand the 'rules' trying to be 'modern and outrageous' but totally missing the mark.
 
#13 ·
Haha. Ok... Well when my thoughtful inquiry is answered by basic tux 101 links and others in a forum saying suits, I mean "shmatas", personally designed by Giorgio Armani show that he doesn't know what he's talking about, I think I should rethink my approach. There are few definitively untouchable fashion lions who set decades of trends with their scrap fabrics, and he is one of them, above reproach from forum barons. Please don't keep this thread open for me any longer and thank you to those of you who responded reasonably and generously.
 
#14 ·
I don't care if the Pope himself designed them. They're hideous and cartoonish.

A good rule to remember is not to be enamored with a particular designer. Look at them objectively. If I were at a gathering or event and I saw someone there dressed as such, I would probably chuckle.

Armani certainly appeals to a particular demographic but no one is untouchable.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Based on your response, it appears that you were looking for validation of your opinion, and not our actual opinions. I'm sorry you didn't get the answer you wanted, but when you ask about formalwear on a site devoted to traditional menswear, you're going to receive responses based on the long-accepted definition of "formalwear", which is considered timeless (not trendy).

No designer is untouchable or above reproach- I generally love what Ralph Lauren puts out and wear a ton of it (Polo to Purple Label) but that doesn't mean that he hasn't had some terrible ideas in the past. As much as I tend to love RLPL specifically, there's some items I wouldn't take of they were given to me.

Look, what you posted looks like a nice suit and would work in a "business dress" environment (I question the satin pattern you were talking about, but I can't see it in the photo), but a "tuxedo" fits a very narrow definition. Also, a business suit will never be more formal than a tuxedo- the only thing that is considered more formal than a tuxedo (black tie) is white tie/tails. I wasn't being snarky by posting that link- you seemed to have some legitimate questions about what constitutes black tie/formalwear, and that website is the ultimate resource. Also, it's already been said, but while the photos you posted of runway models are fine for the fashion shows, I don't think anyone would consider those to be formalwear in real life.

One thing I'll add about the suit you posted- you could definitely wear a bow tie with it (I wear bow ties with suits all the time), but if you're going to wear a long tie with it, you should get some slightly wider ties. The width of the tie needs to be similar (though not necessarily the same) as the width of the jacket lapels. You might look at 3.5" ties for this suit. Just a thought.