"There is nothing more rewarding than seeing the transformation of some of my customers, discovering how they have found the perfect look for themselves."

This sounds good.

 

Yes, it does. But I'm curious as to the exact nature of his business. I get the impression that he's not actually a tailor as he describes talking with his cutters. As you know, a lot of bespoke work isn't done in-house with some firms being little more than measurement takers who then send the work out to various jobbers to make the garment. And in their photos I notice a substantial variety of styles and construction methods. That could just reflect client preferences, or the preferences of various cutters as can be found in the work from W W Chan, or it can be that it's all made by subcontractors. And if that sounds inferior, it really doesn't need to be. Most of the stuff looks pretty good. Notice though in the three examples below there are differences in gorge height, lapel width and button stance. And the top jacket employs a spalla camicia shoulder and where the remaining two are more structured and traditional.

 

Some of the SR houses are owned by non tailors. What matters is real cutters are dealing with the customers. Where they are made doesn't need to be in house, but that real tailors are making, and there is real communication between cutters and tailors. Cutters and tailors should be able to make many styles. The basic pattern does not even need the lapel, therefore leaving any style lapels to be drawn on the cloth just before cutting. Even the type of pad stitching contributes to the style of the lapels. Sb, DB, norfolk, etc. from that one pattern. Simple adjustments into various over coats. Converted into waistcoats. After all, real tailors are supposed to be the best in the industry. And, by hand, instead of jigged machines or computerized machines, the options are huge. Even some computerized machines you can pick how many stitches per length.

Some big city tailors specialize. But town tailors have to make everything to stay in business. Otherwise they will have to work another job. Tailoring is of the visual world, which means, you have to think with pictures. Picture thinking is far faster than word thinking for some things in life. And very quick to adapt. Some tailors are an encyclopedia of clothing and how to make them. Enough knowledge is pasted along. And tailors who made for dozens of generations of teenagers have made many types of garments. It isn't that a garment looks like something, but, why? Clothes are symbolic. Many teenagers like to keep that a secret from their parents. So, there is often much more than just a certain look. Clothes are about each person's life.

 

Any idea how his prices compare with W.W. Chan or the other top HK tailors?

 

Sorry, I've only ever seen the website, and prices aren't mentioned. While looking for them, I found photo's showing entire suits. The jackets are nice, but the trousers are a travesty, though that could be the fault of the clients.

 

I love this jacket.

 

This jacket is nothing short of sartorial porn.