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Better to show too little shirt cuff with a coat, or too much?

24K views 10 replies 9 participants last post by  215339  
#1 ·
This is one thing I've never been able to get right, due to one arm being longer than the other and shirt lengths varying between shirts etc.

Usually this has lead to my coat sleeves being too short and showing roughly a solid 1 inch of cuff.
 
#3 ·
Afraid you are looking at it backwards. The jacket sleeve should be the correct length. The shirt sleeve should be the correct length. The result is how much shirt sleeve will show beneath the jacket sleeve.

Since we do not live in a world of perfection, some variance from “correct” is inevitable, as will be the amount of short sleeve displayed.

So, if your shirt sleeve is roughly the right length, and your jacket sleeve roughly the right length, you’re good, regardless. If not, you may have a problem, but it is with the length of one sleeve or both, not with the amount of shirt sleeve displayed.

If your problem is that one shirt sleeve is too long if the other is just right, and vice versa (what exactly does that mean, anyway), you are pretty much required to get a shirt long enough for you long arm, if not custom. A shirt sleeve can be easily shortened.
 
#4 ·
Afraid you are looking at it backwards. The jacket sleeve should be the correct length. The shirt sleeve should be the correct length. The result is how much shirt sleeve will show beneath the jacket sleeve.

Since we do not live in a world of perfection, some variance from "correct" is inevitable, as will be the amount of short sleeve displayed.

So, if your shirt sleeve is roughly the right length, and your jacket sleeve roughly the right length, you're good, regardless. If not, you may have a problem, but it is with the length of one sleeve or both, not with the amount of shirt sleeve displayed.

If your problem is that one shirt sleeve is too long if the other is just right, and vice versa (what exactly does that mean, anyway), you are pretty much required to get a shirt long enough for you long arm, if not custom. A shirt sleeve can be easily shortened.
What is the "correct" length? Seems pretty vague to me.
 
#5 ·
Given the choice, I'll take showing too little cuff. Showing too much can even appear comedic. As you move your arms while walking, more of the cuff will become visible anyway.

I think most here will tell you that 1 inch may be on the higher side but perfectly acceptable. If you're not comfortable showing that much, that's really the only concern.
 
#6 ·
I'd also go with "too little". But here's the official pronouncement from the Encyclopedia of Men's Clothes: ;)

Sleeve fit

Image


The jacket sleeve should curve slightly forward just like your arm. Sleeve cuffs should fall where your wrist meets your hand. Most of us have one arm longer than the other, so watch for that. Remember to wear a dress shirt when you go shopping for a suit.

If the dress shirt sleeves and the suit jacket sleeves are properly sized, a 1/4 to 1/2 inch of shirt sleeve will show below the end of the jacket sleeve.

Tailors usually measure the end of a jacket sleeve 4 3/4" up from the tip of the thumb and shirt makers measure shirts 4 1/4" up from the tip of the thumb.

The tradition of showing one's shirt cuffs comes from the style during the Renaissance of frilly shirt cuffs sticking out of the jacket sleeve. Only those of higher social classes could wear fancy shirts (with frills, and ruffles), whereas lower classes wore plain shirts.

Plus it presents a balanced appearance.
 
#8 · (Edited)
My vote is too much.

Too much looks like you're making an intentional statement, or maybe could be attributed to a bit of sprezz. It could also look a bit louche. (Note how I italicize sinister European sartorial tendencies.)

Too little and it just looks inattentive, like a rube or bumpkin (no italics needed) who's never worn a suit before, but recent necessity has dictated it, and they're as yet unacquainted with the notion of tailoring.

(I know I'm reading far too much into it, but that's the ethos of a clothing forum!)

DH
 
#9 ·
I prefer to show too much shirt cuff.

In the case of having arms of different sizes, I see the solution as tailoring your jacket sleeves to end at the correct place (the wrist bone of each arm), and a snug shirt cuff should fall on your wrist at the same place on each arm, with a little more bunching in the sleeve of the shorter arm. Shirt sleeves need to have a little extra length anyway.