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Alden...still got it!

20K views 145 replies 21 participants last post by  Watchman  
Beautiful boots...sure wouldn't mind a pair in my collection. And with any beautiful shoe they shine best when on your feet out in the sun where you and others can best appreciate them.

Just picked up a couple Alden shells last week myself...though as they were on clearance I'm guessing they've been sitting around a bit and not representative of Alden's recent offerings.

I do wonder as to Alden being comparative to EG and C&J. Alden has its following and has had it for longer than the 15 years I've been familiar with the brand. Ravello, whisky, cognac, etc shell had a high demand even back then. Doesn't seem to have changed much on that front. Seems alden is still pumping out their well known rather chunky look.

But has its place amongst the shoe world really risen? If so, do you feel that Alden quality has gone up or the quality of the EG and C&J down?

Now price wise Alden seems to have caught up with C&J. Shell offerings from both are north of $900. Not sure how much special "color" alden shells are going for as I don't find availability...but the C&J website has whiskey available at $1'050 (short wing derbies) and $1'250 for cap toe derby boots. They also have what they call "dark brown" cordovan available starting at $920 for loafers up to $1'200 for boots. And let's not forget Carmina still offers a pretty nice selection of shell at a lower price point ($850 for cigar shell boots) and often has the special colors available. Alden has often (always) had the issue of having to hunt for the off colored shell..and if memory serves correctly, there's quite a premium price tag that comes with it as well.

As such, I'd also hazard a guess that retail on your boots is within striking distance of EGs regular calf pricing?

All that to say.. that from a quick look, from what I see, the pecking order in the shell market hasn't really changed much the last 15 years or so, has it? And if so, how really?

My new finds..half off..quite the steal..but if I was paying full price of almost $1'000 I'd be considering those C&J whiskey boots for a couple hundred more..or the carmina boots in cigar shell for $150 less ...as well as looking at what EG might have on sale..but at $500..no doubt I'm buying the Alden's in good old fashion #8

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@justonemore , Good Gosh, it's been nine whole years. Welcome back. Have always enjoyed your posts. Back when I was a youngster 🤡
Ha. Thanks for the enthusiastic welcome back. I was thinking I might slide in unnoticed. 🙃

I kind of left the hobby and picked up an even more expensive addiction to traveling the globe. 😅 . Those Alden's are my first "real shoe" purchase since meeting up with RogerP at Leatherfoot Toronto in 2016 (holy smokes). I still enjoy looking around the shops when I find myself in England but stopped the ever increasing active hunting for shoes/suits/etc...and with that came less opportunity to post and be active on the websites. With my somewhat extensive wardrobe I certainly wasn't going barefoot and naked the last 8-9 years.

Either way..my recent find brought back memories of the old days and I thought I'd come have a look as to what's going on. I was surprised to find my account was still active and was delighted to find a few of the older members still around. I well remember Watchman and several of "older members" replying... and as I'm no stranger to Alden I figured it would be the perfect thread to slip into. 😁
 


Watchman Sir,

You are quite a delightful treasure trove of information. That sure hasn't changed. Thank you for such a detailed response.

Over 30 pairs of shell? Makes my little collection look like child's play. Have you ever taken photos of them together? I'd love to see them.

I quite like my Carmina shells. If I wasn't finding Alden on clearance I'd probably be stocking up on Carmina. They had bad service 10 years ago as well. I put it down to their recently found fame and mire international growth..but maybe that wasn't it. 😅

I was indeed off on EG calf pricing. My apologies. Not sure where I pulled that from. I guess I was thinking Alden Ravello was going for a bit more and EG a bit less. My 5 EGs are all calf and I don't think I've ever even handled EG cordovan. I've stopped in their London shop half a dozen times by now but don't remember them ever having any shell displayed (and you'd think I'd remember it). I do realize that their shell offerings are significantly more expensive. I've dreamed of a couple of the boots..but my wife would probably divorce me if I started bringing home $2'500 boots. I have always found EGs customer service top notch. They quickly respond to emails and they seem to know everything about every shoe they've made

I'll continue this a bit later. I Need to get dinner out of the oven
 
@justonemore

I wanted to share a couple pics of one of my most prized possessions.

These are Alden Medallion Cap Toe Bluchers on Plaza Last in Color 4 Shell Cordovan:

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Cheers!
Wow. Quite impressive indeed. The #4 is quite a lovely color. There's quite an elegance in keeping it a plain medallion toe versus all the additional broguing Ive often seen on MCTs (to include my own in 8). Thank you for sharing. I can certainly see why they would be amongst your most prized.

May I enquire as to how long you've had them and when you took the photos? How much work have you put into them versus out of box? Did you find those in a store or are they special order?

Thanks again...
 
@justonemore

Several days after I took delivery of the Whiskey Boots in the OP, these arrived:

Alden PTB on Barrie Last in Whiskey Cordovan

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Where would you put 4 in relation to the other Alden shell colors? Was 4 out before the others? For some reason I remember 8 and 4 being discussed before Ravello/cigar/etc.. but my recollection of long ago discussions when I was a newcomer might be a bit off.
 
Yes, I am on a first name basis with several Alden shops. As you are aware, I have been collecting them for over a decade. Sometimes I wish they would not call me...but they do...;)
The designations "color 8" and "color 4" are strictly used by Horween and have been adopted by the makers. The numbers correlate to the amount of dye applied during the tanning processes.

So, color 8 received an "eight fold" amount of dye whilst color 4 receives roughly half the dye of color 8. Color 2 being correlated to Carmina "ruby" etc.

Color 4 was being used by Alden many moons ago. Alden said they would never used the dye again and then brought it back several years ago. Color 8 is by far the most common shade, dating back to the 1940's and 50's. Perhaps even earlier than that...
It's after midnight, my eyes are blurring, and I still need to clean up after dinner and hide eggs. If you wouldn't mind I'd love to continue this discussion later when I can give it the attention it deserves. Thanks again for all your responses and photos.
 
@justonemore these are Ravello Cordovan Medalion Cap Toe Bluchers on Aberdeen Last.

I was told directly in 2023 by Alden themselves that the demand and production for rare Shell shoes is at an all time low, whilst boots are extremely popular.

This same individual stated we can expect to see more and more boots and less and less shoes being produced by Alden in rare colorations.

They said the increasing rise in casual attire exacerbated by the pandemic is to blame.

FWIW, these derby’s are yet another exquisite example of Alden shoemaking and I would place this pair on par with the finest makers in the world today.

Aberdeen last is quite elegant…not as much as Plaza but close. Aberdeen is a classic almond shaped last and while it is not as elegant as some of CJ and EG counterparts, nevertheless the overall presentation and build quality are irreproachable. Cheers!

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You certainly have some rather lovely prime examples. I certainly don't have access to any store that would carry anothing comparable from Alden. Never seen a non-8/black pair here. And shipping to Europe is problematic as I have to get family in the US involved. You seem to have a couple stores nearby..and store owners calling you when they get in such beautiful models. With the relationships that you've built up over the last 2 decades, perhaps they spoil you a little bit? 😅

I still need some long wing derbies and a few pairs of boots ..think I'll try to find some in Ravello next time around. It's a beautiful color..and that pair in #4 you listed were gorgeous as well.

I have 9 Alden shells. 7 are in #8, 2 are black (the only "special" color I have are a pair of Carmina monks in Cognac). All but 1 were purchased at a local store that carries what it carries. So I'm by no means pretending to be an expert versus merely curious.

I'm not sure I've ever handled Edward Green shell. I've been to their London store half a dozen times over the years and don't recall ever seeing a model displayed (though my memory might be slipping). So again, I'm not going to pretend to be an expert on how EG does shell compared to Alden.

I do have 6 EGs in calf and enjoy them immensely...but they're all over 10 years old by now so I couldn't comment on modern issues.

Funny enough..the 2 pairs of boots that "died" this year were 1 each from Alden and EG. The leather of my Alden George boots ripped where the tongue meets the vamp. The cobbler I use didn't think any fix would last long. The EGs cracked right at the cuboid (I'll be sending them to EG to be looked at..hopefully they might have a suggestion). Both were favorites and saw a lot of use

Other than the aforementioned boots, my EGs are more occasional use. Yes, the black and dark oak cap-toe Oxfords are lovely and the standard in "formal" business footwear..but I rarely have a call for such and will usually choose something a bit more interesting 😀

I'd say overall my Aldens see the most use. They're all casual (derbies, chukkas, tassel loafers) and I have no need to dress formal nowadays..

But that further leaves me unable to compare. I have formal EGs and casual Aldens. I wear them differently for different occasions. And I don't own Aldens in calf or EGs in shell.

I was recently looking at getting some boots..my jaw dropped upon seeing Alden whiskey chukkas listed at $2'000. The whiskey short wings were a bargain at only $1'000. I almost wanted to get them but boots were the goal and I just bought Alden short wing derbies in #8 a month or so ago. I also found them a bit too light coloured for my liking..but. Given the choice between an EG calf or those Aldens, I would have picked the Aldens. And while $1'000 isn't cheap, it's a drop in the bucket compared to prices I've seen on EG shell.

Vass as usual has some lovely calf options.

Carmina still offers a nice variety and I enjoy the 6 Carmina's in my collection..but their customer service is a turn off. I had issues with their attitude 10 years ago and that didn't change when I contacted them a few weeks ago. I had pretty much picked out a couple pairs but the attitude got me looking elsewhere.

It came down to 2 pairs. AE had a sale on boots in Dark brown cordovan for $599..and I found a pair of BNIB Alden Jump Boots in #8 for $650. Perhaps it's brand loyalty..but I couldn't pass up the Alden's. I would have taken both but doubt my wife would have been happy about adding an undiscussed pair (there's always another shoe on sale 🙄). She's a great wife and supportive of my hobbies but a 4th pair in under 6 weeks would probably be seen as excessive. I'll have to wait until we're in London in July to mention any "bargains" I might find 😁.

Oh, those AEs you hooked me up with 10 years ago or so are still going strong. I just brought them into the cobbler last week for a bit of work but they're one of my go to travel shoes and have seen more airports than most Americans 😂.

Seens I'm starting to ramble..better cut it off here. I should stop hitting the forums at 1am..🙃
 
@justonemore these are Ravello Cordovan Medalion Cap Toe Bluchers on Aberdeen Last.

I was told directly in 2023 by Alden themselves that the demand and production for rare Shell shoes is at an all time low, whilst boots are extremely popular.

This same individual stated we can expect to see more and more boots and less and less shoes being produced by Alden in rare colorations.

They said the increasing rise in casual attire exacerbated by the pandemic is to blame.

FWIW, these derby’s are yet another exquisite example of Alden shoemaking and I would place this pair on par with the finest makers in the world today.

Aberdeen last is quite elegant…not as much as Plaza but close. Aberdeen is a classic almond shaped last and while it is not as elegant as some of CJ and EG counterparts, nevertheless the overall presentation and build quality are irreproachable. Cheers!

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Most of my shoe purchases have been pairs I just happened upon that were on sale. That's gotten me a pretty decent collection at a pretty decent price, but taking what I happen upon doesn't give me much in the way of choice. I guess it's about time to start hunting specifics and get a few "nicer" pairs... even if I have to pay a bit more. 🤪

Perhaps I'll start looking specifically for something like these I found while browsing pn-line. They werent my size unfortunately.

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@justonemore may I ask what size you wear in Alden? Cheers!
With 2 exceptions all my Alden's are 12E..but I've never tried a D because the store I get my Alden's from only carries Es.

On some of the wider lasts I feel as if a D would be a bit better fit. The Jump Boots I just ordered are a D on the Barrie so I'll be figuring out if D is appropriate soon enough.

I'd say E is correct for these Short Wing Bluchers and Tassels on the Aberdeen. The tassels are the stiffest shoes I own. They were stiff coming out of the box and they're still stiff 13 years later. I've only had the short wings out a fee times but I'd say they're pretty close to being a good fit overall

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Opposite that, these George boots on the Barrie and the PTB on the modified feel as if I could go down to a D.

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The 2 exceptions are 13Es because they were on clearance and I wasn't passing on them at $400 for being a bit big. 😅. No doubt they're a bit roomy but neither have caused me any issues with active all day wearings. The Medallion cap-toes on the Aberdeen have been favorites and the chukkas on the Barrie I use as all weather S-kickers
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@justonemore may I ask what size you wear in Alden? Cheers!
HA. I always forget about my Alden for BB. They've fallen a bit out of favour and don't see much time in the rotation. They are a 13D on the M75 last...which is supposedly about the same as the Plaza (but perhaps a bit larger). The D width works pretty nicely with them. I'd say E on anything narrower but D would be fine for the wider lasts.



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I can sure feel for you. Hope you demanded a 10% discount. 😅😅😅

As usual, another prime example of an Alden beauty that I'd happily add to my collection. As Rod Srewart put it.."some guys have all the luck". 😁.

Funny you post these.. I've been browsing for something similar and was hoping to find a pair of Alden Tanker boots in Ravello or #4. I only have 2 split-toes and neither are shell nor Alden No luck so far but I suppose hunting is half the fun. No hurries anyways, as previously mentioned my wife has been graceful with my recent multiple purchases..but I suppose if I do find something (to include Medallion Cap toes and wings) in a rarer color I suppose I'd have to cross the bridge anyways and hit her up with the idea 🙄.

Still waiting on my jump boots. They got to my mother's just fine. My mother shipped them out just fine. They made it to Zurich just fine at 0800 on the 22nd .and after that no news since. Hopefully tomorrow or I'll have to start tracking them down on Tuesday. 🙃

The cigar shell version looks pretty nice though a bit rustic
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These in #4 are pretty sleek. Think these would be what I'd go fo if I had any type of choice
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@justonemore these are also one of my all time favs. Funny story about these.

Alden NST Saddle Shoe on Barrie Last in Color 4 Shell Cordovan.

They were originally supposed to be whiskey but The Shoe Mart called and asked if it were “ok” if they changed the leather to color 4. As you can imagine I was ecstatic to have them in #4.

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Finally got these delivered today..of course they're calling for cloudy weather and rain the next few days..oh well, no hurries, they'll see the sun soon enough.😁

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@justonemore these are also one of my all time favs. Funny story about these.

Alden NST Saddle Shoe on Barrie Last in Color 4 Shell Cordovan.

They were originally supposed to be whiskey but The Shoe Mart called and asked if it were “ok” if they changed the leather to color 4. As you can imagine I was ecstatic to have them in #4.

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Found these. They're my size. Cigar shell. Decent enough price..though not sure about the Algonquin toe compared to the usual split-toe. Have you handled any of this style in person? Any thoughts?

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I have this V-tip style although it’s in chromexcel and a bit more casual. I think it’s great. I love Alden’s hand-sewn split toes, but I think the V-tip may be ever so slightly more versatile. Mine is a similar aesthetic to Modified, on the 379x last
Thank you for the reply. After browsing photos, the v-tips have grown on me. Ive always enjoyed my split-toes just needed a bit of consideration with the styling. I'll have the next few decades to fully appreciate them as I went ahead and made an offer (which was accepted). Just need to finish up the transaction today. 😁
 
Very nice and make sure the seller is legit
Have you had issues with that? I was thinking that both e-bay and my card offer protection so even if the seller turned out to be sketchy I should be protected. This will only be my 2nd purchase ever on e-bay so not sure of all the ins and outs.

Seller has all positive reviews. Items seem to be smaller collectibles such as antique knives and Christople Silver. He offers to FaceTime items or come view them (though I'm not heading to Berlin for a pair of shoes) and sent me a few newer photos without me requesting it. Seems to know a bit about Alden and their lasts. Claims to have been a casual collector. Mentioned where he got them from. Etc. Guy seems legit.

But I suppose all of that can be faked. The photos he's using were used to list these shoes a few year ago. I found them on The Alden Project website (they went unsold then and he was asking a rather absurd amount imo). I use easily available photos too so don't really hold that as an "issue". His account is newer but he gives details from his previous account (he moved from NY to Berlin and opened a German e-bay account)

Would I prefer a bit more established account and photos not available on-line from 2-3 years ago? Yes. But nothing really screams scam. Seems an awful lot of set up to get $850 for a pair of shoes..

He's asking $100 for the cigar/brown (obviously used a couple times)and $125 for the 8 (looks pretty new)...Crockett and Jones website has them listed at $320.

the newer photos he sent..
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Very nice and make sure the seller is legit
Just spent an hour or so messaging back and forth with the seller discussing life and hobbies...If he's not legit he's a top notch scam artist with one hell of an awesome backstory... 😅 ...Of course there's always a margin for error...but I'm now 99.99% certain he's legit...😁. Just made payment for the shoes and both belts. Soon my first Cigar Aldens will be here. Still not a prime enough example to compete with the great Watchman but...I'll get you my pretty, and your little dog too. 😂
 
Yes, seems like a go!

I’m always just looking out for folks. I hope you enjoy those shoes!

Cigar is such a classic shade! Beautiful
Well, I certainly thank you for looking out for me. As is the reminder was needed. In my excitement I hadn't given scam artists much thought...and of course that's a real possibility. After you mentioned it I went back and did a better job of researching the seller. So thank you for bringing up an important step that everyone should give consideration when purchasing on-line.

I'm sure these will see plenty of time in the rotation and am looking forward to trying some of these different shell options. I have my eyes on a pair of whiskey short wing bals on the Tremont last but will let them sit for now. I stiill haven't taken the boots I recently purchased out, I have a pair on the way, and then there are the numerous other pairs that deserve a turn in the rotation. Also might be nice to save the budget in case I run into something I prefer in Ravello or #4 ..or even a different style whiskey versus a Balmoral.
 
@justonemore did you ever receive the new cigars?

And, if so, what are your impressions?

Cheers!
Watchman my old friend, you are just as impatient as I am. 😁 They should arrive Monday. Hopefully within 48 hours I will be posting photos and first impressions...as for today..I was "stuck" wearing PTBs in good ole #8. 😅