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I ordered my first pair of flannel trousers from BB during their sale this week. I've been looking at the options for flannels at O'Connells as well. But in reading some old forum topics I've seen mentions of other heavy fabrics. I'm interested in learning more about cavalry twills and garbadines. For a late fall and winter trouser, do you prefer one over another? Can you wear a traditional worsted wool navy blazer with these fabrics?

My pocket book is starting to become unsure the benefit of finding this forum.

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My single biggest source is Paul Fredrick. But most of the 8 are patterned, due to lack of availability of solids in my size. Next is Spier and Mackay. I have 4 and find them a tiny bit plusher than PF and only a few dollars more. Again finding my size in stock is the challenge. Both are under $100 with sales and bundling.

Next up and the best value for a really heft flannel and coming in at around $225 are Dapper Classics Hertling trousers. I have bought every solid they have in my size, having 3 and waiting for 2 others to appear in stock.

My softest, thickest flannels are BB. They are outrageously priced so Ive only been able to nab 2 over the years when available at deep 40% discount.

All the above have mid to high rise, French flies, nice drape, and the weight goes up from PF to S&K to Dapper to BB, all are good medium to heavy weight.

I have 2 LE flannels that are a small percent poly and 1 pure wool Donnegal. The poly/wool are fine, you would not notice the small amount of synthetic, but the rise is on the low side of mid rise, and the closure is a simple button and hook. Still worth it when on sale as they are eminently wearable. I just prefer a French fly and 10 1/2 to 12 inch rise. They are 10 inch and hard to find.

For Cav twills, I use PC. Unless another color besides Lovat and Loden are available elsewhere, which I haven’t found, then they are the best game in town. They work well with textured jackets, tweeds, and blazers. But my winter blazers are both Lambs wool as compared to my summer serge and hoopsack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My single biggest source is Paul Fredrick. But most of the 8 are patterned, due to lack of availability of solids in my size. Next is Spier and Mackay. I have 4 and find them a tiny bit plusher than PF and only a few dollars more. Again finding my size in stock is the challenge. Both are under $100 with sales and bundling.

Next up and the best value for a really heft flannel and coming in at around $225 are Dapper Classics Hertling trousers. I have bought every solid they have in my size, having 3 and waiting for 2 others to appear in stock.

My softest, thickest flannels are BB. They are outrageously priced so Ive only been able to nab 2 over the years when available at deep 40% discount.

All the above have mid to high rise, French flies, nice drape, and the weight goes up from PF to S&K to Dapper to BB, all are good medium to heavy weight.

I have 2 LE flannels that are a small percent poly and 1 pure wool Donnegal. The poly/wool are fine, you would not notice the small amount of synthetic, but the rise is on the low side of mid rise, and the closure is a simple button and hook. Still worth it when on sale as they are eminently wearable. I just prefer a French fly and 10 1/2 to 12 inch rise. They are 10 inch and hard to find.

For Cav twills, I use PC. Unless another color besides Lovat and Loden are available elsewhere, which I haven't found, then they are the best game in town. They work well with textured jackets, tweeds, and blazers. But my winter blazers are both Lambs wool as compared to my summer serge and hoopsack.
In your opinion is flannel or cav twill a better winter fabric?

Interesting about the BB flannel. I ordered a pair and it didn't seem particularly heavy. I should order a pair from Dapper and compare. The BB was also pretty snug cut. It was a Madison cut, which I thought was their fullest. I'd hate to try on the slimmer cuts.

Any experience with O'Connell's flannels?

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The BB are 1818 trousers so maybe they are heftier than their others. i agree, they arent the fullest cut. S&M, and Hertling are a bit fuller. PC is a real full cut, which is quite liberating.

I dont have OConnells.

Cav Twill and flannel are so completely different that I can’t think of a way of comparing them. Flannel is warm and soft and fuzzy. Cav twill is heavy, warm and hangs absolutely straight, with a noticeable twill pattern, and impermeability to penetration by liquids. A mythical cloth that shrugs off the goop thrown at it all day long. Stiff compared to flannel, military like in its crease and drape. They stand at attention all day long. I find them too starchily conservative for my most rough hewn country tweeds. They pair better with the more refined less “Andy Rooney eyebrows” tweeds, and blazers.
 

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For the well-moneyed -

https://www.oconnellsclothing.com/Trousers/

Flannel comes in various weights, but the trend in most trousers sold in the U.S. is toward the lightest weights in cloth.

As stated, flannel should be warmest, but that is at least a product of the particular weight of the cloth from which they're made. Cavalry twill comes in variety of weights, but the traditional variety is as momsdoc describes it. While warm cloth, I find flannel wears warmer.

Gabardine is good for fall and spring, and the tissue thin variety that now seems to dominate the U.S. market can be worn in summer. But irrespective of weight, it tends to wear very cool in cold weather, and is therefore not really suitable for winter in colder areas.
 

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Even though the PC cav twills weight more thanflannel, and are wind proof, I also find flannel warmer. Maybe its the tactile feel of the soft fuzzy material.

I also think they give a richer look with sports coats than cav twills.

For casual wear cav twills give the dressiest look followed by cords then moleskins. Even though moleskins are cotton I think they are warmer then even flannels.

I have not been fortunate enough to try wool cords, but would give them a try if I ran across some wide wale ones. I saw a site that had wool cords, but don’t remember which site it was, I think it was O’Connell’s.

Anyone care to comment on wool cords and sources?
 

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I've been thinking about getting some wool trousers also. I've never had a pair. The ones at BB are pretty expensive, although, they seem pretty nice. I've noticed as far as BB's sizing, when I get pants there, I have to go up a size in the waist. I'll wear one size everywhere else and a size up at BB.
 

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Even though the PC cav twills weight more thanflannel, and are wind proof, I also find flannel warmer. Maybe its the tactile feel of the soft fuzzy material.
The nap of flannel is why it is warmer than cavalry twill. The nap closes up gaps in the weave to provide a more solid barrier between your legs and the outside air.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I've been thinking about getting some wool trousers also. I've never had a pair. The ones at BB are pretty expensive, although, they seem pretty nice. I've noticed as far as BB's sizing, when I get pants there, I have to go up a size in the waist. I'll wear one size everywhere else and a size up at BB.
I found this too. I ordered my size and could barely button it. The seat was pretty tight, too.

BB does have flannels at 40% off currently.

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Turns out is Oconnellsthat carries the wool cords. Now I remember the reason I couldn’t buy them. At this time of year they have only a couple of sizes left in each color. None are even close to my size. I’ll have to get an early jump on ordering some next year. Also judging by the pic, they are thin wale

The only mill producing wool corduroy seems to be Lori Piana.From what I can gathe Samuelson has an exclusive right to the material and uses it exclusively for suits.
 

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For the well-moneyed -

https://www.oconnellsclothing.com/Trousers/

Flannel comes in various weights, but the trend in most trousers sold in the U.S. is toward the lightest weights in cloth.

As stated, flannel should be warmest, but that is at least a product of the particular weight of the cloth from which they're made. Cavalry twill comes in variety of weights, but the traditional variety is as momsdoc describes it. While warm cloth, I find flannel wears warmer.

Gabardine is good for fall and spring, and the tissue thin variety that now seems to dominate the U.S. market can be worn in summer. But irrespective of weight, it tends to wear very cool in cold weather, and is therefore not really suitable for winter in colder areas.
I've been thinking about getting some wool trousers also. I've never had a pair. The ones at BB are pretty expensive, although, they seem pretty nice. I've noticed as far as BB's sizing, when I get pants there, I have to go up a size in the waist. I'll wear one size everywhere else and a size up at BB.
If you ever order from Peter Christian, go up two sizes. They're not only not vanity sized, they're insult you sized. "You thought you weren't that fat? Think again."
 

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If you ever order from Peter Christian, go up two sizes. They're not only not vanity sized, they're insult you sized. "You thought you weren't that fat? Think again."
I'll have to keep that in mind. It could be that these stores have more correct sizes and other stores alter the sizing to make people feel better about themselves. So, if I wear a 36 waist everywhere else, maybe it's really a 38 waist like BB keeps telling me.
 

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In your opinion is flannel or cav twill a better winter fabric?

Interesting about the BB flannel. I ordered a pair and it didn't seem particularly heavy. I should order a pair from Dapper and compare. The BB was also pretty snug cut. It was a Madison cut, which I thought was their fullest. I'd hate to try on the slimmer cuts.

Any experience with O'Connell's flannels?

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I own one pair of hickey freeman flannel trousers that were still prohibitively expensive at 50% off but are heavier than the BB

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