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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today we can look at why the stripes on the shoulders do not match.

First we should look at the pattern, you will see that the side marked (LEFT) is small the other side (this is called the forepart, or better non as the front), (RIGHT) this is called the back.

Each pattern cutter will leave about ¾ inch on the back shoulder (some times, you will need to leave more, if the cloth takes more fullness, such as cashmere.).

In the next two photos you can see the front shoulder is small than the back. The cloth out side of the chalk is called "inlay".

In the next photo, you can see the jacket has been marked ready to sew the shoulders together.

You can see the shoulder is now been basted together

Here is a larger photo of the same shoulder, showing the fullness. The Fullness is placed over a certain part of the shoulder (the fullness should be over the mussel next to the neck, the fullness helps the cloth go over it thus stopping a pulling and helping the tailor work the shoulder forward.

This is the pad that I use to press the fullness away; you will see the pad has a round to it. The fullness should be pressed towards the middle / center of the back. It should not be pressed towards the shoulder point.

The shoulder is placed on the pad, ready to press

The iron then presses the fullness way.

Here you can see the fullness pressed away.

The seam is then opened, again pressing the fullness away (again the tailor, should not press towards the shoulder points).

Once the shoulder seam has been opened, it can be basted and then the tailor can mark and put the collar on.

The placing and making of a collar will be a new post .


Regards,

Darren Beaman
Savile Row
Master Tailor

A little bed time read

www.savile-row.com
 
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