My understanding is that the production by Horween, the only tanner of shell, of other colors is very limited. And that lighter shell such as ravello, and particularly whiskey, is significantly more difficult to produce as it requires near perfect hide/shell for tanage.

 

Alden has relatively small production capacity. As it stands now the company has little finished shoe inventory of core models, and retail dealers have a long wait just to fill in sizes of standard styles. Special make-up orders are backed up six months or longer. Business is so strong Alden is challenged just to schedule the production for the shoes already ordered, so adding a new color or two is not happening.

 

I have heard that Alden only has a couple of employees that are able to finish shell cordovan in those colors.

 

Carmina gives the impression of having 4 standard colors that look to correspond to Alden's, but I don't know if they're all ready to be shipped when ordered or if they're doing their own dying or other finishing of the Horween shell. AE Strands & RL Marlow/Darltons suggest that brown, at least, should be available. Thanks for the information.

Nick D.

 

Another poster said it: if the finished leather product is going to be lighter than the average blemish on the average animal's skin (look at your arm, for reference) there is going to be far less suitable raw material available. Dark burgundy and black finish will hide those average discolorations. Cigar a few but not all. Ravello and whiskey almost none. All of these are going to be special order most of the time.

 

Alden has relatively small production capacity. As it stands now the company has little finished shoe inventory of core models, and retail dealers have a long wait just to fill in sizes of standard styles. Special make-up orders are backed up six months or longer. Business is so strong Alden is challenged just to schedule the production for the shoes already ordered, so adding a new color or two is not happening.

This situation seems to correspond to the classic economic supply-and-demand dynamic in which market forces result in new competitors entering the system to meet demand and maximize revenues. The Horween situation may be limiting that possibility. Could the Florsheim by Duckie Brown shell entries be seen as a market response, if an imperfect one from our perspective as consumers?

Nick D.

 

$400 to $800 mens footwear , while in short supply from small volume manufacturer Alden, will not become a fashion trend where retailers and consumers exhibit enough demand to provoke the creation of new producers.
Prior to the era of imported footwear, in addition to Alden and Allen Edmonds, companies like Florsheim, Dexter, ET Wright, Johnston and Murphy and more were all producing Made In USA Goodyear welted dress and dress casual shoes. Now only Alden and AE remain as US production operations. AE , for better or worse, has expanded their production to become a volume oriented producer. Alden remains steadfast to its company roots of high quality, limited capacity production.
The Florsheim-Duckie Brown thing I think is a play towards evoking interest from the once iconic US brand name Florsheim mixed with the "fashion forward" culture of Duckie Brown. Traditional American styling imported to save costs and then offered in wild colors to create a buzz through cheap publicity. It's a sell out , not a true comparison to the honest shoes of Alden or AE.

This situation seems to correspond to the classic economic supply-and-demand dynamic in which market forces result in new competitors entering the system to meet demand and maximize revenues. The Horween situation may be limiting that possibility. Could the Florsheim by Duckie Brown shell entries be seen as a market response, if an imperfect one from our perspective as consumers?

Nick D.

 

I think Alden spends more time on producing their Whiskey, Ravello, and Cigar shoes. Not just finishing, but at all steps. Every pair of "special" shells I've purchased from Alden has been completely free of construction flaws - I'm at about 50% rejects in color #8. I don't think that Alden would be able to get away with some of their sloppy construction on the lighter shells since it would be so much more visible. I suspect it would cut down their production numbers by a large amount if they were to produce equal quantities of all colors. Either that, or the quality of the lighter shades would fall to where #8 is now.

 

I think Alden spends more time on producing their Whiskey, Ravello, and Cigar shoes. Not just finishing, but at all steps. Every pair of "special" shells I've purchased from Alden has been completely free of construction flaws - I'm at about 50% rejects in color #8. I don't think that Alden would be able to get away with some of their sloppy construction on the lighter shells since it would be so much more visible. I suspect it would cut down their production numbers by a large amount if they were to produce equal quantities of all colors. Either that, or the quality of the lighter shades would fall to where #8 is now.

You make me think that I shouldn't buy the standard models by Alden and save up my nickels to buy from Leffot, Leather Soul, or 1 of the other specialty shops. Thanks,

Nick D.

 

You make me think that I shouldn't buy the standard models by Alden and save up my nickels to buy from Leffot, Leather Soul, or 1 of the other specialty shops. Thanks,

Nick D.

I think you should buy whatever you want but be sure to check them over carefully (in every way possible) to make sure you're happy with the quality before you wear them. Make sure not to get them in your hands, get excited, and decide you can live with some flaws to have them now.

Also, I would take color #8 over Cigar all day every day. Color #8 is more versatile than Whiskey as well. The only color that I think strictly dominates #8 is Ravello, though I'm not sure I'd want a complete rotation of Ravello shoes. Color #8 is really nice looking, goes with almost everything, and works in a conservative environment.

 

I think you should buy whatever you want but be sure to check them over carefully (in every way possible) to make sure you're happy with the quality before you wear them. Make sure not to get them in your hands, get excited, and decide you can live with some flaws to have them now.

Also, I would take color #8 over Cigar all day every day. Color #8 is more versatile than Whiskey as well. The only color that I think strictly dominates #8 is Ravello, though I'm not sure I'd want a complete rotation of Ravello shoes. Color #8 is really nice looking, goes with almost everything, and works in a conservative environment.

Thanks for the advice. With the zeal of a new shell convert I've ordered #8 monks from Alfred Sargent, black PTB Leeds from AE, & brown Strands from AE. None have arrived yet. My initial impression of the whiskey is that the color is too light for my tastes, but I've seen pix of worn whiskey that looks darker & (to my mind) nicer than the new ones. Ravello in a longwing or Chukka will probably be my next object of desire.

Nick D.

 

Thanks for the advice. With the zeal of a new shell convert I've ordered #8 monks from Alfred Sargent, black PTB Leeds from AE, & brown Strands from AE. None have arrived yet. My initial impression of the whiskey is that the color is too light for my tastes, but I've seen pix of worn whiskey that looks darker & (to my mind) nicer than the new ones. Ravello in a longwing or Chukka will probably be my next object of desire.

Nick D.

You are a serious shopper! The brown Strands were a good choice. I don't own any AE shell but if I were going to, those would be the shoes. I think they're nicer than any regular production shell Alden.

Your comment regarding Whiskey is spot on. I've seen, and passed on, pairs that were so light they looked like band-aids. On the other hand, I'm wearing a pair of Whiskey shell C&J loafers (purchased on this forum) that are nearly as dark as any of my Ravello shells. The color has a tan, as oppose to red, undertone but they are nearly as dark.

Consider C&J shells for future purchase. My last three pairs have been from C&J and I like them more than my Aldens. The lasts fit my feet better, and C&J is much more flexible regarding recrafting.

 

You are a serious shopper! The brown Strands were a good choice. I don't own any AE shell but if I were going to, those would be the shoes. I think they're nicer than any regular production shell Alden.

Your comment regarding Whiskey is spot on. I've seen, and passed on, pairs that were so light they looked like band-aids. On the other hand, I'm wearing a pair of Whiskey shell C&J loafers (purchased on this forum) that are nearly as dark as any of my Ravello shells. The color has a tan, as oppose to red, undertone but they are nearly as dark.

Consider C&J shells for future purchase. My last three pairs have been from C&J and I like them more than my Aldens. The lasts fit my feet better, and C&J is much more flexible regarding recrafting.

I had an unexpected bonus at the end of the summer and took advantage of the AE sale, so I was able to rationalize my splurge as good deals and treasure trove. I would've bought Aldens from Leather Soul, Leffot, or JGilbert, but the limited editions that I liked were all long gone or in wait-8-to-14-month preorder. The next time I get some funny money I'm considering getting Alfred Sargent to copy some Alden whiskey-and-black saddle shoes that Leather Soul commissioned a while back.

I didn't know that C&J did shell in any color other than brown. Are their MTO prices in the same ballpark as their standard shells?

Thanks again for the information,

Nick D.

 

Think hard about those whiskey and ravello shells

A tenet of Florsheim salesmanship, back in the day, was that "you can't see inside a man's billfold." Only he knows what he's got in there and what he's willing to do with it.

If everyone on this board had a come-to-Jesus moment about the amount they spend on shoes relative to what they actually have in their billfolds, I think many of us would be down on our knees, weeping and crying for forgiveness.

So. Whiskey and ravello shell cordovan shoes. With taxes and shipping, we are talking about $700-$800 a pair.

How often is one really going to wear these shoes? They are beautiful, but they may be a beauty that a self-proclaimed "recent convert" might want to admire as one admires art.

If, like me, you are enthralled by these elegant colors, may I recommend you experiment with a much cheaper but still excellent shoe in a comparable color to see if you really want it or where it fits into your fashion scheme of maneuver?

For $300-$500 you can buy the AE natural Elgin or Mactavish, a number of English shoes in colors such as "acorn" and "cognac," which are light rich browns like the whiskey and ravello shells. Loake and Grenson offer these light rich browns in brogues for about the price of a natural Elgin or Mactavish. You can find them on Herring Shoes, which is very reputable.

If you find yourself wearing them, then you can upgrade to the Alden whiskey and ravello or a Tricker's shoe, which makes many, many beautiful things in light rich browns.

Use the old ones for rainy days? Build your rotation of really good shoes slowly and deliberately. Save stress on your billfold?

 

Now only Alden and AE remain as US production operations.

I don't think that's true. Walkover is one -

https://www.walkover.com/

There's another, the name of which I don't know, that makes for G. H. Bass.

And I believe there may be a few remaining that do private label and have never retailed under their own name.

 

I would've bought Aldens from Leather Soul, Leffot, or JGilbert,

You may wish to add Shoemart to that list, as they also have Alden shell limited editions run up.

Example: Alden LHS in 5 shades of shell -

 

I don't think that's true. Walkover is one -

https://www.walkover.com/

There's another, the name of which I don't know, that makes for G. H. Bass.

And I believe there may be a few remaining that do private label and have never retailed under their own name.

There's a company I hadn't heard of. Thanks.

 

You may wish to add Shoemart to that list, as they also have Alden shell limited editions run up.

Example: Alden LHS in 5 shades of shell -

I did consider their offerings, but they didn't seem quite as appealingly different as some of the others I mentioned. I still may end up ordering from them, since they seem to have excellent customer service.

 

I did consider their offerings, but they didn't seem quite as appealingly different as some of the others I mentioned. I still may end up ordering from them, since they seem to have excellent customer service.

Different? How about a ravello shell dress boot for your country suit?

 

You may wish to add Shoemart to that list, as they also have Alden shell limited editions run up.

Example: Alden LHS in 5 shades of shell -

Do they actually have them, or are they just showing them on the website? Any time I check my size for something special on their website it's not in stock.

 

You may wish to add Shoemart to that list, as they also have Alden shell limited editions run up.

Example: Alden LHS in 5 shades of shell -

Indeed! Also they are the single authorized source (that I am aware of) for Alden seconds, offering a chance for those so inclined to get Alden designs and occassionally the much sought after lighter hues of shell cordovan offerings for a fraction of the price for which the shoes normally sell and generall exhibit only minor cosmetic flaws that are frequently quite difficult to even detect! Recently picked up a pair of Alden's Ranger mocs, crafted in whiskey shell cordovan for a price that was just under $300 less that the advertised retail price.

 

Do they actually have them, or are they just showing them on the website? Any time I check my size for something special on their website it's not in stock.

I've wondered whether they really had all of the sizes available in the rarer colors. I guess I won't know until I try to order some.

 

Indeed! Also they are the single authorized source (that I am aware of) for Alden seconds, offering a chance for those so inclined to get Alden designs and occassionally the much sought after lighter hues of shell cordovan offerings for a fraction of the price for which the shoes normally sell and generall exhibit only minor cosmetic flaws that are frequently quite difficult to even detect! Recently picked up a pair of Alden's Ranger mocs, crafted in whiskey shell cordovan for a price that was just under $300 less that the advertised retail price.

That's good to know. I ordered AE Leeds seconds recently and sent them back b/c 1 of the shoes didn't fit quite right. I'm waiting for their replacements. I had been wondering whether Alden also offered seconds, but their smaller production runs and reputation for bad customer service made me skeptical.

 

^^
Email www.theshoemart.com and ask to be placed to the mailing lists for their Alden seconds, in your sizes (sizing can vary, based on the last on which the shoes are crafted). The list seems to be updated every couple of months. You might be suprised at the range of offerings available!

 

That's good to know. I ordered AE Leeds seconds recently and sent them back b/c 1 of the shoes didn't fit quite right. I'm waiting for their replacements. I had been wondering whether Alden also offered seconds, but their smaller production runs and reputation for bad customer service made me skeptical.

Some people seem to have great luck with Alden seconds and Shoemart. I've had bad luck with both.