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I'm on the search for the best button down collar to wear with both a tie and without. Understanding that BB introduced the button down, I don't seem to care for their modern bd(BB, Polo), instead I like a larger collar, maybe more of an English or Italian bd. Harvie and Hudson display a nice bd collar on their website. Any thoughts/ideas on what makes the ideal button down collar-dimensions and who manufactures, particularly in America? Thanks.
 

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I am still unfamiliar with the general perceptions behind each type of collar, but is the button-down collar kind of traditional/old-fashioned? I get this sense because BB makes several BD shirts, while they're less common at the other shirtmakers. I also almost never see students wearing them. They're all wearing spread collars if they're not wearing a tie.
 

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Ben Silver BD collars are very nice. Shirts are a little bloomy and you'll need them taken in a bit.

I'm sure they do the same collar in a MTM.

Otherwise, BB is the acknowledged standard, and really works well with bows.
 

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I am still unfamiliar with the general perceptions behind each type of collar, but is the button-down collar kind of traditional/old-fashioned? I get this sense because BB makes several BD shirts, while they're less common at the other shirtmakers. I also almost never see students wearing them. They're all wearing spread collars if they're not wearing a tie.
My stepson, who is in college, doesn't like them, I know. I don't whether he considers them old fashioned or merely insufficiently dressy...or maybe it's because I wear BD collars most of the time.
 

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I am always really impressed when I see someone wearing a brooks brothers shirt. Do they have a button at the back?
No, they do not have that little button at the back of the collar, nor do they have a locker loop at the top of the center box pleat in back (another feature sometimes prized as a special quality point in a highly "trad" buttondown-collar shirt).

To the other poster who asked about general perceptions of collar types: Yes, the b.d. collar is considered pretty much the most "trad" (or, if you like, old-fashioned) style. For many years, J. Press sold almost exclusively shirts with either b.d. or plain-point collars (plus the occasional club collar). Spread collars of various types are considered more European or British in inspiration, and could be said to appear more fashion-forward and "sophisticated" (whatever that means, exactly) in the eyes of many.

In terms of formality, the spread outranks the b.d. The b.d. is the most casual collar that can be worn with a tie. Some even maintain that the b.d. is so casual as to be inappropriate for wear with a suit even when one is wearing a tie. Leaving aside wing collars (which nowadays are almost exclusively formalwear items), the cutaway (extremely spread) collar is the most formal shirt collar that a man can wear, with of course the most formal version of all being one in plain white broadcloth with double (French) cuffs.
 

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While the OP states a dislike for BB's button down collars, BB's traditional fit OCBDs are a mainstay in my wardrobe...just yesterday the Fed-Ex guy delivered the first of two orders, constituting my annual resupply of these shirts. They are comfortable, durable, provide a great look and the best collar roll I've seen on button down shirts of any maufacturer, and all at the right price. One just can't ask for much more than that! ;)
 

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Italian

I really like Loro Piana's button downs.
 

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I'm on the search for the best button down collar to wear with both a tie and without. Understanding that BB introduced the button down, I don't seem to care for their modern bd(BB, Polo), instead I like a larger collar, maybe more of an English or Italian bd. Harvie and Hudson display a nice bd collar on their website. Any thoughts/ideas on what makes the ideal button down collar-dimensions and who manufactures, particularly in America? Thanks.
I find that Prada BD's are generally on the generous side.
 

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I have been doing some experimentation with button downs. I think "working man" inspired clothing and design features will move into fashion going forward. I think in this economy people will go for sturdy clothes and they will want to look like they work hard even if only subconsciously. I also think plaids will continue to be popular especially hunting plaids.

See what you think.....and no it's not ironed! I am kicking back today round the house.

https://flic.kr/p/3351108071
https://flic.kr/p/3351108075
https://flic.kr/p/3351108079
I think I may start doing them with the box pleat at the back but slimmed down down slightly as well as stitched down so it doesn't work it's just a feature. The hanger hoop could be good too. The collar on this is a bit "European looking"
 

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Very similar to the Prada collars I referred to, except the back button of course, but yours is a much more informal look. Do you think the the loop is going to add anything, or do you prefer it aesthetically?
 
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