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· Aficianado
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Let me clarify,white LINEN,not polyester.Could it work without looking like a waiter?And what about wearing it with midnight blue trousers instead of black,like in the photo?




I think the fellow in the center looks great,and the guy in the background to his right doesn't look half bad either (this lends credence to buying a maroon cummerbund).
 

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Personally I love the look. It shows you care enough not to spill soup on yourself. I have a white suit I'm waiting for garden party season to wear.

I did wear a white, notch lapel blazer to a wedding once and was considered very appropriately dressed. Although in all honesty, it was an odd jacket.

Thomas
 

· Aficianado
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If the cut and material are clearly superior to those of a typical maitre d' jacket, then I think you can get away with it. Personally, I prefer off-white/cream/beige for men, but that's just me.
My Summer DJ is ivory,but I thought that a true white would look great when on vacation in the Tropics.
 

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I am not very knowledgeable (okay, who said 'sit down then Jim') about this matter, but I would think off white/cream would look better. Not only might a white jacket give the impression of a serving person, but I think a white jacket and a white shirt might look odd.

In any event, those old illustrations from AA and Esky are really great. It might be a huge task to compile, but a collection of all of the issues would really be great. For other folks who like them, a number have been posted at FL by Marc.
 

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To avoid looking like a waiter, avoid the wing collar the man in front is wearing and wear a turndown collar like the man in back. Wear pocket square and a black cummerbund. The shawl collar like in the picture is best, but peak lapels are also appropriate. A notch lapel is what waiters most commonly wear. The buttons should be mother-of-pearl, not fabric-covered. Forward-pleated trousers worn at the waist like the men in the picture will set you above everyone else. If you want your white dinner jacket to look especially unique, get a double-breasted one.
 

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It can definitely look good. My vote would be for the shawl lapel. Anything non-polyester and well tailored will probably look great. I like Matt S's suggestion for a double-breasted jacket - very sharp.

Slightly off topic (still related) is a darker non-ivory jacket, perhaps like natural linen. I believe there was an example in the movie Houseboat with Cary Grant. Someone at the club party at the end was wearing such a dinner jacket. I apologize I don't have the details, but I think this type of jacket was mentioned once in AA. Like the white linen, this gives a unique touch to the outfit.

pbc
 

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Add a pocket square or a boutonniere and there will be no mistaking you for the help. Opera pumps will destroy any lingering doubts.
 

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Those are all great looks, and nothing wrong with white in linen as long as the details and accesories are correct. I would stay away from wing collars, but thats just me.

If I am not mistaken, a maroon or "wine" colored cummerbund was highly appropriate with warm weather black tie in the 30's.

I like the guy on our right: Midnight blue trousers, light blue pleated turn down collar shirt, and blue piping on the lapels of his ivory jacket. I've thought of all that except the piping on the jacket.

"service dress yankee" with club tie further on the right is smashing, as are is the all black 1b, sb, peaked in the middle.

All good!!

Where is Esky now when we need him??

And there is no mistaking for the staff if you carry yourself like you belong.
 

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My guess is . . .

. . . that if wool could actually be rendered white, then white would become the preferred shade.

What an interesting mix of styles in that drawing. And a boater with black tie?

Seems to me that a shawl collar would be the key to avoiding the waiter look.
 

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I did a MTM SB self faced shawl DJ in off white/ivory this summer. I'm pleased with the result. I considered white, but somehow it seemed a little bright to start with and seemed destined over the years to mellow to an off-white anyway. I was at an affair in July where 1/3 of the dj wearers were not black. The few white/white DJ seemed to look a little road worn.
 

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I did a MTM SB self faced shawl DJ in off white/ivory this summer. I'm pleased with the result.
I've been thinking of doing a similar project. May I ask whom you used?
 

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I used the sometimes maligned Ravi, the Thai tailor who measured me for a suit and shirt on a visit to the US in 2007. They fit. The quality was good and I ordered another MTM last spring before springing for the DJ in August. Prices on his website have gone up a bit--ravistailor.com--but the selection of styles is vast. You can order sample swatches.
He will copy a jacket that fits you, or you can do your own measurements--but far safer is meeting him personally on one of his trips here so he can measure you personally. Some members have not been satisfied with his work in the past--it's done in Thailand by his staff--but I have nothing to complain about besides the dollar's decline.
I wore one of his suits to my first granddaughter's christening last Sunday and at the brunch afterwards a couple of Washington lawyers asked where I got the "nice suit"--SBPL in a subtle gray herringbone, with a not-so-subtle bright red bemberg lining. My party suit.
 

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Many thanks!
 
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