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I know who the general players are for NYC: Ascot Chang, Turnbull, Talbott, Pink, Paris Custom, Geneva, Kabbaz, etc. I want to know which shirts are the best in terms of construction. I was always drawn to the bright stripes of Turnbull & Asser but was disappointed to learn that they offer only double-needle seams. One of the very first things that I learned about custom shirting was that single- needle seems are considered superior. Moreover, Turnbull requires a minimum of 6 shirts per order, and, at $250+ a clip for openers, you're talking about an awful lot of money for a shirt that does not have single-needle seams.

I have yet to see a RTW shirt that has the same appearance of a genuine bespoke garment. It's all in the collar. Bespoke collars have a unique look to them that I have been unable to accurately reduce to words. When I see bespoke, I know it. All of these RTW shirts have flimsy, disposable collars that either don't sit correctly or are too small.

Quite right, old bean!
 

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In my opinon the best shirtmaker is Robert Whittaker who is with Dege & Skinner. Go to their website and see when they will be in NYC. Over the years I have gone to many of the shirtmakers you mentioned and I was not that satisfied. T&A was my least favorite.
 
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