Men's Clothing Forums banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,387 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was in Filene's Basement yesterday and had a good thought.

There happened to be some very, very nice Italian jackets in stock last night. Brioni, Borelli. I tried some of these on and was a touch upset that they didn't have a whole lot in my size. For a minute. I realized that these clothes were beautifully made - tons of handwork, beautiful finishing, great fabrics, nice cuts. But even at Filene's prices they were outrageously expensive. Many of these garments were originally priced in the bespoke range. For as nice as they were, however, none of them fit as well as my MTM garments that cost fractions. While my MTM stuff may not have quite the fancy detailing, it is still very well made by any standard with handwork where it counts, full canvassing, etc.

Why pay so much for all of these details when the garment will never fit correctly? I just don't get it. Hyper-expensive OTR doesn't make sense to me. Proper MTM will always be a better fit and truthfully, what good is a garment is it doesn't fit?

Thoughts?


-TL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
499 Posts
Some people don't have easy access to mtm, don't know about it, are intimidated by it, or just like to say they own a Brioni.

And some people fit perfectly into them with little alteration required. To each his own.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,387 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Some people don't have easy access to mtm, don't know about it, are intimidated by it, or just like to say they own a Brioni.

And some people fit perfectly into them with little alteration required. To each his own.
But not as perfectly as they would into proper MTM (or even bespoke at this price)...

And if you are spending this money, or even know about the Brioni name for that matter, then you know about custom clothing. Brioni isn't exactly a household name and those that know it surely know clothing more than most.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,254 Posts
... or even know about the Brioni name for that matter, then you know about custom clothing. Brioni isn't exactly a household name and those that know it surely know clothing more than most.
That's not entirely true - Brioni has much wider name recognition than most (if not all) bespoke/MTM makers. On top of that, it is somewhat of a destination for people that "try to purchase style" - and therefore they can charge a premium for their RTW offerings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
The only rationale I have been able to come up with is that their customers are people for whom the cost of clothing is not a concern, or for those who care (a lot) about the maker of their garments.

I recently went to the Wilkes Bashford in Carmel and saw a beautiful windowpane cashmere sportcoat on a mannequin. The helpful saleswoman went to the back and got my size, and it fit perfectly. Then I took it off and saw the maker (Kiton) and the price ($5400!) and nearly passed out. For that price one could easily get two or more entire suits of a nice material MTM. It was, however, easily the nicest article of clothing that I've ever worn, however briefly. But $5400? For a coat? If it'd been around $1000, I would have considered it.

So yes, certainly for me the uber-pricey OTR stuff makes no sense at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
816 Posts
Louche,
I agree. I had never heard of Brioni until I started posting on here. And one would think that if they knew of Brioni, then they would know at least the basic concept of MTM.
IMO, fit is the absolute most important thing, hands down. Why anyone would pay a ton of money for an OTR anything when it would be cheaper to go MTM is beyond me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
816 Posts
That's not entirely true - Brioni has much wider name recognition than most (if not all) bespoke/MTM makers. On top of that, it is somewhat of a destination for people that "try to purchase style" - and therefore they can charge a premium for their RTW offerings.
This is a good point, but it's not about bespoke/MTM makers. It's about the concept of MTM/bespoke.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Some people, such as myself thank God, are pretty close to what an OTR measurement would be. I find that MOST 42R's fit me perfectly in the shoulder and the sleeve, requiring only a slight tuck here and a little sleeve work. In that sense, I would be able to wear one of these (not that I would), with minimal alterations. Some guy with massive shoulders and short arms, obviously, would be better off going the bespoke route...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
816 Posts
Some people, such as myself thank God, are pretty close to what an OTR measurement would be. I find that MOST 42R's fit me perfectly in the shoulder and the sleeve, requiring only a slight tuck here and a little sleeve work. In that sense, I would be able to wear one of these (not that I would), with minimal alterations. Some guy with massive shoulders and short arms, obviously, would be better off going the bespoke route...
So you would rather pay $4k for an OTR Brioni suit instead of $1,100-$1,500 for MTM?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,603 Posts
Also, some people need instant gratification. They walk into a store to buy a suit, and they want it then. They want to feel it, see it, and try it on. Some even want to walk out with it right then and there.

A lot of men don't have the patience or the foresight to wait 2-4+ weeks for a suit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,113 Posts
So you would rather pay $4k for an OTR Brioni suit instead of $1,100-$1,500 for MTM?
If the OTR Brioni fits someone as well as the MTM, then the difference between them is fabric, finishing, etc. I would doubt that a MTM suit at the $1,000-$1,500 price point would really compare very well to a Brioni suit on those factors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Kiton

Recently we had a trunk show for Kiton. I tried on the most beautiful sport coat. It felt so light, almost like a pajama top. But $4800 was a bit startling. So I just went and ordered a couple of samuelson MTM suits and I'm happy again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,459 Posts
I agree with you entirely.

Why some men will waste good money on supposed 'quality' garments is beyond me.

I would happily wear a suit made from a polyster sack, providing it was of an excellent tailored fit.

Form over substance, and all that. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
I personally hate wearing visible logos. I value fit/quality most of all; but sometimes I still have to remind myself at the store to ignore the brand name and look at how the garment would work for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,556 Posts
In my experience with bespoke and MTM (and it is VERY limited) I find that although the fit maybe better, it takes a while to break in the custom made garment. OTR just seems to drape and feel a bit better at first, while the bespoke/MTM items took a good number of wearings to break in. Maybe its just the fabric, or construction I chose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
356 Posts
I think a lot of people are very nervous about designing a suit and the tailors ability to properly measure and guide them. This leads to settle on off the rack things that fit...not so well. People would rather see it and know exactly how it fits and feels and looks than trust the guy at the tailoring place he has never heard of.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top