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Armani (say what you will about Armani, but nobody makes me look better)

Pal Zileri (nobody understands silk like Zileri)

Brioni (one in cashmere and one in Pashmina...the quality...the shoulders...the buttons)

Oxxford...(my favorite is a plaid Alpaca. I'm not big or waspy enough, really, to wear Oxxford, but it's a beautiful garment).

Kiton (very delicate, with all those invisible silk stitches...I flex, a few pop...but when I want to feel really special...)
 

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I was never a fan of sportcoats. Then, courtesy of this forum, I learned about Brioni . . . .
 

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I happen to be a pretty natural fit for 48L in the Italians... Brioni/Kiton/Zegna/Armani.

In the past five years or so, Brioni and Zegna have come out with some amazingly deep and rich fabrics in their off-the-rack sportcoats. The problem with the Brioni stuff is that it's around $4800 at Saks for the best ones and for that money you have to really, really like it. Plus you're almost to a Kiton at that point.

My taste, if you can call it that, ranges towards the more outrageous in sportcoat patterns, which means I can't wear the same one as often. Put that together with my relative poverty compared to many AAAC members and I find myself buying Zegna more than the others.

I'll post a couple of my favorites. Feel free to make fun of my outrageously Jewish appearance, perennial rumpling, et al; these are "candids" and not posed shots. Not that it would help much.

Zegna, with Tom Kristensen in a dicey leather sportcoat:



Kiton, in Gulf Blue and racing stripes, together with the car that inspired it It was something like 105 degrees that day, which made that linen coat crinkle and my hair kind of explode:



Kiton, at Infineon. Ignore the "watch zoom", it was for another thread:



Armani CZ at the 'Ring back in 2006. I offer no excuse for the jeans, other than the fact that I packed ten days' worth of pants for a fourteen-day trip.



Also I've had some luck with Arnold Brant stuff.

The Hickey/Brooks/and other stuff always comes off the rack a bit wide around the waist for me. HSM is better in this regard. I'm fat (48 chest/37 waist) but I'm not "orca fat" and the American coats seem to assume a 42 waist for a 48 chest.
 

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Definitely Kiton for sport coats OTR. I used to order Zegna MTM SC's just because the price point allowed me to choose finer fabrics and they had a model that I loved. Always the same: soft-shouldered Roma, un-constructed.
 
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