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What are the Details and Qualities of the Perfect OCBD?

3277 Views 15 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Peak and Pine
I'm considering having some shirts manufactured. Please describe (all or part) the details of the Perfect Trad OCBD.

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I agree with @Patrick06790 on Mercer. Every aspect is perfection: The collar of course (not just length but also button placement), the (slightly narrower than others) yoke, the billow of an absolutely perfect weight cloth, the button placement on the placket, the lapping of the seams, the two knife pleats rather than the Brooks pucker at the cuffs, the length of the tails. I view Mercer as every bit the equal of a custom shirt. They will make any aspect to your specifications, not just collar and sleeve length. Lastly there are colors. Their blue is much akin to to old blue grey of Brooks, and their pink is softer and more versatile than the darker pink of Brooks. To me the only fault with Mercer is lacking an ecru, but someday I may get a swatch of the cream.

Looking into history I also loved the Gant Hugger of the 1960s. It had a slightly slimmer cut, hence the moniker. It had the same details as Mercer plus a locker loop, a split yoke, a button on the back of the collar, and stitching around the cuff that intersected at the button hole rather than the usual 3/8" down from the top of the cuff. They were nice enough touches that I recall them readily.
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Thanks for these observations. This thread is giving me the perfect excuse to buy my first Mercer shirt.

Brooks Brothers is proud of their 'Six pleat shirring' at the cuff. They consider it a unique feature of a BB shirt.

By 'narrower' you mean placing the collar point buttons closer to the middle of the shirt? In fairly recent versions (2 years old) of same-sized OCBDs J. Press collar point buttons are 3.25 inches apart compared to 3.75 inches for a Brooks Brothers shirt. Of course this gives a significantly different look.
"Narrower" was referring to the yoke. As to Mercer button placement, all I know is that it is perfection. I honestly can think of no reason to go custom rather than Mercer or to pay more (which, astoundingly, is certainly possible!).
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