The collar's got to be a decent length and unlined or unfused or whatever it is that allows it to roll into the ogee shape.

You'll have to translate that into technical language.

As far as I'm concerned Mercer is now the gold standard.

 

I agree with @Patrick06790 on Mercer. Every aspect is perfection: The collar of course (not just length but also button placement), the (slightly narrower than others) yoke, the billow of an absolutely perfect weight cloth, the button placement on the placket, the lapping of the seams, the two knife pleats rather than the Brooks pucker at the cuffs, the length of the tails. I view Mercer as every bit the equal of a custom shirt. They will make any aspect to your specifications, not just collar and sleeve length. Lastly there are colors. Their blue is much akin to to old blue grey of Brooks, and their pink is softer and more versatile than the darker pink of Brooks. To me the only fault with Mercer is lacking an ecru, but someday I may get a swatch of the cream.

Looking into history I also loved the Gant Hugger of the 1960s. It had a slightly slimmer cut, hence the moniker. It had the same details as Mercer plus a locker loop, a split yoke, a button on the back of the collar, and stitching around the cuff that intersected at the button hole rather than the usual 3/8" down from the top of the cuff. They were nice enough touches that I recall them readily.

 

...The collar of course (not just length but also button placement), the (slightly narrower than others)...the two knife pleats rather than the Brooks pucker at the cuffs...

Thanks for these observations. This thread is giving me the perfect excuse to buy my first Mercer shirt.

Brooks Brothers is proud of their 'Six pleat shirring' at the cuff. They consider it a unique feature of a BB shirt.

By 'narrower' you mean placing the collar point buttons closer to the middle of the shirt? In fairly recent versions (2 years old) of same-sized OCBDs J. Press collar point buttons are 3.25 inches apart compared to 3.75 inches for a Brooks Brothers shirt. Of course this gives a significantly different look.

 

I was in a local retailer this week and did a double take at some beautiful looking OCBDs in the three classic solids (sadly no yellow or ecru) and blue, pink and green uni stripes. They appear to have all of the classic features and are a nice thick cloth. I have never owned a Mercer, but these shirts seemed much more substantial than the Brooks shirts I have bought over the last several years (and they had a pocket). The collars seemed unfused. Interestingly they are made in Japan which I know has a strong interest in Ivy style, but it was a big surprise to me. I was in a hurry but need to go back and get some details on who makes them.

 

I'm pretty sure the maker of those Japanese shirts is Kamakura. They are famed for the quality of all their shirts. Here, by the way, is a list of OCBD shirtmakers with rankings:

https://effortlessgent.com/best-ocbd-oxford-shirt/

 

I’m not entirely sure what the name of it is, but the middle/side points on shirts (where the front and back fabrics meet) would ideally be a decent length. I only mention this because it is my only complaint about Mercer; theirs comes up way too high. While the front and tail are long enough to remain tucked throughout the day, the two sides always ride up. It is weird and frustrating. Never had that issue with Brooks or Press. A detail to keep in mind!

 

I think the part you are referring to is the side seam gusset, one on each side of the shirt -- the lowest point where the front and back panels join together at the side seam. This is typically higher than the hem of the shirt, and your concern about the Mercer shirts, if I understand you correctly, is that these side seam gussets are too high, and tend to ride up, and perhaps even ride out of the waistband of the trousers.

There are a couple of factors that might be related to this problem: The length of your torso and where your trouser waist rests on your body. Both of these factors might conceivably be involved in the shirt sides riding up or out of the waistband. Have you talked to the folks at Mercer about this issue? I am sure it can be rectified easily.

 

Yes, thank you for informing me. That is the part and I am glad to now know it! They do find themselves above the waist band at times. My size and dimensions could very well be the problem, though the side seam gussets on my Mercers are most definitely higher than BB and Press, for what that is worth. I probably will see if they can lower them on a future order, though I am trying to pare down my shirt collection right now!

 

If you are patient, Mercer shirts do pop up on eBay from time to time. I got a blue oxford last week that looked like it had been worn twice. $60-odd bucks with the shipping. Wore it to church last night, along with a matching oxford blue mask

 

Good advice. Some years ago, I picked up two Mercer oxford cloth shirts on eBay for around $40 or so apiece. Interestingly, these had short point collars, not button downs, and they also had French cuffs. Something of a curiosity, since oxford cloth is rarely used for a more formal shirt -- so I couldn't resist!

 

Speaking of eBay Mercer curiosities, one of our more substantial brethren might want to jump on this contrast collar ocbd

https://www.ebay.com/itm/185230658934?hash=item2b209b8d76:g:hdoAAOSwPF9hk9Q~

 

I am not sure why no one bring this up - the shape of the collar is as important as it's length, the classic OCBD's collar should be pointy enough to form the proper roll. Too many European and Asian makers get this wrong and end up making a button downed spread collar shirt.

 

The OCBD is probably the most versatile and timeless piece you can own. Now a true classic, it evolved from the Polo Player's uniform to a preppy Ivy League phase, before eventually cementing its place as a true staple in any wardrobe.

 

How big do you think the rock is we're living under? Tell us something we don't know.