[gdc]

Firstly, I'd just like to say how much I have enjoyed reading the forum prior to this, my first post!

A problem I have is in finding shirts (for general office wear) that are 'fitted'. Now I am sure that my preference is for a more modern slimmer cut than some of a more traditional ilk would prefer, but my experience of buying shirts based on the simple metric of my collar size and sleeve length is that the shirt body is copiously ill-fitting to my tastes. I would add that I would not consider myself to be in any way of a strange size/shape (Collar 15.5; Chest 41"; Waist 33).

I have seen some 'slim fit' shirts in the big name Jermyn St shops in London, but invariably these are in rather unfortunate colours and patterns, nothing like the fairly conservative twills, herring bones etc that I could/would wear to the office.

So - my question is: In the absence of bespoke, does anywhere in London sell slim fitting shirts of Jermyn Street price/quality that are not in garish colours?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[Pipps]

You think you have a problem with your dimensions?
How does 5'10", 15" collar, 36" chest, 29" waist grab you?

The reason for so much garish colouring is the shirtmakers/manufacturers expect slimmer shirts to be worn in a 'suit with no tie' ensemble, typically more popular with those of us who actually care for our shirts to not fit like tents.

You can find such slim shirts in subtle and plain twills. I've seen various online retailers. PM me if you'd like some links.

As for looking in London, I am intending on a similar expedition myself, very soon.

 

[Maggio]

I would recommend the Brooks Brothers slim fit dress shirts. I love the way they fit. And, of course, the pattersns are conservative. perfect for your office.

 

[Pipps]

Then you have clearly not worn many slim fitting shirts, my friend.

Brooks Brother's slim fit shirts are a joke. They are still like tents.

Try a proper European fitted shirt. The difference is huge.

 

[Buffalo]

Then you have clearly not worn many slim fitting shirts, my friend.

Brooks Brother's slim fit shirts are a joke. They are still like tents.

Try a proper European fitted shirt. The difference is huge.

I don't agree that the BBs slim fits are that huge compared to others, on Jermyn Street, which GDC originally spoke about. Both my boys wear the BBs slim fits and they look good, not baggy. They are 32 and 30 waist fellows.

 

[Mattdeckard]

The Brooks Brothers slim fit shirts fit about the same sizewise as my regular Charles Tyrwhitt shirts.

 

[Trenditional]

MTM!

With the Internet, prices for decent MTM's are definitely reasonable.

 

[kitonbrioni]

It really does sound like any rtw is going to disappoint you. Save your pence up and go bespoke.

 

[Edouard]

If it helps I've just ordered a MTM shirt from Baron Boutique, on a recommendation from DougNZ:
https://www.baronboutique.com/mensshirts.htm
It was their Swiss Cotton shirt, snug fitting, $52 (£30 at current rates!!), white twill.
They said it should arrive by the 1st of September (2 weeks delivery), and considering noone else on this forum has gone for BB shirts (someone went for his suits) I might as well post pictures for the knowledge of members!
I have the same problem as you - 16" neck (well that's the only size that doesn't strangle me), 38" chest. My CT 16" white twill reminds me of a parachute - I still wear it because it's a nice shirt when you have a suit to hide the baggyness...
Also BB has amazing customer service - Raj has been very polite and helpful with me.

Also I have heard many members recommend Jantzen tailors as the ultimate internet MTM, as well as being slightly cheaper than BB, it's quite good quality. Although they do take 8 weeks and it can be a pain to get through to them.
https://www.jantzentailor.com/
Personally I find their website a total nightmare to get through though.

 

[DougNZ]

Don't forget a report when it arrives, Edouard.

And a photo :devil:

 

[Pipps]

excellent :icon_smile:

well i'm about to pull the trigger on one of these



just haven't had time yet to choose the clot

i shall also feedback when it arrives :icon_smile_wink:

 

[tzedekh]

excellent :icon_smile:

well i'm about to pull the trigger on one of these

just haven't had time yet to choose the clot

i shall also feedback when it arrives :icon_smile_wink:

I had considered TailorShirts, so in May I e-mailed a number of questions to their customer service department regarding the company's MTM shirts. The questions and their responses:

1. Do you use split yokes?
   No
2. Do you use single-needle stitching on all seams?
   Probably, except for the overlock seams
3. Are the yokes top stitched?
   Dont know, please elaborate
4. Are the side and sleeve seams flat-felled?
   They are 5-needle overlock seams
5. Are collars and cuffs fused, and if so, are there grades of fusing material weight (such as light, medium, and heavy)? Can shirts be ordered without fusing?
   Yes, they are. The material is medium stiff and we do not offer without
6. Are collar stays removable?
   No, not at this moment, but in the future they will be
7. How many stitches per inch are used on seams?
   Around 17
8. Do sleeve gauntlets (plackets) have buttons?
   This is selectable in the shirt designer
9. How are placketless shirt fronts done? Is the raw edge turned under and folded, and then the shirt front stitched about a quarter of an inch from the edge to seal the raw edge?
   Just folded, not stitched
10. Is the $9 shipping fee per shirt or per order (regardless of the number of items)?
    Yes, $9 per order, regardless of number of items

Most of the questions were aimed at getting some idea about the construction of their shirts. While these are by no means an exhaustive set of criteria by which to judge the quality of a shirt (fabric quality is obviously important), some of the answers are a little troubling, at least to me.

 

[DaveInPhilly]

I agree that Brooks uses "slim" very liberally. I find their slim fit shirts to still be rather huge. I have given up trying to find a good fit off the rack. In fact the only shirt that really fits to my liking off the rack is from Express...and well…that shirt leaves a little to be desired.

MTM and Bespoke are out of my budget, so I have taken to shopping at stores like Nordstrom Rack and Marshals, where you can often find decent shirts (HF, Ike Behar, Joseph Abboud, that sort of thing) for about $20 on sale, and I take those shirt to my tailor and have her taper them for $10 a shirt. All in all a decent shirt for a decent price.

 

[NinthCircle]

Slim cut shirts

Of the sport shirts that I own, Charles Tyrwhitt, RLPL, Dolce & Gabbana, and Coast fit pretty snugly. Etro is okay, and Borelli shirts are biggish.
I have a 15 1/2 inch neck, and it is frustrating to end up with a shirt in that size with a balloon-like fit. The implication is that there are a lot of pencil-necked fat guys out there.
I recall that back in the 70's Italian shorts were cut extremely snug, e.g. Pancaldi, Marrin, Dina Robin, Ingram, etc.

 

[Untilted]

Custom shirting is the way to go.

 

[Mr. Golem]

I have a quick question, is this the Sean Connery turn back cuff?

 

[petro]

...
[*]Are collar stays removable?
No, not at this moment, but in the future they will be
...
Most of the questions were aimed at getting some idea about the construction of their shirts. While these are by no means an exhaustive set of criteria by which to judge the quality of a shirt (fabric quality is obviously important), some of the answers are a little troubling, at least to me.

Yeah. I'll say.

 

[Drag0n]

I have a quick question, is this the Sean Connery turn back cuff?

Hard to tell...but looks like a french cuff cut at a slight angle...not a Sean Connery turn back cuff.

 

[comrade]

Tapering?

Some years ago when I was slimmer and wore 16/34 shirts
and had a 34'' waist and preferred a slim fitting shirt,
I'd buy full cut shirts from T&A, Hawes & Curtis,
Mason& Brown (no longer in business) etc, and have them
tapered. I bought full cut shirts because they were more
conservative and to my taste than slim fitting RTW shirts.
The price for tapering from a decent tailor or seamstress
was relatively trivial compared to the shirts, which were
often purchased at end-of season sale prices. Alas,
I no longer have this problem: Relatively full-cut shirts
from H&K, Harvie and Hudson, T&A and ( god forbid)
Pink fit just fine.

 

[mumbojumbo]

I have a quick question, is this the Sean Connery turn back cuff?

No. Connery Cuff is a button cuff.