[Sir Kurokodairu]

Greetings All,

I'm looking for some advice on whether or not to have a cinch made on a custom three-piece suit. There is some opinion in this AAAC thread "Suit Vest", but not much. Although I'm not firm, I'm leaning towards having one made with a cinch, as it seems good to have the flexibility to loosen/tighten the vest during daily waist fluctuations (before/after meals), and medium-term waist fluctuations (weight gain/loss).

In general, my waist stays quite consistent throughout the day as I almost never eat large meals, and my weight stays consistent in the long term.

1. Since a vest should be very fitted (while without pulling at the buttons and back), as advised by many online guides and forum members, is the flexibility offered by the cinch highly preferred based on your experience?
2. Does anyone prefer a cinch-less vest? Why?
3. Assuming I go with a cinch, when I go in for a fitting, presumably the cinch should be tightened to a certain extent, so that the final product would have room to be loosened. Otherwise, that vest would only be able to tighten. If this assumption is correct, how much should I tighten the cinch during the fitting?

Thanks

 

[eagle2250]

Keep in mind it is a vest you are buying, and not a corset. Many seem to prefer wearing their clothes more closely fitted than do I, but a vest/waistcoat was never intended to be fitted as a second skin. Leave a bit of air space...it will prove a lot more comfortable.

 

[Mr. B. Scott Robinson]

Yes, a cinch, or whatever the technical term is for the adjustable strap in the rear of a waistcoat is a bit of essential kit in my view.

Not entirely certain how a waistcoat functions well without one.

Cheers,

BSR

 

[Matt S]

Keep in mind it is a vest you are buying, and not a corset. Many seem to prefer wearing their clothes more closely fitted than do I, but a vest/waistcoat was never intended to be fitted as a second skin. Leave a bit of air space...it will prove a lot more comfortable.

The vest was traditionally intended to be fitted very closely. See Gary Cooper:

The strap in the back that ensures it fits closely is necessary for a flattering look. A vest that sticks out from the body is quite unflattering. It should be loose enough that you can breathe comfortably and sit down comfortably. Any more than that is not going to look good.

 

[Oldsarge]

^^ This is in keeping with the (very) old concept that the shirt beneath it was an undergarment and the waistcoat was the outer garment to be worn when indoors--when the weather was warm enough, of course. Pre-central heating days, don'tcherknow.

 

[Flanderian]

Had I asked my tailor to make the vest of a 3-piece with a cinch, I would have offended him. He would have sworn at me under his breath in Italian. He was a proud tailor. He made clothes that fit! What do you need a cinch for!?

But, had I the temerity, I might have. Clothes that fit perfectly, only do so while you are perfectly fit. An inch or so, here or there, and it's back for alterations, providing there is any cloth that can be let out, which on a vest will be minimal.

But a vest that is seriously too large will look poorly when cinched. It destroys the line, and makes folds and puckers. Depending upon your size (Allowances vary depending upon proportion.) having your tailor add maybe 1" to 1 1/2", with a cinch might accomplish what you're looking for. And frankly, peasant that I am, I think it looks pretty dandy when viewed from the back if not wearing your jacket.

If you have it made with a cinch, at the try-on, first try it with the belt closed without any tension, then tighten it an inch. It should look good either way if it fits right.

 

[London380sl]

It's been years since I had a made to measure suit made but my vests were without cinches. I've always thought it was that way. You are getting a vest made to measure and a cinch is not required.

Cinches were on RTW vest to allow minor fit adjustments without the expense and bother of tailoring.

Just my opinion but, for looks, a cinched vest doesn't hold a candle to a MTM vest when viewed from the backside.

 

[Matt S]

It's been years since I had a made to measure suit made but my vests were without cinches. I've always thought it was that way. You are getting a vest made to measure and a cinch is not required.

Cinches were on RTW vest to allow minor fit adjustments without the expense and bother of tailoring.

Just my opinion but, for looks, a cinched vest doesn't hold a candle to a MTM vest when viewed from the backside.

It's not just a RTW thing. They are standard on British bespoke suits, just like trouser adjusters are. People fluctuate in size.

 

[Sir Kurokodairu]

I suppose one way to word the above advices, going by the popular preference that the vest should be very fitted given comfortable breathing and sitting, is that the back adjuster would ensure the vest looks best from the front at any instance of the wearer's weight range, at the expense of looking worse with a fastened back when the jacket is off, viewed from the side and back. And if the back adjuster is viewed as attractive by itself, then even that drawback would be a plus.

 

[Tim Correll]

It's not just a RTW thing. They are standard on British bespoke suits, just like trouser adjusters are. People fluctuate in size.

I know it probably doesn't make sense, but would British bespoke tailors make trousers without side adjusters or a vest without the cinch in the back if the client insisted?

I distinctly remember you telling me that British bespoke tailors don't make dresses, skirts and trousers that sit on the hip rather than the waist even at the insistence of the client as they feel it takes pride away from their hard work. Does this also apply to trousers without side adjusters and vests without cinches?

 

[Matt S]

I know it probably doesn't make sense, but would British bespoke tailors make trousers without side adjusters or a vest without the cinch in the back if the client insisted?

I distinctly remember you telling me that British bespoke tailors don't make dresses, skirts and trousers that sit on the hip rather than the waist even at the insistence of the client as they feel it takes pride away from their hard work. Does this also apply to trousers without side adjusters and vests without cinches?

British tailors always provide some method of keeping up trousers, whether it's buttons for braces, side-adjusters or belt loops. Some tailors provide adjustments hidden inside the trousers.

I did not tell you the latter. I have seen a number of examples of low-rise trousers from British bespoke tailors, though there are many who would refuse to make such.

 

[Tim Correll]

British tailors always provide some method of keeping up trousers, whether it's buttons for braces, side-adjusters or belt loops. Some tailors provide adjustments hidden inside the trousers.

I did not tell you the latter. I have seen a number of examples of low-rise trousers from British bespoke tailors, though there are many who would refuse to make such.

Would British tailors make vests without cinches? Or, would they always only make them with cinches?

 

[Matt S]

Would British tailors make vests without cinches? Or, would they always only make them with cinches?

Some might do it, but a cinch is standard.