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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
All,

I want to ask for your assistance in a couple of areas.

(1) Are there any quality, custom tailors in the Dallas area (similar to Lim in L.A.)? I'm about 6'1", 200 lbs with a 33 inch waist, and do have a fairly athletic build with broad shoulders. I often experience several fitting issues as I wear 46L, which means the jacket usually needs to be significantly taken-in and the pants need to be re-cut. The style I prefer is a bit more on the fitted end of the scale. So, as I continue walking down the sartorial path, I think a reasonably priced custom suit may be a better solution.

(2) To date, the suits/coats I preferred are from Isaia and Belvest; however, while many of my suits fit fine, after tailoring, a couple of them still have too much materials on the front two panels of the jacket. My tailor said there isn't much she can do about it in that she's nipped the chest and the waist as much as she could. And, the button holes are in the way for any type of lapel trimming. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

Ken
 

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Cornered pocket

There is a point beyond which your tailor is right to say that she cannot go: When the coat pockets start disappearing into the side seams. So, I hereby use this as a segue into my first enunciation of this concept:

Let's do away with front suit and sport coat pockets!


Shocking? Not really. What earthly use are they? Does anyone who cares how their coats hang actually put anything of significance in those pockets? That's what inside pockets are for. Some have posted the admission that they don't even bother to un-baste them, as they don't use them and they don't like them to sag over time.

Fitting such figures as has OP would cease to be such a problem, in my opinion. While it is too much to expect manufacturers or tailors to pass on any savings in labor cost foregoing outside pockets would entail, I believe they are a fondly cherished anachronism, not unlike a boutonniere loop, but inescapably more visible. Outside pockets, and I include the breast pocket whose sole purpose is to contain the colorful but faintly foppish "pocket square" are useless in any practical way. Along with the even more useless sleeve cuff buttons and lapel buttonhole (that has no corresponding button), they are charming irrelevancies. And, please, making them into "working" buttons and buttonholes does not obviate that irrelevancy. Working or not, they stand in the way of properly fitting sleeves.

Ahhh, I can hear it now, a "disturbance in the force" caused by the horror, the dismay, the ruptured sensibilities of all and sundry, including the tailors that lose their eyesight to making those completely useless details that "make the difference between a well-made suit" and schlock. Spare me!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the input. Unfortunately, the removal of pockets or pocket flaps won't help in that the extra fabric appears to be in the chest area, toward the bottom of the lapel. I asked my tailor again about it, but she said the extra fabric there is for people with more generous girth. She moved the buttons away from the edge a bit, so when I button the jacket, the cut is more fitted. Nonetheless, I was hoping to find a more eloquent way to tailor the jacket. Oh well.

Thanks again.
 
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