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Trouser length and turnups

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Pant length and cuffs :icon_smile_wink:


Two questions:

1. In many of the photos here I still see a lot of turnups on trousers. Is that still common in the States?
They died out over here in Sweden and the UK many years ago.

2. On the Continent and in Sweden they wear their trousers too long in comparison to the UK.

Do you over there still wear what I consider to be the correct length of trousers i.e. straight, no break, and ending on the shoe, not two inches lower resting on the top of the heel a la Continental/Swedish style?

No matter how fashionable or supposedly correct the longer trouser length is considered by tailors and designers I think it looks awful,as if the person has bought the wrong size trousers.

I'm not saying that 4 inches of sock should be bared when seated but by the same token neither should there be four inches of trouser material crumpled up at the bottom of the leg when standing.
 

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OVERALL it may be more common in the States. Most of the guys I see here in dress trousers or chinos are young (University of Florida in my town) and follow what's fashionable -- plain front, plain hem. A great deal of them wear their trousers too long or sag them, the latter of which exacerbates it. The ones who don't usually have some break. I've rarely if ever seen anyone with no break.
 

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Some of us 'colonial gents' can't make up our mind and end up with a mixed bag of hemmed and cuffed trousers. In my case it's probably close to an 80/20 mix (80% hemmed and 20% cuffed). I try to have the hem or cuff of my trousers just brushing the top of my shoes when I stand, with the heel slightly lower, extending close to the base of my heel. ;)
 

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All of my suits have cuffs/turnups, as do most of my odd trousers. I do have a couple of pairs of flat front chinos that have no cuff. Generally, I find a lack of cuffs only on the most casual (chinos) or the most formal (dinner suit/tuxedo) trousers.

As for length, I normally hear it referred to as no break (shortest), half break, or full break (longest). Again, the no break is generally for the most casual and the most formal of trousers. Most of my suits go with the half break.

Most of the time, when I see really excessive trouser length, it is on men who bought their pants off of the rack and never bothered to take them in for a proper fitting.
 

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I didn't like cuffs (or pleats) at first when I was getting into dressing well, but I was quickly turned on to them when got into styles from the past. A lot of young guys from Ivy League schools wearing cuffed flat fronts in the '50s and '60s and looking good.
 

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Many many years ago when I was in the rag trade, when we altered trousers for customers with or without turnups, we always added a slight bias towards the back but only starting from the middle of the leg by the seam.

This meant the trouser was just on the shoe at the front but also came just the little lower at the back, we are only talking about a very small amount, but it can make all the difference.

Agreed, trousers should not be crumpled or worn at half mast, but should fit properly like other items of clothing.



Bob

PS Also think Turnups are correct but can understand why some are scared of them.
 

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Regarding trouser length, what's with the current "high-water" or Pee Wee Herman look?
It seems like all the men's fashion magazines, blogs, etc. show guys with pants barely
hitting their ankles. IMHO, I think this is a ridiculous look. On the other hand, I think
a huge puddle of fabric at the shoes is equally silly. My apologies if this subject has
been previously addressed.
 

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Many many years ago when I was in the rag trade, when we altered trousers for customers with or without turnups, we always added a slight bias towards the back but only starting from the middle of the leg by the seam.

This meant the trouser was just on the shoe at the front but also came just the little lower at the back, we are only talking about a very small amount, but it can make all the difference.
Was this referred to as a "military hem" at some point?
 

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Was this referred to as a "military hem" at some point?
Not sure what it's called, but my last two tailors (both older italian men) did this. The back was longer, starting at the middle of the leg by the seam. I, personally, like a full break on the front, with the rear anywhere between 1/2" from the ground to 1/2" over the top of my heel. This also varies based on where the waist sits in relation to my current weight. My first pair of MTM trousers hang just off the ground with a very full break on the front, and that is my preferred style.

The slightly extra length in the rear made it so I had a full break in the front, but wasn't sloppy, and could have the rear at the proper length (no break of course). This is, for me, how all pants should be hemmed.

And yes, turnups with pleats, no cuff without.
 

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All cuffs, all the time. Hell, I've got a pair of shorts with cuffs.

I don't think that trousers that are too short look any better than those that are too long. I like a traditional amount of break on mine.
 

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Not sure what it's called, but my last two tailors (both older italian men) did this. The back was longer, starting at the middle of the leg by the seam. I, personally, like a full break on the front, with the rear anywhere between 1/2" from the ground to 1/2" over the top of my heel. This also varies based on where the waist sits in relation to my current weight. My first pair of MTM trousers hang just off the ground with a very full break on the front, and that is my preferred style.

The slightly extra length in the rear made it so I had a full break in the front, but wasn't sloppy, and could have the rear at the proper length (no break of course). This is, for me, how all pants should be hemmed.

And yes, turnups with pleats, no cuff without.
My tailor calls this a "fishtail" hem.
 

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As I buy trouwsers to fit me, I do not roll. Well...that is not unless in wading into the ocean or lake...I do have cuffed trousers with a no to medium break. For the uncuffed trousers, the length varies between a no break and a medium break. I can't stand to see trousers dragging on the ground...just me.
 
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