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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My friend recently took delivery of some Trickers cap-toe bals (sorry, I don't know the name of the model - FWIW he said they were about $275). He called me this morning and told me that he is concerned they aren't Goodyear welted; he indicated that the soles are not visibly channeled.

I know very little about shoe construction; are his concerns warranted? What am I missing here? Could these shoes be made with some other acceptable construction method that doesn't typically require channeling on the soles?

I appreciate your insights.
 

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Dont' know model but strongly suspect they are "closed channeled " Goodyear Welted as a lot of Trickers are - ie y ou cannot see the channel because a flap of leather has been cut around the edge of the sole then sole stiched onto welt then flap glued down over channel.

Its a sign of craftsmanship and a nice touch - but it does not add anything to the life of the shoe as such
 

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Dont' know model but strongly suspect they are "closed channeled " Goodyear Welted as a lot of Trickers are - ie y ou cannot see the channel because a flap of leather has been cut around the edge of the sole then sole stiched onto welt then flap glued down over channel.

Its a sign of craftsmanship and a nice touch - but it does not add anything to the life of the shoe as such
Years back we would groove the sole much deeper, then wet it and hammer the groove to close it up and this would protect the stitching.
Now the groove is so shallow you are soon wearing down to the stitching,
With the closed channel and flap glued down, this gives much more protection to the stitches and therefore longer wear should be achieved
and as leather man say's is a sign of craftsmanship and nice to see a manufacturer using this method.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Many thanks!

I had actually suspected something of this nature but simply wasn't sure.

This is a great idea - the stitching on all of my channeled sole shoes does indeed wear down quickly. Keep up the good work!
 
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