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Trad and Effort

19128 Views 118 Replies 37 Participants Last post by  heimskringla
Do forgive me if this has been beaten to death already. However, in following this forum for the last few months, I have come to a conclusion about what attracted me to the 'trad' style in the first place.I enjoy the apparent effortlessness involved--except most of you put quite a lot of effort in to dressing in a particular way.

Much like GHWB I grew up in a family in which it was normal for men to dress in this particular style; plain front trousers, a properly fitting jacket, and a presentable pair of shoes were de rigeur for the men in my family, even after we ceased to have an abundance of wealth. My grandfather certainly had a favorite haberdashery or two, but I never recall him fussing over whether or not his jacket had darts or a rolled lapel. He always insisted that a gentlemen must never try too hard to dress well, because in doing so he was likely to appear pretentious. There's a certain austerity in that statement, I suppose, but that particular ideal is one that many older "WASP" families cherish deeply.

I suppose that what I'm saying is that I find it very difficult to fuss quite this much about what I'm wearing; I prefer a sack cut when I have the opportunity to wear one, but I wore a darted 2b charcoal suit last Friday evening (to a business casual dress dinner) and received a number of compliments. I also don't feel awkward when appearing without a jacket on a day-to-day basis; I enjoy them, but if it's too warm and humid, I'll dispense with the jacket. I wear a tie when the mood strikes, but I'm more comfortable in the heat with the first button of my collar undone.

I wear an OCBD and plain front khaki trousers on a daily basis. They look good; I can meet with students and administrators informally dressed this way. I don't have to spend too much time considering what I'll wear in the morning; I own 14 OCBD shirts, one polo, a pair of loafers, a pair of slip on Sketcher's, and a pair of captoe oxfords. I rarely experience a moment of indecision when the available choices are light blue, French blue, white, ecru, and pink.
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I just read Topsider's post above mine and I agree with all of his comments.

Before I came to Andy's I might not have known I dressed in a Trad style, but both I and the shop where I buy tailored clothing knew I dressed in a Traditional style. Same thing I think - just a handy abbreviation.

3/2 sacks have been around for decades.

OCBD is another handy abbreviation and I have no idea about it origin, but the garment with a box pleat predates me and I have been around a pretty long time.
I'm quite pleased people have managed to take something positive from a thread fueled by multiple gin & tonics :) ...
Gin or no, you write elegantly...and with the seasoned voice of an older man. Yet I gather from your posts that you're a student in your twenties or thirties.
All I can say is, :icon_hailthee:!
I think a good portion of what is "trad" is mythology invented by members of this board.
I disagree. Seems to me that "trad" is a specific style inspired by the Ivy League look of the 50's and 60's and the preppy look of the 80's. Few people around here, from what I've read, actually want to claim that everybody in the 50's and 60's exclusively wore 3/2 sack jackets, flat-front pants with big ol' cuffs, oxford cloth button-downs, penny loafers, etc. Most, rather, agree that the above were commonly worn at that time, and that particular style is the basis of this forum.

No, "trad" isn't just a re-branding of Ivy campus fashion from mid-century, but a rather narrowly defined subset of that fashion. Therefore, no mythology.
I think a good portion of what is "trad" is mythology invented by members of this board. Not trying to knock you Louche, but these ideas you have about how East Coast establishment guys dressed in the 1950s...are these personal observations that you made in the 1950s? If not, what's the source?

Speaking only for myself, I never even heard of a 3/2 sack until I came on this board. "OCBD" is a term that I don't think existed before AAAC, and if you look at old pictures of, for example, the Kennedys, they wear plenty of clothes during what many here would say was the "golden age" of trad that don't fit into what folks here would define as trad.
You make a good point Porter. I guess I get sucked into some delusions about "the way it were" from reading these boards. I have no actual basis for comparison as to what East Coasties wore inthe '50s other than here-say (both pre- and post-AAAC/T). I do know that my granfather went to Penn Law around 1950 and he dresses quite trad by the definitions of this board (not spot on bu damn close); the pictures I've seen from him through the years indicate that he and his friends maintained this style as well. He's actually a perfect example of someone who seems to nail it everytime - almost as if by accident.
The main effort in dressing trad is in acquiring a trad wardrobe that fits. Earning the money, selecting clothing from J. Press, Andover Shop, O'Connell's, et. al., having the clothing fitted correctly, and disposing of all non-trad items are the necessary but difficult steps. Once you've done this, everything you don is trad. You're a trad. Now it's effortless.

There are several lists of trad wardrobes on this board. For ten or fifteen thousand dollars, a guy could outfit himself for five years using these lists. He'd be done.

I'm betting more than a few board members who've disappeared over the years have pretty much accomplished the hard part and have moved on to other pursuits...blogging, fly fishing, hunting, sailing, the perfect martini.

For the rest of us, still building the wardrobe or obsessed with improving it minutely, we have this board.
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No, "trad" isn't just a re-branding of Ivy campus fashion from mid-century, but a rather narrowly defined subset of that fashion. Therefore, no mythology.
If it's such a narrowly defined subset, how come people still argue about what it is after several years of AAAC and several thousands of posts?

Are Timex watches trad? How about Timex watches on grosgrain straps? Alden 405s? Needlepoint belts? Pink oxford shirts? If so, based on what?

Further, what about 1950s "trad" fashions that look goofy now? For example, are there any among us wearing pants that are so short they don't even tough the top of the shoe? That's what THEY wore, so far as I can tell.

This is all based on mythology, and that mythology is fueled by the collective creativity of folks on AAAC. I suspect not more than 5% of this board is old enough to remember details of what people wore in the 1950s, and I suspect less than 2% went to an Ivy League school (and I'm guessing 0.1% went to an Ivy League school IN the '50s). The "inspiration" for the trad look is an image that I suspect no one here has experienced. Therefore, folks create a mythology to fill the gaps.
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If it's such a narrowly defined subset, how come people still argue about what it is after several years of AAAC and several thousands of posts?

Are Timex watches trad? How about Timex watches on grosgrain straps? Alden 405s? Needlepoint belts? Pink oxford shirts? If so, based on what?
"Narrowly defined" relative to the whole of 1950's and 1960's style. That is, "trad" isn't 1950's and 1960's style, but inspired in large part by certain aspects of that style. There seems to me to be little arguing here among the more established members. Those questions, for example, almost exclusively come from newer members who are just discovering the style. Further, from the threads I've read in which people reveal such things, very few members dress exclusively trad, opting instead to pick those things that work for them and disregarding those things that don't. So these debates over, for example, whether pink oxfords are trad are not between "trad1" and "trad2" but between "trad1" and "semi-trad1" and "kinda-sorta-trad1" and so forth.

Further, what about 1950s "trad" fashions that look goofy now? For example, are there any among us wearing pants that are so short they don't even tough the top of the shoe? That's what THEY wore, so far as I can tell.
That's the sort of question that sparks useful discourse around here, in my opinion. Much more interesting than "can I wear a Timex and still label myself 'trad'?" nd that may be an area where it's not exactly trad, but it's not necessarily anti-trad either. Again, I'd say the "trad" style is drawn in part from 1950's style, but not all of 1950's style. That particular decade wasn't immune from fashion excess, and it's only fitting that trads should reject certain aspects of the 1950's style, specifically those aspects that don't fit into a 'classic' (a relative term, I know) style.
Are high-water pants trad? Perhaps not. Can they work in a trad wardrobe? AldenPyle seems to make it work.

This is all based on mythology
It's not based on mythology, because people actually wore these things.
I agree that there is a lot of mythology floating around here. Not everyone in the 1950's wore exclusively 3/2 sack suits with flat-front trousers and 1 3/4" cuffs, paired only with white or blue OCBDs and a Brooks repp or foulard tie. But a lot of people did. When we try to equate "trad" with 1950's Ivy League style, we're in error. But when we acknowledge that trad is drawn from 1950's style, without being entirely dependent on it, I think we're correct. In short, trad is what it is.
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That is, "trad" isn't 1950's and 1960's style, but inspired in large part by certain aspects of that style. There seems to me to be little arguing here among the more established members...When we try to equate "trad" with 1950's Ivy League style, we're in error. But when we acknowledge that trad is drawn from 1950's style, without being entirely dependent on it, I think we're correct. In short, trad is what it is.
Respectfully, I think this is incorrect. The first statement that I take issue with - that "more established members say" is what I believe logicians call an appeal to false authority. Illogic like this is what makes the myth exist. Being a "more established" member of this board is meaningless without some bona fides. Find me a member of this board that went to Cornell in 1958 and who was into fashion then, as he is now, and I'll listen to him about the way things used to be and ought to be now. By contrast, show me a 20-something from the midwest who went to a state school who has read a bunch of posts on this website and has access to his dad's credit card to buy at Brooks Brothers and I'm not going to give deference to his statements about the way things "used to be."

Second, I agree "trad" is drawn from the 50's style...but that's not that helpful when you try to say what trad "is." I'd have a hard time thinking of any piece of clothing in our society that I couldn't somehow analogize to something available in the 1950s.

In other words - to my thinking - the only thing that bridges that gap is an invented mythology.
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It's not based on mythology, because people actually wore these things.
Maybe we're defining mythology differently. I'm defining it as adding a significance that doesn't inherently exist. The GHWB attire thread is a perfect analogy: some people say he's a perfect trad because there are old pictures of him wearing OCBDs and 3/2 sacks. OK, fair enough. Now, for every one of those pictures, I can find you 10 in which he's wearing a point collar, pleated pants or a darted blazer. What's mythological is that wearing a 3/2 or OCBD has some special cultural significance or that the 1950s wearers of them really cared either way whether their jacket was darted.
I was a 1950 wearer of what we now call Trad (I think) and at the time I did not know there was such a thing as a darted jacket - perhaps I was just not very observant.

I graduated from UCLA which is probably as far from an Ivy League school as one can be.
Respectfully, I think this is incorrect. The first statement that I take issue with - that "more established members say" is what I believe logicians call an appeal to false authority. Illogic like this is what makes the myth exist. Being a "more established" member of this board is meaningless without some bona fides. Find me a member of this board that went to Cornell in 1958 and who was into fashion then, as he is now, and I'll listen to him about the way things used to be and ought to be now. By contrast, show me a 20-something from the midwest who went to a state school who has read a bunch of posts on this website and has access to his dad's credit card to buy at Brooks Brothers and I'm not going to give deference to his statements about the way things "used to be."
I should have qualified my "more established" designation. But first, let me go back to what I see as the definition of trad, from my time reading this forum. Some trace the usage of "trad" back only to 2004, with the creation of this forum on Ask Andy, while others refer to Alan Flusser using the term (though I'm not sure exactly where) as well as its use in Japan, apparently as a reference to a certain traditionally American style. Whenever the term was created, it seems the meaning is essentially the same: something of a shorthand for the traditional natural shoulder Ivy League look, though more narrowly defined.

"Trad" is not the same as "classic American style," though it fits somewhere on the continuum. "Classic American style" certainly allows for darted jackets, uncuffed pleated trousers, etc. A simple charcoal business suit with a darted jacket and pleated trousers is no less classic American than its cousin with a 3/2 sack jacket and flat-front trousers. But, the latter is defined as "trad" while the former is not. To be honest I'm not certain why, but that's how it's defined, around here at least. And I think that's the point of this forum: to allow a space for members to discuss the ins and outs of a relatively small niche style.

So, back to my appeal to the "more established members." By that I didn't mean those with the most posts, or those who are oldest, but simply those who know the trad style. They don't have to know all the ins and outs of what people wore in the 50's, because that's not what trad is. It is, again, based in part on what was worn in the 50's (and while you almost certainly could connect anything available today to that decade, it was the heyday of the Ivy League look in America and so is especially relevant here), but you can look all around the internet and find photographs of men in sack jackets and penny loafers and madras shorts and so on from those years, so there is, to my mind, no need to have lived it to know how the style should be now.

Anyway, I think we're both approaching this from two different points, so it seems we're just going around in circles. My basic point, I think, though perhaps I have misplaced it somewhere along the line, is this: "trad" is a sort of composite style that has cherrypicked some stuff from the 50's, some from the 60's, probably some from the late 40's, some from the 80's, and will probably continue to do so as 'new' things arise. Or maybe not. Maybe "trad" is so narrowly defined that very little gets in, while considerably much is left in the close-but-no-cigar category. Whatever the case, I'm tired of thinking about it for the moment.

At the end of the day, I'd say that I favor a classic American style. Some of it's trad, some of it isn't. (I don't mind darts, for example, so long as a jacket has a natural shoulder.) Or maybe the definition of "trad" does allow for the darted natural shoulder jacket and my understanding of "trad" is wrong. Either way, I wear what I like, and it works.
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.....a distinctly American take on non-fashion. By that I mean (1) clothes with American heritage if not roots, (2) made in the US, and (3) not subject to the vagaries and trends that define fashion...simplicity of combining elements (I don't choose my clothes in the dark, but I could without fear that they won't match) and not worrying about what is in and out of style.

I am for the reasons cited self-aware about my clothing, but not to the point (I hope) of excessive self-consciousness once I'm out the door.

Oh yeah, and my feet feel better since I started wearing quality American shoes.
I agree with all of the above. Well stated!
seriously guys, just wear whatever looks good on you...

jpress trousers fit me like crap, so i dont buy pants from them and get them from corneliani and incotex, two italian brands...

meanwhile i like their shaggy dogs...

and darted jackets really dont look bad...same with forward pleated trousers.
I don't get this idea that Made in the USA is a requirement of it being trad? American roots?

I disagree. How about fine sweaters made in Ireland, tweeds from the UK and oilskins from Australia? None of them are American-made or have US roots, yet I suspect people here would say those are quite trad. So...is it really about being "made in the USA?"
I don't get this idea that Made in the USA is a requirement of it being trad? American roots?

I disagree. How about fine sweaters made in Ireland, tweeds from the UK and oilskins from Australia? None of them are American-made or have US roots, yet I suspect people here would say those are quite trad. So...is it really about being "made in the USA?"
True - I guess I'd say - traditional items from their traditional maker/country of origin rather that items made in a country that is totally foreign to such items, even if 'commissioned' from a US or traditional maker.

However, the bulk of regular wear items can be sourced in the US - shirts (BB OCBD), shoes (Alden/AE), suits (Southwick), jackets (Southwick), outerwear (Sterlingwear) ..... and anything sold by O'Connells seems to be true to its traditional country of origin.
I am 100% NOT accusing you of anything, but it seems to me that the distinction between what foreign stuff is OK and what isn't is whether white people make it.

Not a lot of people around here talking about their Peruvian poncho.
seriously guys, just wear whatever looks good on you...
C'mon, Tilt, there wouldn't BE an AAAT if everyone did that....folks read and post here because they like the particular style of clothing that is (most often) discussed here. There are parameters of this style, be it "Trad" or TNSIL or Ivy League, to be learned and understood. Not everyone has to "obey" each and every rule, but there are rules......
ACtually, I hope people like Paper Clip, Untilted and Patrick - my three favorite dressers by a lot on this site - continue to post as much as ever.

One of my daily highlights is seeing what you fellows are wearing every day and getting ideas from it.
I am 100% NOT accusing you of anything, but it seems to me that the distinction between what foreign stuff is OK and what isn't is whether white people make it.

Not a lot of people around here talking about their Peruvian poncho.
I'm certainly not taking any of this personally and am enjoying this exercise in refining my arguments.:icon_smile_wink:

Peruvian pima cotton is good!

I guess there are two parts to this calculation:

I like items that are traditionally made in that country (irish/english/scottish wool sweaters, jackets, socks, english shoes, swiss cotton, watches) etc. and not those made by makers solely to take advantage of a much cheaper cost of labor (a suit/shirt/pair of shoes made in China by an "American" brand).

However, just because an item is made in its country of origin (peruvian poncho, Italian skinny suits or italian thin soled pointy black shoes) doesn't make it traditional in the style that is discussed on this board.

I guess I'm saying, I like items in the traditional american style (even though they may not be made in this country) that are made in their traditional countries of origin.
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I'm not concerned with the ethnic heritage of the people who make the clothes I buy. I just tend to prefer that my stuff is "made in USA".

I am 100% NOT accusing you of anything, but it seems to me that the distinction between what foreign stuff is OK and what isn't is whether white people make it.

Not a lot of people around here talking about their Peruvian poncho.
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