[browning73]

So what do you think?

Are we talking about mammoths like Kiton, or a small shop most haven't heard of?

I am ignorant of the subject, but would love to hear everybody else's opinions :icon_smile:

-W.

(I know it is not NYC, but H. Huntsman has to be my favourite)

 

[medwards]

A Past Discussion that Should Be of Some Help...

https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?t=55819

 

[medwards]

I am ignorant of the subject, but would love to hear everybody else's opinions :icon_smile:

Well, if you want the hear EVERYBODY else's opinions, you might want to visit this "definitive" thread.

 

[browning73]

Thanks :icon_smile_big:

 

[Tim Correll]

Just a hunch, but.....

William Fioravanti

Jon Green

Raphael Raffaelli

Leonard Logsdail

Nino Corvato

If not Jon Green, then Vincent Nicolosi (who might have very recently retired according to doccl, FWIW; see doccol OP below titled "Is Vincent Nicolosi retired" posted on Sunday, August 24th, 2008 at 10:07PM or 22:07, as AAAC says)

 

[sam]

AFAIK, Jon Green is not a bespoke tailor. He is more of a clothier who outsources the construction of his bespoke garments. He doesn't sew,cut,stitch or make anything himself. I wouldn't put him in the same category as Logsdail, Raphael and Corvato.

 

[Sator]

Are we talking about mammoths like Kiton?)

Mammoth or white elephant? :icon_smile_big:

 

[Flanderian]

AFAIK, Jon Green is not a bespoke tailor. He is more of a clothier who outsources the construction of his bespoke garments. He doesn't sew,cut,stitch or make anything himself. I wouldn't put him in the same category as Logsdail, Raphael and Corvato.

Don't wish to be a PIA, but while some tailors cut, many don't sew, and don't many bespoke tailors do exactly what you've described? Guess I'm trying to understand what makes him different, unless you're describing an MTM.

 

[Sator]

A tailor who neither cuts nor makes up coats is not strictly a tailor. In that sense, Mariano Rubinacci is no tailor, nor does he know how to cut or make up coats any more than Alan Flusser, for he merely employs tailors to do that work for him.

 

[Tim Correll]

AFAIK, Jon Green is not a bespoke tailor. He is more of a clothier who outsources the construction of his bespoke garments. He doesn't sew,cut,stitch or make anything himself. I wouldn't put him in the same category as Logsdail, Raphael and Corvato.

It's like the old saying goes, you learn something new everyday.

 

[Tim Correll]

A tailor who neither cuts nor makes up coats is not strictly a tailor. In that sense, Mariano Rubinacci is no tailor, nor does he know how to cut or make up coats any more than Alan Flusser, for he merely employs tailors to do that work for him.

That is interesting to know, Sator.

However, all of Rubinacci's bespoke clothing (or at least all of Rubinacci's bespoke tailored clothing) is still far and away more handmade (I believe 98 or 99% handmade overall, but I don't know for sure) than machine made with an extremely small amount of machine work (I believe only 1 or 2% machine made overall, but, again, I don't know for sure). Perhaps iammatt knows for sure?

 

[Tim Correll]

Somewhat off topic, but also.....

I am far (and, I really do mean far) from 100% sure, but I believe that the prices below are the overall starting prices for a bespoke suit from the NY bespoke tailors mentioned below that are of the same caliber as Rubinacci and all of the Savile Row tailors are:

William Fioravanti (NYC): $10,500

Jon Green (NYC): $8,500

Frank Shattuck (originally in NYC but is now located in Cazenovia, NY outside of Syracuse, NY): $7,500

Raphael Raffaelli (NYC): $6,000

Leonard Logsdail (originally on Savile Row in London, England from when he got started sometime in the 1940s to 1991 and in NYC from 1991 to present): $5,500

Nino Corvato (NYC): $5,000

Vincent Nicolosi (NYC; Nicolosi might now be retired): $4,000

Again, I am far (and, again, I really do mean far) from being 100% sure that these are the overall starting prices for bespoke suits from the NY bespoke tailors mentioned above.

Perhaps iammatt and/or other members of AAAC that are the supreme (and supremely indispensable) clothing experts on AAAC and/or SF know for sure (and can tell us) what the overall starting prices for a bespoke suit from all of the NY bespoke tailors (and perhaps their handwork and machinework combinations to boot?; FWIW, iammatt and many other members AAAC-half of which are also members of SF and/or other clothing forums-are even more interested in all clothing makers' and shoe makers' handwork and machine work combinations than I am) mentioned above are?

Also, FWIW, the NY bespoke tailors mentioned above are the only NY bespoke tailors that I know of that are of the same caliber as Rubinacci and all of the Savile Row tailors.