Bought a nice suit and shirt with French cuffs, but the cuffs are appearing unevenly. With the jacket on and my hands outstretched, the left cuff shows excessively, about 3 inches, while the right cuff seems correct, showing maybe 1 inch. Why is this, and what should I do about it? (My hands are outstretched because I am playing the piano.)
goodear
You probably have one arm longer ....
than the other. My right arm is 1/2" longer than the left. I also wear only French cuffs. On all new shirts, I have to have the cuffs altered so that the difference in length is compensated for. Since I wear rtw, I have found that different manufacturers do not precisely make their shirts (all are from Jermyn Street) exactly in my size (16 x 34). So I buy 16 x 35 and have the sleeves shortened to the rquired length. When buying a new suit, I make certain a properly adjusted shirt is worn to the fitting. I wear surgeon's cuffs,and I wish 1/2" of cuff showing while holding my arms at my sides. Even after explaining this to the BB fitter, he still did not measure correctly even though I went through an initial fitting befor sending the jacket out for working button holes. The left arm is correct, and the right arm shows no cuff. The only thing they can do is to replace the suit jacket and we are still arguing about this. Both fitters/alteration people seem to take a
lackadaisical attitudeabout this. They feel I am being too critical, and I feel they should be able to measure, then alter accordingly. If they can't do this, they should replace the jacket when surgeon's cuffs are involved.
than the other. My right arm is 1/2" longer than the left. I also wear only French cuffs. On all new shirts, I have to have the cuffs altered so that the difference in length is compensated for. Since I wear rtw, I have found that different manufacturers do not precisely make their shirts (all are from Jermyn Street) exactly in my size (16 x 34). So I buy 16 x 35 and have the sleeves shortened to the rquired length. When buying a new suit, I make certain a properly adjusted shirt is worn to the fitting. I wear surgeon's cuffs,and I wish 1/2" of cuff showing while holding my arms at my sides. Even after explaining this to the BB fitter, he still did not measure correctly even though I went through an initial fitting befor sending the jacket out for working button holes. The left arm is correct, and the right arm shows no cuff. The only thing they can do is to replace the suit jacket and we are still arguing about this. Both fitters/alteration people seem to take a
lackadaisical attitudeabout this. They feel I am being too critical, and I feel they should be able to measure, then alter accordingly. If they can't do this, they should replace the jacket when surgeon's cuffs are involved.
A lot of my suits and shirts that I buy at Century 21 have this issue. They have different sleeve lengths for each arm sometimes. Probably why they end up at Century, but it works for me as they are considerably cheaper and alterations are necessary on any otr suit.
Exactly!
With men, the dominant arm is about 1/2" longer, because the tendons get stretched out form swinging a tennis racket, etc.
The only solution, is to have the jacket measured during the fitting, so that the distance from the tip of the thumb to the edge of the cuff is exactly the same, on both arms. (Usually about 5 1/4").
Problems:
1.Most guys don't know , or care what the exact measurement is, and leave it up to the fitter. Big mistake.
2.The guy in the alteration department wants to get you out of the door with minimum effort, in most cases. He may measure one sleeve, and make them both the same length.
Left to his own devices, he may just make them too long, knowing that no one cares. If so, it is infinitely easier to shorten, than to lengthen the sleeves.
You really have to be firm, but polite, when the jacket is marked for alteration. Have the sleeves measured exactly. The alteration guy will usually fuss that you want them too short. Just tell the salesman that you know the amount of cuff that you want to show, and if that isn't possible, you will take a pass on the suit. That always works.
Look at the BB models. Their sleeves are almost always the proper length, Makes a huge difference in the way the jacket looks.
As has been observed elsewhere, the Ben Silver catalogues always have the sleeves too long. They want to put these back in stock, and don't want to have them altered, or even pinned during the catalogue shoot. Prenner knows that few pay any attention to sleeve length.
One more thing that makes a huge difference. When you have the jacket altered, tell the tailor to put Wigan in the sleeve cuffs. This is the canvas material that makes the cuff hang well. Without Wigan, the cuff begins to roll, over time.
It shouldn't cost anything, and most rtw jackets come without Wigan, since the sleeves will have to be altered, and few will insist on it, (or know what it is).
Well said, dfloyd ! Guys that don't post here, don't know, or care, and think that the alteration guy knows best. Notice the jacket sleeves that you see today. If you spot one that shows the right amount of cuff on both sleeves, it will be an unusual day.
An excellent post that describes a problem that makes all of the difference in how a jacket looks, when worn.
With men, the dominant arm is about 1/2" longer, because the tendons get stretched out form swinging a tennis racket, etc.
The only solution, is to have the jacket measured during the fitting, so that the distance from the tip of the thumb to the edge of the cuff is exactly the same, on both arms. (Usually about 5 1/4").
Problems:
1.Most guys don't know , or care what the exact measurement is, and leave it up to the fitter. Big mistake.
2.The guy in the alteration department wants to get you out of the door with minimum effort, in most cases. He may measure one sleeve, and make them both the same length.
Left to his own devices, he may just make them too long, knowing that no one cares. If so, it is infinitely easier to shorten, than to lengthen the sleeves.
You really have to be firm, but polite, when the jacket is marked for alteration. Have the sleeves measured exactly. The alteration guy will usually fuss that you want them too short. Just tell the salesman that you know the amount of cuff that you want to show, and if that isn't possible, you will take a pass on the suit. That always works.
Look at the BB models. Their sleeves are almost always the proper length, Makes a huge difference in the way the jacket looks.
As has been observed elsewhere, the Ben Silver catalogues always have the sleeves too long. They want to put these back in stock, and don't want to have them altered, or even pinned during the catalogue shoot. Prenner knows that few pay any attention to sleeve length.
One more thing that makes a huge difference. When you have the jacket altered, tell the tailor to put Wigan in the sleeve cuffs. This is the canvas material that makes the cuff hang well. Without Wigan, the cuff begins to roll, over time.
It shouldn't cost anything, and most rtw jackets come without Wigan, since the sleeves will have to be altered, and few will insist on it, (or know what it is).
Well said, dfloyd ! Guys that don't post here, don't know, or care, and think that the alteration guy knows best. Notice the jacket sleeves that you see today. If you spot one that shows the right amount of cuff on both sleeves, it will be an unusual day.
Agreed. My right arm is longer (with jacket sleeve as appropriate) and I never have any issues as long as my shirts are long enough.
-spence
Maybe it's just me but for the life of me I fail to see how the length of one's arms has any effect on the amount of shirt sleeve extending beyond the jacket sleeve. For example, wouldn't a 34" shirt sleeve extend 1" beyond a 33" jacket sleeve without regard to arm length? Wouldn't the length of the arm simply determine how much more of the arm extends beyond the shirt sleeve?
Cruiser
Cruiser
I beleive, and those who know more feel free to jump in, that the issue is that the sleeve has to be long enough to allow the cuff to reach the appropriate spot on the heel of the hand and the "length" of the shirt sleeve is then determined by adjusting the cuff *diameter* so that the cuff won't fall below the right spot on the hand. You need some "slack" (not sure of the technical term for it) in the sleeve so that when your arms are outstreteched the cuff won't be pulled back inside the jacket. In a perfect world, it's my understanding (which could be all wrong and probably is) the jacket should be measured off a properly adjusted shirt cuff since measuring off the thumb could give differing results depending on the length of ones fingers. Having said that, I suspect that measuring off the thumb is probably not that far off for most people.
On barrel cuff shirts. the diameter of the cuff can be adjusted to some degree by moving the button(s). Not sure how or if it can be done on French cuff shirts, but I note that the CT shirts have a second hole for the cuff link on the inside of the cuff so that the sleeve length can be slightly tweaked by shortening it about 1/4". I've not seen that on other makers' shirts, but I suppose it could be added if needed.
On barrel cuff shirts. the diameter of the cuff can be adjusted to some degree by moving the button(s). Not sure how or if it can be done on French cuff shirts, but I note that the CT shirts have a second hole for the cuff link on the inside of the cuff so that the sleeve length can be slightly tweaked by shortening it about 1/4". I've not seen that on other makers' shirts, but I suppose it could be added if needed.
Shoulder + Arm?
I used to have a similar problem, but not as pronounced. One shoulder was less developed than the other, so I worked it up and the problem has mostly disappeared (there's still a 1/2" difference, nothing big).
Check your over all measurements, and then go forth eliminating the possibilities.
I used to have a similar problem, but not as pronounced. One shoulder was less developed than the other, so I worked it up and the problem has mostly disappeared (there's still a 1/2" difference, nothing big).
Check your over all measurements, and then go forth eliminating the possibilities.
First of all, I am very particular about sleeve length...
I have found that most Jermyn street shirtmakers do not precisely make all rtw shirts with the same sleeve length. Wearing only French cuffs, I find that a 1/2" inch difference in arm length is very noticeable. Therefore, I have all my sleeves shortened to the required length by buying a longer than required sleeve length. I suspect the length wouldn't be as
perceptible if I wore button cuffs.
Now, with a BB Regent db, the surgeon's cuffs being the wrong length are very noticeable, even if the difference between the right and left sleeve is only 1/2". The BB fitter was told how I wanted the cuffs, and I was charged $100 for the working button holes. If you are going to offer a service and charge for it, that service should be executed perfectly. I'm not going to insist that they eatthe suit (at least not this time), but the store manager will be made aware of the lackadaisical attitude of the fitter. I should have realized the kind of person I was dealing with, since the fitter clothes fit him rather poorly.
I have found that most Jermyn street shirtmakers do not precisely make all rtw shirts with the same sleeve length. Wearing only French cuffs, I find that a 1/2" inch difference in arm length is very noticeable. Therefore, I have all my sleeves shortened to the required length by buying a longer than required sleeve length. I suspect the length wouldn't be as
perceptible if I wore button cuffs.
Now, with a BB Regent db, the surgeon's cuffs being the wrong length are very noticeable, even if the difference between the right and left sleeve is only 1/2". The BB fitter was told how I wanted the cuffs, and I was charged $100 for the working button holes. If you are going to offer a service and charge for it, that service should be executed perfectly. I'm not going to insist that they eatthe suit (at least not this time), but the store manager will be made aware of the lackadaisical attitude of the fitter. I should have realized the kind of person I was dealing with, since the fitter clothes fit him rather poorly.
Right arm: 1/2 - 1"
Left arm: 1 1/2 - 2 1/2"
in both arms more is showing the closer you get to the cufflink.
More specifics: This Forsyth of Canada shirt is marked "34/35".
When I stretch out the arms to play the piano, up to 2 more inches show on each arm. When I let my arms hang down to my sides, the jacket sleeve is getting stuck at the left cuff and I have to shake my arm to allow it to slide downward.
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