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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gentlemen, we have to confront the elephant in the room which is that our preferred mode of dressing is increasingly anachronistic in a world of sweatpants, hoodies, and crocs. Perhaps if we are retired and our biological age is close to how long it's been since the heyday of the Ivy League Look, this is less of a concern. But for younger working age folks we face both situations where we'd like to stand out and where we'd like to blend in. Without capitulating to athleisure or skin-tight Italian caricatures, I think these are some concessions we can make that allow us to wear our favorite "trad" items as much as possible, while not standing out too much or be considered over-dressed by the hoi polloi.

The idea of "high/low" (which I read about from Simon Crompton) is purposely mixing items of different formalities. Presumably the original intent is to evince a certain cool/aristocratic nonchalance. But used differently, this can confuse the sartorially uninitiated and minimize getting asked "Dressed up for an interview?" when all we got is a striped oxford shirt and tucked in khakis. I find we can still preserve the Ivy uniform, if we substitute one piece for a decidedly working class (workwear) or athletic garment.

Jeans: As much rise as possible, and legs should be straight or fuller. Better if selvedge, as it is just a scooch more tasteful. With this you can wear with the dressiest shirt, sweater, overcoat, and even sport coat. You'd still be considered well-dressed in this day and age, but a bit more "normal". The tricky thing is so many shirts, sweaters, and blazers come in shades of blue or green, which IMO doesn't offer enough contrast with the pants. But on the other hand this allows for red, yellow, beige, pink tops to be worn with more frequency.

Patagonia fleece vest: Let's face it. Just a shirt tucked into proper slacks, or with a saddle-shouldered sweaters is considered old-fashioned and stuffy in 2022. A zip vest kills that sense by more than a half. If it allows me to look more normal taking out the trash or getting the mail, then Midtown Banker overtones be damned.

Rugby shirt: Good overall, but let's face it, not seen too often these days, and can be considered "weird" by the masses.

Western shirt: Theoretically a good choice to dress down an otherwise formal(er) outfit, but I don't own one at the moment. So can't speak from lived experience.

Zipper coats: Baracutas, Barbours, Filsons: I'll take them over Canada Goose and North Face any day. Also the Vietnam army field jacket (M-67?) when worn with otherwise formal ensemble (I think this is one of Simon Crompton's original examples) Truth be told they are getting rarer by the day, but they are the best I can come up with.

Ball cap (3 seasons) or beanie (winter): Not only casual and common, but handy if you can't be bothered to apply hair product during these WFH times.

Hawaiian shirts: I like popovers with button down collars, but this option seems to be summer-specific. Ditto tennis shirts and shorts.

Footwear: This is tricky if we wish to be traditional all the time (I say no running shoes unless actually running). I think suede is generally better than shiny (because if you have say calfskin you brush often and polish periodically right? that gives luster that sadly sticks out in 2022). I'm partial to dirty bucks (can look like white/beige tennis shoes from a distance), low-contrast saddle shoes entirely in suede or nubuck (easier maintenance is a plus too). Blue suede comes in handy with darker trousers. Not to leave out boat shoes, Bean blucher mocs, loafers and the ilk. Wear LL Bean hunting shoes whenever it's wet enough (they are comfy too with thick socks). Perhaps the Red Wing Moc Toe boot is also a good idea? But I doubt it, and I'm not interested in adding it to my collection.
To be honest it's hard not to stand out when others are wearing Nikes, crocs, flip flops, and lumberjack boots. But I think my choices above beat cordovan longwings and captoes, and hopefully people don't look down as often.

So these are just some thoughts in no particular order about strategies to ensure we can still wear heydey Ivy League clothes as often as we can, and not look too outlandish when "out and about" in public in 2022. Feel free to engage, flame, or glorify
 

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Gentlemen, we have to confront the elephant in the room which is that our preferred mode of dressing is increasingly anachronistic in a world of sweatpants, hoodies, and crocs. Perhaps if we are retired and our biological age is close to how long it's been since the heyday of the Ivy League Look, this is less of a concern. But for younger working age folks we face both situations where we'd like to stand out and where we'd like to blend in. Without capitulating to athleisure or skin-tight Italian caricatures, I think these are some concessions we can make that allow us to wear our favorite "trad" items as much as possible, while not standing out too much or be considered over-dressed by the hoi polloi.

The idea of "high/low" (which I read about from Simon Crompton) is purposely mixing items of different formalities. Presumably the original intent is to evince a certain cool/aristocratic nonchalance. But used differently, this can confuse the sartorially uninitiated and minimize getting asked "Dressed up for an interview?" when all we got is a striped oxford shirt and tucked in khakis. I find we can still preserve the Ivy uniform, if we substitute one piece for a decidedly working class (workwear) or athletic garment.

Jeans: As much rise as possible, and legs should be straight or fuller. Better if selvedge, as it is just a scooch more tasteful. With this you can wear with the dressiest shirt, sweater, overcoat, and even sport coat. You'd still be considered well-dressed in this day and age, but a bit more "normal". The tricky thing is so many shirts, sweaters, and blazers come in shades of blue or green, which IMO doesn't offer enough contrast with the pants. But on the other hand this allows for red, yellow, beige, pink tops to be worn with more frequency.

Patagonia fleece vest: Let's face it. Just a shirt tucked into proper slacks, or with a saddle-shouldered sweaters is considered old-fashioned and stuffy in 2022. A zip vest kills that sense by more than a half. If it allows me to look more normal taking out the trash or getting the mail, then Midtown Banker overtones be damned.

Rugby shirt: Good overall, but let's face it, not seen too often these days, and can be considered "weird" by the masses.

Western shirt: Theoretically a good choice to dress down an otherwise formal(er) outfit, but I don't own one at the moment. So can't speak from lived experience.

Zipper coats: Baracutas, Barbours, Filsons: I'll take them over Canada Goose and North Face any day. Also the Vietnam army field jacket (M-67?) when worn with otherwise formal ensemble (I think this is one of Simon Crompton's original examples) Truth be told they are getting rarer by the day, but they are the best I can come up with.

Ball cap (3 seasons) or beanie (winter): Not only casual and common, but handy if you can't be bothered to apply hair product during these WFH times.

Hawaiian shirts: I like popovers with button down collars, but this option seems to be summer-specific. Ditto tennis shirts and shorts.

Footwear: This is tricky if we wish to be traditional all the time (I say no running shoes unless actually running). I think suede is generally better than shiny (because if you have say calfskin you brush often and polish periodically right? that gives luster that sadly sticks out in 2022). I'm partial to dirty bucks (can look like white/beige tennis shoes from a distance), low-contrast saddle shoes entirely in suede or nubuck (easier maintenance is a plus too). Blue suede comes in handy with darker trousers. Not to leave out boat shoes, Bean blucher mocs, loafers and the ilk. Wear LL Bean hunting shoes whenever it's wet enough (they are comfy too with thick socks). Perhaps the Red Wing Moc Toe boot is also a good idea? But I doubt it, and I'm not interested in adding it to my collection.
To be honest it's hard not to stand out when others are wearing Nikes, crocs, flip flops, and lumberjack boots. But I think my choices above beat cordovan longwings and captoes, and hopefully people don't look down as often.

So these are just some thoughts in no particular order about strategies to ensure we can still wear heydey Ivy League clothes as often as we can, and not look too outlandish when "out and about" in public in 2022. Feel free to engage, flame, or glorify
Some interesting thoughts and I like the overall concept that you're exploring here, but I unless I missed something, this seems to be a bit too general. It may be of more value to list the various categories of dress and then determine the desired additions/deletions. One of the problems with the way many men dress today is that they fail to make distinctions, i.e., they wear essentially the same thing for nearly all occasions. Some specific categories to consider:
  • corporate work environment
  • business casual environment
  • dinner at upscale restaurant
  • dinner at casual local restaurant
  • attending elevated performances (plays, musicals, concerts, etc.)
  • attending casual social events (movies, school shows, ball games, etc.)
  • attending special occasions (weddings, graduations, etc.)
  • relaxed gatherings of friends at someone's home
  • running errands
  • relaxing at home during the day (where one might have interaction with others)
  • being in bum mode (where there's no expectation of seeing anyone)
I'm not implying that I dress differently for each instance above. Rather, I will dress similarly for a bunch of the above categories, but very differently for others. What I wear for dinner at upscale restaurants and elevated performances is different from what I wear for a casual get-together with friends and attending school shows. Maybe we can generalize by labeling the categories a) well dressed, b) smart casual, c) casual and d) very casual and then see how each can be tweaked, if at all?
 

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I'm lazy and I like posting pictures. To that, I think that's pretty much been Jerrod's goal since day one.

Not sure why his IG post doesn't embed below.
http://instagr.am/p/CcLWEsBLBpb/

I like what this guy does.



Rugged Ivy
 

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As usual, Tiger is right on point. "The failure to make distinctions." I don't think hybrid dressing makes much sense. A crude analogy, wearing sneakers with a tailored dinner suit, but,
it seems to be an awkward trend. Seems to be a favored look of some of the less than sartorially educated elite persona , Just one example.
Why keep complicating such basics of good taste?
Tiger, love your "bum mode" when the only person I plan on seeing is my landscaper when I pay him, who couldn't give a fat rat's arse when I pay him.
Cheers.
 

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As usual, Tiger is right on point. "The failure to make distinctions." I don't think hybrid dressing makes much sense. A crude analogy, wearing sneakers with a tailored dinner suit, but,
it seems to be an awkward trend. Seems to be a favored look of some of the less than sartorially educated elite persona , Just one example.
Why keep complicating such basics of good taste?
Tiger, love your "bum mode" when the only person I plan on seeing is my landscaper when I pay him, who couldn't give a fat rat's arse when I pay him.
Cheers.
Hybrid dressing takes skill, but knowing silhouettes and having coherence is a starting point.

A lot of this is only trad inspired and borderline streetwear, but that works for me.

J. Press' x Todd Snyder is a good example.




I also dig what Kanye did years ago, it feels relevant today. Polo coats are great for dressing up or down, the hoodie helps take up visual space, and both have a consistent slouch factor.


For sneakers, I personally stick to the German Army Trainer (GAT). It's one of few sneakers that looks better the more it gets beat up. Others here might like it as well

 

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I'm lazy and I like posting pictures. To that, I think that's pretty much been Jerrod's goal since day one.

Not sure why his IG post doesn't embed below.
http://instagr.am/p/CcLWEsBLBpb/

I like what this guy does.



Rugged Ivy
Just goes to show how out of touch I am. Are these examples of decent dress? Crossover? Upgraded /updated slobwear? Hybrid accepted dress????????????????
I guess...............
 

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Just goes to show how out of touch I am. Are these examples of decent dress? Crossover? Upgraded /updated slobwear? Hybrid accepted dress????????????????
I guess...............
If it's not for you, it's not for you!

Personally, I'm not strict trad. I only take inspiration from trad looks, so all of this works for me.

To me, it's just Rugged Ivy. Not new, but more relevant than ever IMO.
 

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I'm lazy and I like posting pictures. To that, I think that's pretty much been Jerrod's goal since day one.

Not sure why his IG post doesn't embed below.
http://instagr.am/p/CcLWEsBLBpb/

I like what this guy does.



Rugged Ivy
Just goes to show how out of touch I am. Are these examples of decent dress? Crossover? Upgraded /updated slobwear? Hybrid accepted dress????????????????
I guess...............
 

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As usual, Tiger is right on point. "The failure to make distinctions." I don't think hybrid dressing makes much sense. A crude analogy, wearing sneakers with a tailored dinner suit, but,
it seems to be an awkward trend. Seems to be a favored look of some of the less than sartorially educated elite persona , Just one example.
Why keep complicating such basics of good taste?
Tiger, love your "bum mode" when the only person I plan on seeing is my landscaper when I pay him, who couldn't give a fat rat's arse when I pay him.
Cheers.
Thank you for your very kind words, EclecticSr.!
 

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I guess in the short decade since I joined, what I once thought this forum was about, fine dressing ,,,,,,,has evolved......... I have no bones about my. opinions be they political or
things sartorial. Perhaps there should be a seperate catagories to the forum. eg. slobwear / hybrid wear. Then, fine dressing as a seperate catagory.
I'm sure many would pick the catagory of their choice to post on, seems very diplomatic, does it not?????

It has been a while since I have posted and I guess if ever I post again.
Thank you for your very kind words, EclecticSr.!
Thank you for your very kind words, EclecticSr.!
Thank you for your very kind words, EclecticSr.!
Thank you for your very kind words, EclecticSr.!
Thank you for your very kind words, EclecticSr.!
Thank you for your very kind words, EclecticSr.!
Thank you for your very kind words, EclecticSr.!
I don'tn know what happened here with this repative post but you are more than welcome.
Wish i had your knowledge and ability to express in words that you have.
thank you.
 

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I guess in the short decade since I joined, what I once thought this forum was about, fine dressing ,,,,,,,has evolved......... I have no bones about my. opinions be they political or
things sartorial. Perhaps there should be a seperate catagories to the forum. eg. slobwear / hybrid wear. Then, fine dressing as a seperate catagory.
I'm sure many would pick the catagory of their choice to post on, seems very diplomatic, does it not?????

It has been a while since I have posted and I guess if ever I post again.








I don'tn know what happened here with this repative post but you are more than welcome.
Wish i had your knowledge and ability to express in words that you have.
thank you.
That repetition stuff was very strange. I am grateful for your kindness, but not enough to repeat myself a half dozen times!:)
 

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I guess in the short decade since I joined, what I once thought this forum was about, fine dressing ,,,,,,,has evolved......... I have no bones about my. opinions be they political or
things sartorial. Perhaps there should be a seperate catagories to the forum. eg. slobwear / hybrid wear. Then, fine dressing as a seperate catagory.
I'm sure many would pick the catagory of their choice to post on, seems very diplomatic, does it not?????

It has been a while since I have posted and I guess if ever I post again.
The bolded touches on an important point.

There's what, 15 regulars at best on the Trad forum?

Slobwear is obviously not a diplomatic category or sub-forum, why would anyone want to post there?

Splitting an already tiny community is not a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Some interesting thoughts and I like the overall concept that you're exploring here, but I unless I missed something, this seems to be a bit too general. It may be of more value to list the various categories of dress and then determine the desired additions/deletions. One of the problems with the way many men dress today is that they fail to make distinctions, i.e., they wear essentially the same thing for nearly all occasions. Some specific categories to consider:
  • corporate work environment
  • business casual environment
  • dinner at upscale restaurant
  • dinner at casual local restaurant
  • attending elevated performances (plays, musicals, concerts, etc.)
  • attending casual social events (movies, school shows, ball games, etc.)
  • attending special occasions (weddings, graduations, etc.)
  • relaxed gatherings of friends at someone's home
  • running errands
  • relaxing at home during the day (where one might have interaction with others)
  • being in bum mode (where there's no expectation of seeing anyone)
I'm not implying that I dress differently for each instance above. Rather, I will dress similarly for a bunch of the above categories, but very differently for others.
Good points here for highlighting the different types of social occasions. A main attraction of the Ivy League style is that it straddles multiple formality levels so well. (That is, until recently when slobby is the trend.) I don't know much about you, but I'd rather not have to change clothes between work, home, errands, dinner etc.

And the focus of my OP is on what can we do during informal occasions (which are ever-multiplying in 2022), so that we can still wear our favorite Ivy items as much as possible. If you are dining in an upscale restaurant, attending opening night at the opera, giving away the bride etc., then obviously this post does not apply. Cherish the chance to dress up and not stick out from the social milieu! I think we agree that short of being maitre d' or a security guard, such formal occasions are fleeting in 2022.

What I wear for dinner at upscale restaurants and elevated performances is different from what I wear for a casual get-together with friends and attending school shows. Maybe we can generalize by labeling the categories a) well dressed, b) smart casual, c) casual and d) very casual and then see how each can be tweaked, if at all?
Personally to me this is rather fussy. Do you really keep so many mental categories in your head all the time? Me, I just want to throw on the basic cuffed slacks, button-down collar shirt, sweater if it's chilly, and go about my day. Obviously special occasions that necessitate dressing up are an important exception, but other than that I wish to de-clutter my routine and not over-think clothes.
 

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The bolded touches on an important point.

There's what, 15 regulars at best on the Trad forum?

Slobwear is obviously not a diplomatic category or sub-forum, why would anyone want to post there?

Splitting an already tiny community is not a good idea.
Any guess as to what has caused the splitting of a tiny cmmunity is? Tiny comunity still being further splintered by the intrusion of a wedge of nevous
Good points here for highlighting the different types of social occasions. A main attraction of the Ivy League style is that it straddles multiple formality levels so well. (That is, until recently when slobby is the trend.) I don't know much about you, but I'd rather not have to change clothes between work, home, errands, dinner etc.

And the focus of my OP is on what can we do during informal occasions (which are ever-multiplying in 2022), so that we can still wear our favorite Ivy items as much as possible. If you are dining in an upscale restaurant, attending opening night at the opera, giving away the bride etc., then obviously this post does not apply. Cherish the chance to dress up and not stick out from the social milieu! I think we agree that short of being maitre d' or a security guard, such formal occasions are fleeting in 2022.



Personally to me this is rather fussy. Do you really keep so many mental categories in your head all the time? Me, I just want to throw on the basic cuffed slacks, button-down collar shirt, sweater if it's chilly, and go about my day. Obviously special occasions that necessitate dressing up are an important exception, but other than that I wish to de-clutter my routine and not over-think clothes.
Really? You who started all this fuss? Want to declutter all this fuss? Read your opening PO .Rather a lenghty opening post.
 

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I fid this rather amussing. Op starts a lenghty post about, I'll call it hyrid dressing. Then complains, the responses ar all too fussy?????
Some chime in defending his position. Others, myself included challenge that premise. he now declares again, responses all too fussy?

Yeah, how fussy is a multi pragraph opening query into the subject is?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I fid this rather amussing. Op starts a lenghty post about, I'll call it hyrid dressing. Then complains, the responses ar all too fussy?????
Some chime in defending his position. Others, myself included challenge that premise. he now declares again, responses all too fussy?

Yeah, how fussy is a multi pragraph opening query into the subject is?
TBH haven't even read your response in detail. And doubt you did mine, since nowhere I said sneakers for anything other than athletics is kosher.

But to this post directly, ever heard of introspection? Personal musings? I think the OP was like 3 martinis in, which let me reflect on the current state of "slobwear" as you call it. Or maybe you'd prefer I didn't post so we can deal with the tumbleweeds on this forum?
 

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Good points here for highlighting the different types of social occasions. A main attraction of the Ivy League style is that it straddles multiple formality levels so well. (That is, until recently when slobby is the trend.) I don't know much about you, but I'd rather not have to change clothes between work, home, errands, dinner etc.

And the focus of my OP is on what can we do during informal occasions (which are ever-multiplying in 2022), so that we can still wear our favorite Ivy items as much as possible. If you are dining in an upscale restaurant, attending opening night at the opera, giving away the bride etc., then obviously this post does not apply. Cherish the chance to dress up and not stick out from the social milieu! I think we agree that short of being maitre d' or a security guard, such formal occasions are fleeting in 2022.



Personally to me this is rather fussy. Do you really keep so many mental categories in your head all the time? Me, I just want to throw on the basic cuffed slacks, button-down collar shirt, sweater if it's chilly, and go about my day. Obviously special occasions that necessitate dressing up are an important exception, but other than that I wish to de-clutter my routine and not over-think clothes.
Maybe I wasn't as clear as I could've been. I'm not changing multiple times per day; typically, I get dressed for the focal activity of the day. Sometimes changing clothing is unavoidable - a casual evening out on a work day means a change in attire, agreed? I'm not going out for pizza in a business suit! If I'm running errands in the morning on a rainy day, I'm going to wear something a bit better for an evening with friends. If I'm home all day lounging, I will wear something different if my wife and I go out - anywhere. Make sense?

You wrote, "I'd rather not have to change clothes between work, home, errands, dinner etc." - that appears to mean that you're essentially wearing the same thing for most events in a typical day. In my view, that will invariably lead to you being either overdressed or underdressed, depending on which part of the day's activities you're doing. One size fits all usually doesn't.

I don't keep "mental categories" at all, nor do I "over-think clothes." I simply try to dress in an appropriate manner for whatever it is I'm engaged in. Isn't that a basic thing to do? I don't wear sport coats and ties at barbecues, nor do I wear boat shoes and rolled up OCBDs for business wear. Avoid extremes, and simply dress appropriately for the activity. I think the trick is knowing what constitutes "dressing appropriately." At one time, sites such as AAAC was a resource for that. I hope it will remain so, and not become a place of compromise and synthesis to the point where little matters.

P.S. - Anyone remember Cruiser?
 
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