Shirt cotton seems to be graded by thread count, if I have the concept right here--ranging from less than 100 (80's) up to 200's. (I understand that wool is similarly graded, but my interest here is in the cotton that goes into good dress shirts.) Can some of you experts educate us about what one gains in going from a lower count (say 80's) to a higher count. I assume that the cotton is softer the higher the count. Is it also smoother? Thicker or thinner? Yield brighter colors? At what point does the cotton in a shirt yield a truly great garment (assuming that all other factors are present, such as workmanship)? Or can we relate thread count to quality in a linear fashion at all? I notice that with some of the MTM shirt companies, there is quite a difference in price between shirts made with 140's versus those made of 200's. Is the difference in quality worth it? Finally, a small (and perhaps trivial!) point: Why is there an apostrophe in the designation? As in 120's. It seems somewhat odd. Why not simply 120?