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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This item may not exactly be "trad," but I would like some feedback on this purchase I made.

I've been seeking a classic 2B navy blue blazer for a while. I've never owned one and really need this staple as I'm assembling a proper wardrobe.

Yesterday, I spotted this one on eBay:



The measurements are pretty close, and from what I've read here and elsewhere, Hickey Freeman is known to produce solid, reliable-quality items. I asked the seller twice about the shoulder measurement. The response I received was it is 19" from the back, 18" from the front. There is a 14-day return policy, which gives me some measure of security in this purchase.

I negotiated the price down to $115 from $199 before pulling the trigger.

I hope this ends up being a solid purchase. I welcome your thoughts.

Cheers, Jeff
 

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Hi Jeff,
I like the buttons a lot. All the proportions seem classic.

BUT, this particular HF is from the LTD line. This line was made for department stores and is a solid step down from the mainline hickey everyone loves so much.

At $199 this would be a horrible deal.

At $100 or less, AND if it fits great OTR then it's a decent value.

Just my $.02
 

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I like the buttons, too. But I think you could have gotten more for less. Here are two darted, two button blazers I found poking around on eBay. The first is Southwick for Paul Stuart and might be a little small for 40R. The second is BB, perhaps for Brooksgate. Both are under $50.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I saw both of those eBay items as well. The Southwick is way too small in the shoulders. I actually purchased that BB blazer. It had a moth hole in the back of a sleeve and some shoddy stitching where it joined at the shoulder. I was very disappointed and returned it for a refund.
 

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What a drag. Still, 40R is a pretty common size. I maintain that you should be able to find something great. I stalked ebay for about 4 months to find a green blazer in 38; navy is a decidedly easier prospect.

How about this one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What a drag. Still, 40R is a pretty common size. I maintain that you should be able to find something great. I stalked ebay for about 4 months to find a green blazer in 38; navy is a decidedly easier prospect.

How about this one?
Thanks for the referral. I've not heard of this "Carmelo Occhino" maker. It like it has a nasty stain on the interior lining and it appears to need repair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It's tough to learn that I might have been burned before even receiving this blazer in the mail. At least I can get a refund if it's unsatisfactory. Perhaps I'll bite the bullet and just get a brand new one soon. I know that BB is having a 25% off deal starting May 8. I'm still hoping to get a very good deal on a high-quality, gently used one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi Jeff,
I like the buttons a lot. All the proportions seem classic.

BUT, this particular HF is from the LTD line. This line was made for department stores and is a solid step down from the mainline hickey everyone loves so much.

At $199 this would be a horrible deal.

At $100 or less, AND if it fits great OTR then it's a decent value.

Just my $.02
For future reference, how can one tell that this HF is from its department store line?
 

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For future reference, how can one tell that this HF is from its department store line?
You just have to know I guess.

Back in the glory days, I'm guessing Pre 1990, just a guess, ALL of Hickeys offerings were pretty stellar.

Then came along the diffused, less expensive lines, of which LtD is one.

As a general rule, any suit model ( number on tag ) that begins with an AB or C is a mainline.

Examples would be Addison, boardroom and Canterbury. These all have different fits with the Boardroom being the classic full American and most popular ( although I prefer the Addison and Canterbury myself).

Those names have now changed and been replaced by either series or other names that begin with AB or C. A mahogany collection B suit with New Zealand merino is still a wonderful suit.

A "Lindsey" model which can be found at gilt and the rack and off 5th etc is along the lines of the LTD model you ordered.

I know it's confusing but just soak it in. You'll learn.
 

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I think that for $115 you did all right. At the very least, it's a recent model; keep in mind that many HF offerings on ebay are quite dated.

​There's an easy way to tell the difference between fully canvassed HF vs their lesser model: the tags on full fledged HF are sewn in a crisscross pattern whereas the diffusion lines are sewn in a "V" pattern.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I think that for $115 you did all right. At the very least, it's a recent model; keep in mind that many HF offerings on ebay are quite dated.

There's an easy way to tell the difference between fully canvassed HF vs their lesser model: the tags on full fledged HF are sewn in a crisscross pattern whereas the diffusion lines are sewn in a "V" pattern.
I see what you mean about the sewing pattern on the tag. So, what are the differences between the desirable HF and the "lesser" HF? I'm not sure what canvassing is or why that's desirable? Does anyone have a quick and dirty explanation?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Received the blazer today. Unfortunately, it's too big in the shoulders (19") and chest (44"). It also has too much shoulder padding for my taste. The measurements lead me to think that it might have possibly been mis-labeled a 40R. Ah well, at least I can get a refund and I'm only out shipping charges.
 

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